fukkeneh240
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Posts posted by fukkeneh240
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There are actually marks on the shaft/gear you are supposed to line up (details in FSM). I think it is supposed to start out so that the rotor is pointing further to the right of the #1 position, because it rotates when you install it and the gears engage.
But you really need a timing light at this point... even once you install the distributor on the right tooth, you should rotate it to achieve 15 degrees BTDC (once it's warmed up).
I haven't had the time to work on the car today, but I remember for my 240SX, it stated some where in the FSM about it, but for the life of me I can not find it in the Pathfinder FSM. The only thing for the distributor is on EC-17.
Sorry to sound more complicated, but when you say to the right #1, you mean between plugs 1 and 6?
EDIT: haha.. 5 min after posting this, I found it in the FSM. EM-32.
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Hi everyone,
I searched, but can't find my exact answer.
For a 1997 Pathfinder.
I just replaced the valve/rocker cover gaskets and removed the distributor to do so. I then decided to do the timing and accessory belts, but did not put the distributor back in after the valve cover gasket replacement. I did the timing belt and put everything back in, but the distributor went in last. I cranked the engine but it now runs rough unless I adjust the distributor all the way to the left (towards the front of the vehicle). I am thinking I am off a tooth when installed the distributor.
So my question is, do I remove the distributor, put the engine at TDC, and reinsert the distributor making sure the brush/rotor is at spark plug No. 1?
If not, is there another way to align the distributor in the correct position?
Thanks.
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Yup, the housings have adjustment screws. When I installed new bulbs in the '98 I parked about 10 ft from the garage door with the headlights on. Using the pattern on the garage door and a tape measure I adjusted them accordingly. Then I reversed down the driveway to make sure the light dispersed properly at a distance. It took about 15 mins to make it work.
i have a question. i don't know if i need to adjust my headlights or not, but i have about 7 to 10 feet of darkness in front of me before the light hits the ground. it's very distinct line between the darkness and light.
is that normal or should i have to readjust the beams?? looking at other cars the lights begin right in front of their vehicles. but i'm thinking it's just because i'm "higher up" and other suvs run fog lights while they drive...
any info is great.
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ive seen a 2jz in a miata. so it would fit, but how much money you willing to spend?
sr in a pathy? again how much money or time you have to fab that up, esp if you want a working 4x4.
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which le rims? mine are only 16 and i have 265/70/16, which is "almost" similar to a 265/65/17. i have no problems with rubbing.
some old pics with my blown struts and shocks, so the car sits a tad bit higher now. but everything else is stock.
but yeah, i dont think a tire place will unless you know someone that works at a place with some old tires laying around.
EDIT: actually, using http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html my 265/70/16 is slightly (talking minuscule here) bigger then 265/65/17.
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for difs, use differential gear oil. use your choice, perhaps a 75W.
for transfers, the FSM says DEXRON A/T fluid.
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fixed. when i took out the cv, the cap at the final drive end was dented out at the centre, so i guess the axles were not joined together deep enough.
put the new one in and drives like a dream. man i love the kyb gr2's.
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just an update. after work yesterday i inspected the everything, nothing was rubbing. I tried to shake the wheel and tugged and pushed on whatever i could, but everything was firm. then I took out the cv axle. everything again appeared fine and then i re-installed the old axle and everything else. went for a drive and that UR UR UR UR UR sound went away BUT that thud thud thud sound is still there. it's not so bad when i make left turns. but right turns and going straight it's kinda loud thud thud thud noise.
my dad said its probable the axle, so today (if it doesnt rain) im going to replace the axle with a new one and see how that goes.. man
on a weird note, when i bolt the axle onto the final drive, i can easily turn the cv axle when about 4 bolts are screwed in, BUT when i bolt the last two, the cv axle becomes more difficult to turn. iono...
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How quickly we forget. Personally I think gas should be $10/gal, but i remember paying $4.50 in Dallas not too long ago. I use 87 octane because my engine is out of warranty and runs fine on it. I haven't been able to detect a difference in mileage on higher octane. You should run the cheapest gas your engine doesn't knock on. You can test higher octane, because your engine might run a more advanced ignition curve that would result in better mileage. If you are paying 10 cents more on $2/gal gas, you need to get 5% better mileage to make the expense of higher octane worth it.
