GreaseMonky81
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Posts posted by GreaseMonky81
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Ok here is my new dilemma, goes along the lines of the lift. I got springs that will work in the back the problem is that when I put them in and the control arms on the front and went to lift it, the control arms bottemed out on the upper bump stops before the thing levled out, I measured before and after and I no have 6" more inches including the body lift. So I decided to use the BJ spacers to see if that helped, and was able to level it out, after reindexing the torsion bars, but now when you put it in 4wd, the tires toe way in and when you turn makes a bad popping/grinding sound from tjhe front not to mention look like it will never be alingnable. Any ideas? I am really starting to get frustrated
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Ok I tried to install the JGC coils and I only got 1/2" of lift whats the trick?
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yeah, they dont make the set up anymore. You might want to go back and grab the torsion bar set up. IIRC it has some sort of quad-bar setup. dont know what else might be on it.
Like quad torsion bars?
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WHAT?! The LKQ on 76th?!
Sorry to thread jack, but that sounds like a score of a Pathfinder!
No its the LKQ in north Portland but I already scored everything from it
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From what Pathfinder? I want in on this!
Its at one of the local wrecking yards
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Longer UCAs for cranking, no BJ spacers.
I looked at the jJim Conner Racing site but did not see any think listed for nissan's. I wonder if i should go back and pull more parts from it, i only grabed the UCA's
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The upper control arms say Jim Conner Racing. Just wondering if any body has ever heard of them
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I ban Nytrosfinder for having a factory light bar, but love the avatar
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Well I picked up tthe lift UCA some JGC springs and the body lift, also a double tube smittybuilt bumper.
But I am still wondering do I want to run the BJ spacers, and the UCA?
The 300zx LSD was gone
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BTW, how does an LSD preform on the front, especially in muddy conditions?
Couldnt tell you I have never had it in the front myself. Hopefully some one can chime in and shed some light on the subject
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It has to be the turbo version.
Zero. The only ratios available on the 300zx were 3.5:1, 3.7:1, and 3.9:1. You will need to have your R&P setup on the LSD carrier. It will run you about $175-$225 just to have the gears setup if you have the diff pulled and take it to a good shop. It's not a straight bolt-up as the side flange lock nut needs to be pressed out of your side gear and then pressed into the LSD side gear.
If it is a 300zx turbo/non-SS from that year range and you decide not to purchase/install it, I would be willing to make you a decent offer. PM me if that's the case.
So basically you run the LSD carier from the 300ZX, and the use my ring and pinion?
What about running the BJ spacers, and UCA
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By decent, I most definitely did NOT mean stock. You need something upgraded. I've killed brand new stock CL's on my first wheeling trip. They simply cannot handle the stresses.
Thats what I am wanting to do but I am trying to do it myself
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Your TRE's are bending because of the worn CL's. Get a decent CL on that thing, and your TRE worries will end. They'll still wear out faster than on a truck that isn't wheeled, but you won't be bending them anymore.
See that sthe problem I did put a decent center link on there and first trip out bent both outers.
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maybe this?
[url=http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22195&st=20&s
Looks like an option but not sure if i like that option
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The 2wd Pathfinder setup is the exact same as the 4wd. 2wd Hardbodys on the other hand are different, but they are also weaker components.
You could probably make gussets on them, but you would have to be carefull not to warp the inside of the ball joint socket. Our TREs are pretty stout when not put in a binding situation (like the one a worn CL causes). Not sure just how fabrication inclined you are, but you could make your own version of the "Hoohaa" CL. All it is is a stock CL with the ball joints removed and replaced with bearings, you then run a bolt through the bearing and pitman on the one end, and a bolt through the bearing and idler arm on the other end. Since there is no pivot to the bearing, the CL stays in a level plane.
I could handle making my own version of a hooha, but i am not sure what size bearing, and what size sleeve for the bearing
one think I have noticed is when I am in 4 wheel, my front tires flop all over the place, side to side mainly and when it does that my tre, seem to bend last night was both outer's
Another kinda of the subject question two pathfinders same year my tre angle, is steeper than his
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Ok I have used the search function and seen that there is options for center link, ie hooha, calmini, but my question is there anything else that can be done, that is a little cheaper, I am great at building things, or welding up stuff, im just very short on cash right now, and am tired of bending tierods everytime I go out I have even changed centerlinks out, stock for stock.
Has anyone considered two wheel drive center links and tierods, there set up different
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They don't, why I pointed out the engine type, my 88 has that bleeder in the hose. The little hose jumps off and runs to a T fitting in one of the heater hoses on the firewall.
Whats the purpose of that hose, the one that runs to the heater hose? Is it just for bleeding purposes?
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Yes thinking about heading up this weekend
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See, we bought you back from the edge, you were thinking you blew the engine, and it was just a simple fan clutch!
Thanks alot guys its all good to go I appreciate it
Hey Kingman do you go to the powerlines much?
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Did you swap out the ECU sending unit, or the guage sending unit? We have 2 different ones on our trucks.
I swapped the gauge sending unit it was the fan now its back to normal thanks for all the help guys.
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X3
Well I robbed the one from my friends to test
and now I am x4 but se will se what happens here in a minute or 2 -
That just dawned on me the fan does not sound louder at all, friend of mine when he first fires his 87 up it sounds like a "frieght train" but then gets quiet the gets louder later min is quiet all the time
The sending unit is new I am tring to swap fan out now, its great having a computer in the garage
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The bleeder is pretty easy to see on an 86.5-89, it is on the upper hose right above the power steering pump, little thumb screw.
Sounds like your fan clutch might have gone bad in the "free spin" range so it isn't spinning when your engine gets hot, where as most will lock up and sound like a frieght train because they are locked in and constantly spinning.
That just dawned on me the fan does not sound louder at all, friend of mine when he first fires his 87 up it sounds like a "frieght train" but then gets quiet the gets louder later min is quiet all the time
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are you sure the thermostat is working? even with air in the system it shouldnt get that hot unless the water isnt circulating.
I am almost positive that it is circulating, its a new one and when I pulled the old one out I did it when it was hot and it was still open.
With it running and cap off water level is right at the top, start it up it fluctuates a little, but them the water level drops and you can see the coolant moving past the neck, so I am pretty sure its opening
87 Pathfinder Lift question
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by GreaseMonky81
The ones I found I am not sure on the thickness they where lift springs from the front of an XJ and before I sat at one height and after it was 3" higher thought it was all good. I know I can no fit 36" IROK's pn the front, but couldnt reall wheel with them