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evan55

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About evan55

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 XE, 3" SL, Rough Country UCAs, JGC rear springs, Rancho shocks, 31x10.5R15 BFG KO2 tires, Energy Suspension poly bushings on swaybar and strut rods, B&M 70264 Trans cooler, Hardbody headlights, 4x4 grille, and brushguard, Yakima roof rack, 20% window tint.
  • Place of Residence
    BC
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    BC, Canada
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. Cut the pigtail end off. I used a zip disc on an angle grinder.
  2. 31x10.5R15 BFG KO2s on stock lego wheels
  3. Looking back now, I don't think the nuts I purchased are 10.9. The store didn't have any grade 8 or 10 nuts in this size. Is it really necessary to have a grade 8 or 10 nut ? Just wondering if I need to pull these nyloc ones off now..
  4. Thanks guys, I ended up bringing it into the store, it is M14x1.5 I went with just a nyloc nut instead of the lock washer and nut
  5. Does anyone know the size of these nuts by chance? If not I'll just bring 1 into the fastener store.
  6. I have a B&M 70264. It's pretty beefy. You will need to trim the grill a little bit to make it fit. I have the radiator bypassed.
  7. Yeah I know! it really kills the mood when out driving a trail and you have to get out every couple miles to check on the nuts. I used blue loctite before. I'm either going to try red loctite or just get new nuts.
  8. The blue arrow is pointing to the nuts which are loosening up. Nylock nuts sound like a good idea.
  9. I'm still finding the UCA spindle nuts are loosening up as I mentioned above with pics. I did blue loctite on the nuts and retorqued them to spec, and when driving down rough forest roads I had to tighten the nuts every couple miles because they were about to fall off! I think I'm just going to buy new nuts and lock washers and try that. Any idea what the nuts are, M14 x1.5? Same as the uca bolts? Thanks!
  10. Good info, I'll be replacing my CVs pretty soon. 1 boot has been torn for a few months now since winter.
  11. Yeah I think I'm going to drive it as-is for a while since it drives fine. Steering wheel has always had about 1/2" of play. I also need time to save up for the CL, TREs, and idler arm. In your experience, which steering parts are the first to go? Centerlink? And is it something that gets gradually worse overtime? I'm trying to plan what to look out for. I'd hate to be suddenly stranded.
  12. Swing out tire carrier can be found at the junkyard. Bring a sawzall to cut open the outside sheetmetal to pull the brackets off. There's a thread on this if you search Google. Check local classified for roof racks. I bought a used Yakima rack that fit onto my bare roof (no factory roof rails) you will need Yakima Q20 door clips. For the lift adjust your torsion bars in the front and buy Rough Country UCAs that are meant for the Hardbody. You have to call and ask for just the arms and not the whole kit, as the rear components for the Hardbody will not work on the Pathfinder. For the rear, Jeep grand cherokee springs and longer shocks. Do a search on Google, there's quite a few threads with good info
  13. I will definitely get an idler arm brace, either the 4x4 parts brace, or make my own. The grassroots centerlink looks pretty beefy. I don't plan on doing a lot of hard offroading. I'm mostly going to use the pathfinder for overlanding and light trails. Do you think a stock replacement centerlink would be fine for that?
  14. Thanks Adam, will try the loctite if they loosen up again.

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