I think fuel additives are expensive junk that at best don't do anything. Not sure what you mean by synthetic (unless you are talking about oil). I do run 0-30 Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil with 10k filter changes and 20k oil and filter changes. And I am eventually going to get the synthetic oil in the tranny, diffs, and TC. I might see a tiny improvement in fuel economy with this.
$1.009/litre in Vancouver right now.. so that is almost $4/gal in CAD... with conversion i would guess roughly $3.60 ish in USD. anyhoo, i just use 87 for my vg33. i think you vq guys "require" 91. 93 up here is about 11 to 15 cents more per litre.
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It would be a good one if it ends up being this....
haha. definately not a rock. i bought the cv axle just in case. if i dont use i can return. but i think i will just reinspect everything.
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Hmmm. I guess you replaced the axle while you had the knuckle unbolted from the strut, right? Are you sure you reassembled the outer CV joint correctly when you put on the new boot?
One way to tell if it's the CV axle or something else causing your noise is to remove the drive flanges from both front wheels (so that the front axles don't rotate with the wheels). If the noise goes away, then the problem is likely the CV axle. Perhaps the outer joint is worn because the boot was cracked and the joint lost too much grease.
yeah i had the knuckle unbolted. I didn't loose that much grease. it split while i was changing the strut and when i took off the boot, about 98% was still there.
so would you think from the method i used to take out the axle from the bearing/rotor that the bearing is fine. if its just the CV, i may as well install a new one as they are only $100 new.
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Just curious to know: how did you "slide out the CV axle"? Did you make sure the seals and bushings were properly replaced?
well after i removed the outermost snap ring, pretty much tapped the axle a bit (like it states in the FSM page FA-17) and the rest just slid out. seals and bushings? i did not take apart the bearing. the thrust washer was on the correct way.
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Did you loosen the bearing locknut @ any point during the strut/cv boot install?
the wheel bearing lock nut? no. just slid out the cv axle, disassembled cv to put on new boot, reassembled, and then slid the cv back into the caliper/bearing.
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One of my outer cv boot clamps fell off so i put a new one on and the crimped part was too high which caused it to hit the ball joint area every revolution. I hammered it down and no more noise.
there is no excess metal from the clamp.
i dont think i could have damaged the cv axle unless the R50 axle are supremely weak
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okay just took it for a short spin to drop the misses off at the bus stop, that tick tick tick sound is more like a quiet thud thud thud sound; and that ur ur ur ur sound is ur ur urrrrRRrrr ur ur ur ur then quiet then Urr ur ur ...
haha, sorry for the bad description.
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hello, this is for a 1997 4x4 R50.
sorry, but kinda long. searched but no exact luck.
yesterday i installed new kyb gr2 fronts struts and monroe senstrac rear shocks... anyways while doing the driver side front strut i noticed the outer cv boot was torn. so after i installed all the new components i drove to the parts store to get a new cv boot. side note ... way better drive with the new suspension and none of these problems existed after i installed the new shocks/struts.
so after i get home from the parts store with the new outer cv boot, i installed the new outer cv boot by removing the axle and what not. i reinstalled everything and now i have some kind of light constant thumping/ticking noise when i drive... tick tick tick tick tick kinda sound. the sound is constant no matter if i turn left or right or stopping while driving.
ALSO i get a second LOUD rubbing noise that sounds like the caliper or brake pad is warped or imbalanced and brake pad is hitting a wobbling caliper. not a metal to metal scraping sound but an "UR UR UR UR UR UR UR" kind of sound. this sound goes away when i make a right turn and does not go away during braking.
i took a look at it this morning and noticed that weather/dust shield was bent and making contact with the caliper. straightened the shield, took it for a quick spin, both noises are still there. then inspected the brakes and they seemed fine, even took off the caliper thinking the shims could be off. reinstalled the brakes and took it for a spin and still the same noise.
did i screw up cv axle installation or something? every appears fine and nothing is loose. is there some kind of special way to replace the boot that is model specific for the R50? the old boot was about 6 inches long, and the new boot is about 4 inches.
I did notice that the lower ball joint (i think that is what it is, connects the bottom of the caliper to the suspension arm) was leaking a bit of grease, but my dad said that wouldn't cause the noise. Driving the car feels fine, and only problem is the annoying noise. the best search result i found was repacking of the wheel bearing?? i doubt that would be it though.
any help please?
