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mike1305

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    48
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21 Excellent

About mike1305

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie
  • Birthday October 30

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Gorgeous SE found on Craigslist!
  • Place of Residence
    Colorado
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado Springs
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Good idea. I think I'll have that done in the fall before first snow. In all honesty, I'm seriously considering a 2021 Bronco, and with already restoring my grandfather's 1982 Toyota, my Pathy might get the boot next summer. This truck is totally complete inside and out, with all the options checked, a fully sorted drivetrain, and once the body work is done... I might do my part to bring attention and value to these badass trucks by throwing it on Cars & Bids. Would really want the rust mitigated first so I'm not passing the buck. I honestly think it could command $5-6k to the right buyer.
  2. Thanks for the notes everyone. I've got an absolute @!*%load of work to do on my Toyota as well so I'm hoping to at least try to address this by the fall. I don't have a welder and haven't welded anything since 2006 but I like that idea of just cutting it all out and using duct tape LOL or at least stripping the interior myself to save the dude some labor. He wasn't comfortable just welding in a flat piece of metal and was more keen on finding a replacement piece, I don't blame him since he's gotta sign off on the safety aspect of the work. But I obviously don't care. The storage box idea is interesting too. Cheers!
  3. Well after 5 minutes, I realized Google did a better job than our native search engine. Looks like I need to inspect, inspect, inspect for more. Fun times. For posterity:
  4. Hey gang, Decided that my Pathy is in too near-perfect shape to let the rust eat it alive. After weeks of calling and searching, I finally found a local shop that is willing to do rust repair. All the shops around here just seem to focus on insurance work and hail damage repair, and I can't blame them! Once I found a shop who wasn't turned off by the R-Word, we did an inspection. The rockers are being replaced wholesale and the rear quarter panel is also getting repaired. I can't do (and am not willing to learn) body work so I think it'll be like $1000-1200 out the door. I'm okay with that. Where the real issue was is the under seat rust. He was thinking somewhere in the $3,000 range due to the amount of labor required to essentially uninstall the interior to clear the working area, let alone finding a replacement patch panel. That quote hurt. For $1,000 I'm willing to pay a pro and get it done right. For $3,000 I'm willing to wait and look for alternatives. While I see this issue called out in the common issues, for whatever reason, the NPORA search engine is failing to show me any threads related to this problem and possible fixes. No topics in the Garage anywhere either. Any pro tips here? Maybe for this one it is worth my time to borrow a welder and figure it out.... thoughts? Rear Quarter: Under seat... worse than it looks too:
  5. $1600 of parts from LCE are waiting to ship, that's when the real fun will start. For now, just swapped in a 4WD grill and installed all new marker lights since the old ones were literally falling apart.
  6. Thanks! I posted something there, still waiting approval. My buddy owns Gossamer so maybe I'll be a celebrity by proxy, lol.
  7. I'm attacking this in three, asynchronous phases. Wheels and Tires for wheels and tires, looking at these with white letter BFG RATs: https://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/wheelsbysize/details?pt=Pacer+Wheels+297B+Soft+8+15x8+Gloss+Black+6mm+Offset&partno=297B-5812P 15x8's with 6mm offset, should help fit some wider tires. 225/60R15 fronts, 255/60R15 rear. Stock is 195/70R14 pizza cutters. For what it's worth, this site has been super, super helpful in @!*% checking my dreams of running 305's and making my truck look like the stuff I drew as a child. haha. https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/ All kinds of other tools in the sidebar. Other cosmetics (paint, any extra hardware) For other cosmetics... well I'm still messing around with ideas, you see them above. engine upgrades For engine upgrades, there isn't much to do on a 22R without throwing the kitchen sink at it. I did find a few light mods that should make it breathe better and sound cooler to match the new looks. Side exhaust anyone? https://www.lceperformance.com/LCE-Street-Header-Kit-2WD-Direct-Fit-22R-RE-1982-1-p/1041031.htm https://www.lceperformance.com/22R-Weber-40mm-Sidedraft-Carburetor-Kit-p/1030048.htm The side draft carb is obviously not a great choice unless I'm drag racing, and I don't know anything about tuning cards, so I'll probably just go with a 32/36 downdraft or something, but it would look &^%*ing SICK THO. haha. Also, LOL: https://www.lceperformance.com/category-s/20276.htm
