Earth1
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Posts posted by Earth1
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The problem with all the newer trucks is that they are getting so big, that would make the conversion a lot harder I imagine. Even going to the next gen up from my chasis would complicate things. But, you'll probably be rich by then so it won't matter!
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Thanks. Me too with the older trucks. He did simplify things a bit... no bells and whistles on this truck- no AC or power windows, etc. I get to test emisions as an 87 too!
I think a Hardbody conversion would be really cool. If the wheelbase and frame are fairly close it would be doable. When you really think about, there's not much to it... body mounts, front clip, maybe extend the harness and some random wires- just drop the body on it's new home. 2 issues with these conversions might be the tranny hump and hood clearance. Cluster probably was tricky on my truck. Not really anything too big for someone with those fab skills. If you can put a Camaro on a CJ7, you can do anything.
I paid $3500 for it, motor is said to have been rebuilt, new bushings, fluids, etc. I couldn't find a strong running clean body 87 for much less, that wouldn't even touch a 2001. I jumped right on it.
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Nevermind... I've abandoned this idea in favor of a WD21 carrier.
josh
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Thanks anyway guys. I snuck up to one parked on my street and got the measurements I needed. It may just work. I may be putting a WD21 carrier on a 1st gen 4Runner body.
I'm thinking with the carrier, new hinge pins/bushings, zerks and metal I should be able to do this for well under $100- much less than it would cost me to make a carrier arm for my bumper that I might not keep anyway. If I can make it work, I'll post up. Now to find one in decent condition for a good price...
josh
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Welcome Back Earth1, I recall you. I have to ask, do you mean Trader or Traitor??
It's all good. It sounds like you have had a life defining experience and a positive one to boot so proceed as you see fit and don't be a stranger. FYI there are a lot of NPORA members in Colorado (not to mention wheelers) so I'm sure you'll have plenty of trail companions...
B
Uh yeah...
Hopefully Pezzy can merge this name with my old account so I can still be me.
Thank you B! I will definitely keep my eyes over here and rally up some Nissans to wheel with.
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Yep, the builder has done several custom projects and some 40 series Land Cruisers conversions the same way. His concept is that a lot of people like the look of the older Toyotas, so he finds nice old bodies and transplants them onto newer chassis. With a nice shop, a hoist and cheap salvage vehicles, it would be a worthy project. His work is outstanding- I'd highly recommend anyone in the Denver area looking for fab work to check him out. He makes some bada$$ bumpers/etc.
On mine, he removed the body mount gussets from the frame and added new ones to line up with the 87 body. My cluster, steering column/wheel and center console are from the 01, seats are from a 2nd gen (89-95); I've been entertaining the thought of a Tacoma dash swap. I have some light body work to do and paint it first tho. The full factory options are on the wishlist: e-locker, center diff locker, locking hubs and TRD supercharger.
I have to tell you it is a blast- light, suficient power/torque, 2 speed transfer case/nice low range, and as much as I liked driving the Pathy and not being every other Jeep or Yota in Colorado... it is so nice to have aftermarket options galore with the platform.
Thanks for looking!
My (other) project car: http://loosestandards.atwebpages.com/hey sweet restore BTW!
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Thanks...
I'm looking at both. I think the r5o looks newer and I like that it maybe latches lower, but the mounts might be too close together to clear the lights on my Toyota. The wd21 carrier was my original plan, it matches the era of the truck better and is a little bigger for mounting crap to. I know mine was stout as hell too.
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If anyone feels so inclined, bored or otherwise helpful,
I'm thinking about using a Pathy tire carrier on another project. I need to find the measurements of:
1. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are)
2. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate
3. tube diameter
4. body corner (hinge side) to each mounting bolt on the strike plate
thanks in advance!
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I am looking into using a spare tire gate from an r50 for another project. I know they are not all that common, but I do have one potentially lined up. I'm not able to get the info I need right now, so I was wondering if anyone has one and is bored enough that they don't mind taking a pic/measurement?
Specifically I'm looking for photos of:
1. the latch, strike/catch plate and entire mechanism (to see how it functions and where it is exactly)
2. a close up of the top of the hinge mount on the body (to see the body contour)
and measurements for:
3. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are)
4. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate below the door
5. tube diameter
Thanks in advance!
