Tungsten Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 When replacing the spark plugs, a common mistake people make is use anti-seize on them. Rightly so they want to prevent the plugs from seizing inside the head. Maybe it is a good idea with crappy plugs and an old iron head but you should never do this with a VG30E motor and NGK plugs. Using anti-seize on spark plugs will do the following: Alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening (or breaking the spark bolt) Reduces electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive (reduced spark possible) Isolates more heat into the spark plug therefore causing the plug to increase the heat range above specification (can cause detonation/pre-ignition) Creates a big goopy mess when tightening The thing with NGK plugs is that they are already self-lubricating and corrosion resistant. They have to be installed dry. Never put anti-seize on them. I used to only coat the washer but as of recently found no need to even do that. Change those plugs once in a while and they will never seize up and you get great gas mileage. Remember to check the gap! Additional reading: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 There are special kinds of anti-seize made exactly for plugs (that don't actually change the heat range) and I like all the input and no this thread is not stupid. You can ask plenty of people that have experience building engines and all of their opinions on anti-seize will vary. Like I said before though, I never had a problem not using anti-seize with this motor, the VG30E and NGK spark plugs. Other motors might be different. This is a Nissan Pathfinder forum and not a Ford whatever. Would I use anti-seize on VG30E plugs? Nope. Would I use it on an old iron head with autolite/champion plugs? Probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 There are special kinds of anti-seize made exactly for plugs (that don't actually change the heat range) and I like all the input and no this thread is not stupid. You can ask plenty of people that have experience building engines and all of their opinions on anti-seize will vary. Typical... Why do you back up now and say you can use 'special kinds of anti-seize' when the title says 'NEVER'? And what is this special kind? Links to products please... I used to only coat the washer There is the problem, operator error! What the hell good would coating the washer do? The threads have vastly more surface area contact than the washer, and the washer can spin freely so it won't bind the plug at all. How about you coat the threads (which are what binds) and leave the crush washer alone, allowing that to do the conducting. Best of both worlds and zero issues. This is turning into one of those threads again. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 I don't put it on the thread because doing that makes the thread feel too easy to put in. When I would put it on the washer it would also make its way on the very top thread to avoid freezing at the top where its open to the elements. I stopped doing that just to see if there would be a problem after a while but they came out fine. Change the plugs every 3 to 4 years and they will never seize. Did you guys even read any of the thread before posting more stuff? Simon posted the picture of the special type of anti-seize you can use but I still don't do it or recommend doing it. No contradictions here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 The threads don't limit the torque, it is when the crush washer contacts and is crushed that the torque applies. Stick VS liquid isn't a special type, it is a different consistency for ease of application. Where did Simon talk about it not increasing the heat range or changing torque values? He didn't... There are special kinds of anti-seize made exactly for plugs (that don't actually change the heat range) Again, where does one find this special, non-insulating anti-seize 'made exactly for plugs'? Who makes it? Does it come in stick or liquid form? Spray on? Since you are obviously better versed and started this thread, please follow through and provide the special solution for all our members to use. B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 I can install them dry by hand and they turn just fine. I just like to plug them into a socket and an extension and rotate them in before torquing down with a ratchet. I do have a torque wrench but haven't had to use it yet. That thread is really difficult to strip out if you know what you're doing. It's not like a fine thread like on those tiny bolts. The spark bolts just turn too easy if they are over lubricated. The engine is pretty crowded in a small space so feel is everything. Anyway the main reason why many people get seized plugs (and maybe even bad threads) is that they leave plugs in for 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I change plugs at 30,000 mile intervals and have had no issues with that. These plugs aren't expensive and they do make enough of a difference in efficiency to justify replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Don't use logic, he is impervious... Anyway the main reason why many people get seized plugs (and maybe even bad threads) is that they leave plugs in for 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I change plugs at 30,000 mile intervals and have had no issues with that. These plugs aren't expensive and they do make enough of a difference in efficiency to justify replacing. I have pulled spark plugs out of R50 VG33s with 150k and 250k on them (surmised by the entire electrode being burned away) without issue, so there goes that theory... It took my buddy (a mechanic/machinist) an entire afternoon to remove 6 plugs from his VG30 with 140k on it because they were bound so tight; I was amazed he got them all out without breaking any. Maybe because no anti-seize was used? Again, where does one find this special, non-insulating anti-seize 'made exactly for plugs'? Who makes it? Does it come in stick or liquid form? Spray on? Since you are obviously better versed and started this thread, please follow through and provide the special solution for all our members to use. Answer the question/supply the information or I lock and hide the thread for the bullcrap it smells like. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Tungsten, you make brash statements, contradict yourself and then ignore repeated requests to supply proof to support your statements. We are here to share accurate information, not play games, so quit wasting everyones time. We have been through this several times; keep it up and you will be banned. Well, I'm a man of my word. I asked 3 times and was ignored so I've shut down this thread until the OP will support his statements. PM me if you can provide support for all your claims, otherwise this done. B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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