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hello, this is for the R50's using stock amp and stock speakers.
my systems in my 97 sounded terrible when i bought the car with a crappy nextar head unit in it and the previous owner said it was professionally installed.. well those professionals cut the antenna plugs off instead of buying an adapter. went to the junk yard, found some and soldered them back on to my antenna wires and got a proper adapter
long story short.. wiring is simple and you can use the "remote on" blue with white stripe wire coming off the head unit (mine was a pioneer) to power your amp. sound is crisp and speakers (for stock) perform well.
hope this may help someone else.
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Does anyone have any links, or knowledge on how much different tires may affect gas mileage.
I'm not refering to tire size specifically, as we all know that bigger trucks and bigger tires will eat fuel, what I'm getting at is more along the lines of different manufactures of the same/similar sizes.
Also wondering if load range of a tire would affect mileage too. - ie: higher load range = more rubber = heavier tire?
not exactly what youre looking for... there is this one for different tire sizes and speed... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
I saw one about tire size and how bigger rims/tires affect gas mileage and braking... I'll see if I can find it again.
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Hello,
I am a newb and I searched but nothing for my exact question. but anyways... how soft is the stock suspension supposed to be?
Everytime I go over a speed bump the front end nose dives/bounces a few times and seems a bit soft. But I am not sure if it is supposed to do that or not because it is a heavy vehicle and I know I won't get a car like response. (This is my FIRST SUV) SO what am I suppose to expect for a R50's suspension? Is this normal and supposed to bounce a few time even after I get new struts up front?
Everytime I drive and hit a pot hole or dip in the road I can feel a stuttering like vibration in the front passenger side strut and the vibration up the steering column and at my wheel. closest thread was this http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...0&hl=shocks
both symptoms from previous experience with cars with stock suspension or coilovers tell me that the front struts are blown. But I am not 100% positive because I am not sure if the R50's suspensions are meant to be that soft or not.
Thanks for listening.
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Hi,
I know I am still very new here and in no way am I trying to ruffle any feathers, but can I suggest to the great admin that a "forum suggestion and comments" thread or section be created?
The only reason why I ask is because I wanted to suggest making a "newbie question thread/section" (not just an intro), where newbs like me can ask stupid generic questions after unsuccessful searches, but there was no such section to make this specific request.
Other forums that I am a member of have this section and is a great way to add input on the forum.
If there is already a section like this that I may have missed, please delete this post.
Thank you for your time.
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Hello,
I have been searching for this and I cant see to find the answer... maybe people refer to it by something else?
Since owning my 97 pathy for about two months now, I have been wondering about a thing that looks like an hood alarm pin that is dangling in the front engine bay. I found it on page EL-245 in the 97 FSM and it's called a hood switch. what does it do? mine has been dangling my the cord/harness and doesn't seem to affect my car. the two bolts are there and i can simple re-attach the hood switch, but "if it isn't broken, why fix it?"
any suggestions??
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Some late info...Most Nissans use the antenna as the ground for the radio. The aftermarket harness should have a ground wire coming out of it not attatched, a black wire with a spade terminal on the end. Most aftermarket radios will turn on if you use the factory metal brackets which essentially ground the radio when you screw the brackets in, but not have enough of a good ground to power the internal amp on the radio, or even send a strong enough signal to turn on the factory amp. The diversity antenna is a as stated in earlier posts a seperate am and fm tuner going into one antenna plug, so the antenna adapter and/or a solid other ground for the radio along with the amp turn on lead if you have a factory amp is all you need to do...maybe someone will find this useful in the future
Bringing up an old thread, but oh thank God...
Very helpful.
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Thanks guys.
I might go take a look at this one on Saturday .. http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/ctd/1029311147.html
that pathy is rebuilt status. they posted that ad months ago and now they dont even mention it. make sure you get the papers showing that it was fixed/frame is straight by a reputable shop and not their own garage in the back.
from my research about the 4runner is the head gasket problems. i'd rather change a timing belt then a head gasket.
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In case your curious.. this is my other Nissan Toy... currently just sitting until I miss boost and re-insure it or another happy buyer takes her home.
MY beloved 240 that I am trying to sell
Thanks for looking
Distributor installation
in The Garage
Posted
took a few tries, but it worked. thanks guys.