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I used to frequent NPORA several years ago. I couldn't log in with my original name Earth1 it's been so long... don't know the password or what email I used. Oh well
Since I was here last, I sold my Pathy and all my earthly possessions and went on a very extended backpacking trip in Latin America. I miss that truck for sure. It was the first time I really dove into mechanical work on my own; I learned a lot and gained a ton of confidence. Sometimes I wondered if I should have just driven it south and not sold it... it was a very capable overland expedition vehicle after all, but selling it funded a big part of my trip. My time down there was amazing and wouldn't have gone so long without the contribution selling the truck. Plus, the owner ended up here, but has since sold the truck. Maybe the most recent owner is on here, who knows?
I've been back here in the states for over a year now and still feel like I'm getting used to being back. 3 years for me in a very different culture really changed my view on a lot of things. I've been almost starting my life over, from a backpack full of clothes. I found work and got back at the good ol American dream.
Earlier this year I found a deal on a truck that I could not pass on. It's a 3rd generation 4Runner(01), but with a 1st generation(87) 4Runner body sitting on it. Pretty much one of a kind rig. Looks like an old-school 4Runner but with the entire platform of the 01. Picked it up for a steal. Not a Nissan, but a cool truck nonetheless... note my display "trader"- at least it's Japanese
. I have befriended an xterra owner and plan on getting together with the local Nissan group; we are all still brothers on the trail, right? I'm planning a project of adapting a tire carrier from an r50, so over there I go to ask questions! I feel it is just too taboo to put a photo here in the intros, so go find the pic in the off topic area if you're interested.
Thanks for the camaraderie! Good to see some familiar names are still here.
josh
Self-edited for insensitive comments...
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Thanks Pezzy, that would be awesome! Just let me know if I need to do anything.
josh
Welcome back... we can reset your password and merge your old & new accounts if you would like.
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Here is my (re)intro I just wrote if anyone cares to read... intro.
I found this truck locally and had to have it. It's an 87 4Runner body on a 01 4Runner chassis; old school, top-off looks with the 3rd gen Runner reliability. The price was too good to pass up. Solid truck with a great wheeling platform. I put about a 3" lift on it, the basket and lights and 285's. It came with bumpers and a body lift and some newer seats. Has been a perfect truck for my needs all summer.
Some pics mall crawling. I apologize for the low res pic with the dirty cellphone camera lens.
BTW it will still articulate quite a bit more, swaybars are connected with flex to spare in this photo.
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I used to frequent NPORA several years ago. I couldn't log in with my original name Earth1 it's been so long... don't know the password or what email I used. Oh well
Since I was here last, I sold my Pathy and all my earthly possessions and went on a very extended backpacking trip in Latin America. I miss that truck for sure. It was the first time I really dove into mechanical work on my own; I learned a lot and gained a ton of confidence. Sometimes I wondered if I should have just driven it south and not sold it... it was a very capable overland expedition vehicle after all, but selling it funded a big part of my trip. My time down there was amazing and wouldn't have gone so long without the contribution selling the truck. Plus, the owner ended up here, but has since sold the truck. Maybe the most recent owner is on here, who knows?
I've been back here in the states for over a year now and still feel like I'm getting used to being back. 3 years for me in a very different culture really changed my view on a lot of things. I've been almost starting my life over, from a backpack full of clothes. I found work and got back at the good ol American dream.
Earlier this year I found a deal on a truck that I could not pass on. It's a 3rd generation 4Runner(01), but with a 1st generation(87) 4Runner body sitting on it. Pretty much one of a kind rig. Looks like an old-school 4Runner but with the entire platform of the 01. Picked it up for a steal. Not a Nissan, but a cool truck nonetheless... note my display "trader"- at least it's Japanese
. I have befriended an xterra owner and plan on getting together with the local Nissan group; we are all still friends on the trail, right? I'm planning a project of adapting a tire carrier from an r50, so over there I go to ask questions! I feel it is just too taboo to put a photo here in the intros, so go find the pic in the off topic area if you're interested.
Thanks for the camaraderie! Good to see some familiar names are still here.
josh
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Nice. I just had one break off when I opened the hood with some ice on it. I was getting a new pair anyway, good o know they changed.
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It's basically the same thing. Loosen the bolts all the way so the anchor is loose and twist the anchor a spline or two or three and tighten it back up.
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Exhaust leak from broken manifold stud(s). There's a bunch of info about it on here somewhere.
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POR-15 is the ultimate primer for preventing rust. Scrape/grind off as much rust as possible, use a phosphoric acid wash (converts rust) I use a product called "The Right Stuff" from Home Depot, then the POR-15. DON'T paint over rust... even microscopic oxidized pores will continue to rust under the paint.
Tcase linkage is easy and you can find one at a junkyard, one of the boots is disposable and you may need a new one from Nissan or similar.