  8. Reddit didn't seem to care, and I don't think most Toyota Pickup forums would care either since these have been done a million times... I just want a build thread! For reference, I was going to buy a new project car, but decided against it and want to throw a few thousand of parts and paint at my 1982. It looks like a grandpa truck now, because well, it was owned by my grandpa. I've spent the last few years waffling about any upgrades, keeping it "stock", how my grandfather had it, etc... but ultimately it's my truck til I die or it rusts to dirt, so I want to put my flair on it. Being 2WD, I thought it would be fun to throw a side draft carb, a nice header and exhaust, lower it an inch or two, and make it look a little "meaner". Here it is now (on the right). As an aside, I'm trying to sell the wheels over at an Aspen/Volare forum if anyone wants them for some reason. 5x114.3 14". I am not so precious with it now after learning the extent of the body work my grandfather had done after it was totaled. It's a salvage title, and I'd never sell it anyway, so keeping it "mint" isn't really a concern. Check this out, haha. My grandfather apparently just sat there and watched the shop repair the damage, documenting along the way: Since it's 2WD, I'm thinking more of a "street" look, starting with some soft 8 style wheels, 1-2" lower, wider tires... and a refreshed retro-inspired paint job. Here's my current favorite, but I've been tinkering in photoshop for a few days now and might come up with something else. Gallery of things I've been playing with: https://imgur.com/a/70zhVYR I think my recent binge of the BTTF trilogy inspired the roll bar. lol. Might need custom bumpers too, a bull bar would look sweet. Small one like this:
  9. In case anyone cares, or for future searchers, I have reached out to a few folks for more info. First, I called Nissan corporate. Not too much help, but the rep did put in an inquiry for any archival info to some relevant group. Not hopeful there though. got a wild hair up my @$$ and ran a carfax (probably should have pre purchase, oh well). Good news is I discovered the timing belt was done 20k miles ago. Worth the $40 many times over since I was gonna make that my next major maintenance. But it did tell me that the car was serviced at a Denver AutoNation dealer many times by the first owner. While the original sale isn’t on my carfax, it seems like a got lead telling me the truck was bought there. That dealer is out of business, so I called AutoNation corporate and put in an inquiry there. Will keep this updated as times goes on. cant imagine many WD21 Pathy owners would really give a crap about this stuff, but hey - with a ton of $10,000+ auctions for nice examples, it could be a nice thing to have on hand for collector value
  10. A recent Jalopnik article references this website to obtain old Pontiac invoices and other info for pre-87 Pontiac’s: PHS Online does anything exist like this for Nissans? Would love to see the option sheet and stuff for my 1992.
  11. That's crazy. I had the cluster out (obviously) and saw one trace "ING CHECK" went to a blank bulb, would be right above the brake light, but just red. Might be worth putting in a bulb next time I disassemble the dash to resolder the joints. Has anyone actually done that? I've found videos on how to check codes on the ECU. Maybe it's better not to have it there, I'm sure it's got codes galore with all the deferred maintenance I'm trying to catch up on, haha.
  12. Well I did end up going full "head slap" but for a different reason. The black connector that hooks up here was jammed behind the plastic bucket mold the cluster sits in, and I basically forgot it was there. Plugged it in, right as rain! D'oh. On a separate topic, where the heck is the check engine light? haha. Sorry to drag this back out of the depths.... Cheers
  13. Getting back around to actually fixing this. I have a regulator unit that looks like this... I ended up just scrapping whatever board is in there and putting a regulator in the same spot as before. Ran a few 9Vs together since the regulator I bought has a minimum voltage of 10V, and it puts out 8V as specified. Put it all back together, and still no fuel gauge. Damn. Maybe FSU. Okay. Let's go for a test drive and see if I can get temps to move. NOPE. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. This is like the fourth time I've disassembled all this. Here's my issue now... My 92 has a slightly different setup than the documentation I've got to work with. Instead of getting power from the 10 or 8 pin headers, it's from a 2 pin header that's just 12V and ground highlighted above. In the solution2.pdf last page, where I can troubleshoot, it references power from pin A, but those are blank now (since it's from the dedicated 2 pin connector). When I connect my multimeter to the 2 pin header, I get 12V. But when I have it connected to the cluster, I don't get 12V from yellow to ground. What gives? I'm totally at sea here. There's a bunch of blanks, I assume this printed circuit is modular in design, for different cluster designs, and having them blank is a non-issue? Such a bummer that 1992 manuals aren't available anywhere. I'm close to throwing this issue over the wall to my mechanic. I'm going to go check the FSU and temp sensor next and see if I end up slapping my forehead. HARD.
  14. Found some sets online, can get all four for like $650 shipped. Still debating if it's worth it! Sounds like a strong maybe, if I have the cash to burn? I would need to check if the PO even left the harnesses in usable condition first. Time to bust out a wiring diagram.
  15. Been a while, but Westsider here. Would love to hit a trail soon once my truck is buttoned up!

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