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88 is the man. Till he gets that writeup up, here's my basic how to from another post, it may get you started or at least thinking in the right direction.
There's only 1 way to do a tbar lift. It's very easy; if you have a jack and stands, and a 19mm (I think) wrench and socket you can do it. You won't have to raise much if you are only barely hitting the plastic.-Make sure it's in gear and the brake is on.
-Take a measurement from the ground, both sides. I like to use the pinch weld right by the flares.
-Get the front tires off the ground. If you don't have jack stands it can be done on the ground, but it's easier w/out weight on the front. Tightening the tbars with the front on the ground may stress the anchors on the front, but I can't confirm that.
-The adjusters are in the middle frame crossmember, look for two long bolts with 2 nuts on each. Loosen the top nuts so the lower nut can move up. The top one is a keeper nut, if you can get a wrench on both at the same time that will work too. Tighten the bolts; this twists the bar (moves the anchor up into the xmember) and puts more pressure on them, raising the front. 10 full turns should get a decent amount of lift but play around with it, maybe you'll need more or less. If you offroad make sure the anchors don't sit below the xmember, they can catch on rocks if they're down too far. Not good.
-Get it back on the ground and bounce the crap out of it to settle the suspension.
-Measure again, it should be higher in the front now but you don't want the front higher than the back. Pathys came stock with the back a little higher. Both sides should be the same, a little higher on the driver side is ok.
-Pull up on an obstacle with one wheel (flex one side) and turn the wheel completely both ways to see if anything rubs.
That should do it.
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Good info here, try this: LINK
I'm looking for Wd22 4.9s as well, I was told it was a straight swap like McClurgM said.
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I still don't see why you can't get the stock tbars to lift. Did you take the tbar out of the anchor and move it over a couple of splines?
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Glad to hear it's back in your hands.
My Factory manual is pretty vague, which is really unusual. It just says to remove front shaft, loosen differential crossmember, loosen engine mounts and raise engine- it's in the way but shouldn't have to move much. It does get specific with torque specs and tightening order; you should probably get a manual. 5 bolts each on the CV's, 2 mounting the crossmember (1 for the bushing), 4 each on the motor mounts, a breather tube- I think like that's about it, maybe I'm forgetting something but it should be easy to tell what needs to come off.
$175 for taking out 8 very easy to get to bolts sucks, took em like 5 minutes. I guess they were charging you for their time and keeping it at the shop.
Check the hubs first, sounds like they're ok if you drove in 2WD though. Jack up the front, spin a front tire (in 2wd), if the front driveshaft mating flange on the back of the dif turns, you need new hubs cuz they're stuck. Both tires will probably turn since the dif is seized.
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Hey Earth, didn't you do an experiment with some grease for poly bushings? Any info for us?? Am I totally clueless and asking the wrong guy??
B
Ah yes. I'll look that one up and update it.
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Thanks, will try this, hopefully it will work.
Anyone know where I can get a used front differential?
Start combing your local junkyards, I can get a front end for $65 here (you pull yards). You should be able to find one no problem. I could get you one for free here in CO, but shipping to the East coast would be cost prohibitive. Like Simon said (hehe) make sure the gears on the donor match, any year WD21 will work. Are you able to do the work yourself? If you can pull yours at home first, it will make stripping the donor easier at the yard since you'll be familiar with it. You actually won't end up spending that much if you can do it. You'll be glad you didn't abandon the pathy if you only end up spending two or three hundred.
Used to be a Pathy owner, want to see my 4Runner?
in Off-Topic
Posted
So true, the Tacoma is the size the Tundra used to be and the Tundra is huge.
I was thinking the same... but a supercharged VG33ER WD22 with a WD21 body would be sweet, with some changes. After helping my friend lift his WD22 and spending some time underneath, it looks more and more like my old Pathy every time I see it. It is so similar. Granted it is leaf-sprung in the rear, but the dimensions are close and the wheelbase is exactly the same;
WD22:Length 178.0 in, Width 70.4 in, Wheelbase 104.3 in
vs.
WD21 Length 171.9 in, WIdth 66.5 in, Wheelbase 104.3 in
Now if you had an X motor/chassis sitting around and a Pathfinder donor with a clean body/interior, swapping the Pathy 5 link rear and going with a custom gas tank where the X's spare is wouldn't be hard for someone with enough time, some money, and crazy enough to do it... just to say you did it. You'd still be wheeling an IFS, basically the same as before. A built VG33et/SAS swap on a WD21 would yield better results for the same effort IMO.
I don't know anything about those frames, that could change my opinion though.