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TroyButler

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TroyButler last won the day on July 28

TroyButler had the most liked content!

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About TroyButler

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    QX4
  • Place of Residence
    Canada
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Location
    Canada
  • Country
    Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

194 profile views
  1. I appreciate the input and i have some questions - for learning purposes not to be offensive in anyway. The timing belt was changed 30k km ago and 2 years ago, what are the odds of it randomly jumping timing while idling? I believe - not 100% sure but we got it to start by advancing timing as i remember him saying it hated being fully advanced but was good with a bit. I think as the spark plugs looked like crap and the constant cranking over the couple days and constant engine flooding would ruin the spark plugs even more thus also explaining why it missfired? I know the basics of timing and timing charts but never have had an problems with it and only set timing a handful of times. Would you think it could be fatal for the engine if i just tried replacing the distributor and sparkplugs and took it around the block to see if that solved it, before pulling it further apart to reset the timing? Ideally I would have a timing gun or pull it apart to check but unfortunately our shop doesnt have one and i only have like half an hour a day to mess with it occasionally with a techs help. As with the age of these engines very few people i work with a good with them, and thats why i really appreciate the feed back here.
  2. Well good news we got it to start and checked fuel pressure it was all good. We got it to start by messing a bunch with the timing at the distributor so were gonna try replacing it and hope for the best. It idled fine but once you start driving it runs pretty poor. Anything below 20km/h and it probably would die unless i went to neutral and revved it. The spark plugs looked a bit bad when we first looked at it all, but from the constant trying to start and flooding i now have a missfire code so they're prob junk and will be replacing those aswell. I hope most distributors last longer than 2 years, but i really hope this fixes it.
  3. Yeah i know its getting some fuel as i can smell it and i did take off the fuel line up at the motor and as i primed it pissed some out but again just cause some fuel doesnt mean enough pressure.. oddly enough we got it to start once, run for 10 minutes, turned it off and it wouldnt restart.
  4. No, I checked with a handheld scanner and consult, no codes
  5. Yes the rotor is turning. And i took the cap off, the rotor off, then the black shield piece held in by 2 screws and it all looked clean to me under it
  6. i havent got to fully rip it apart but i remember it looking pretty good a couple months ago. I also just checked my receipts from the previous owner. The distributor and spark plug wires was replaced only 2 years and 30k km ago, so i would doubt its that?
  7. We're assuming I have fuel as i took of the high pressure feed line and primed it for a second and it pissed out. Used a noid light injectors are getting a signal so i assume firing. The spark plugs do look a bit dry though. We pulled out a plug and grounded it and tried starting and it did spark. The engine does seem to crank normally. I do smell fuel., i tried pumping the pedal to start and flooring it. Not sure of any fuses that may effect it? A guy i work with even though he had spark, he says he still needed a new distributor so maybe ill have to go buy a new one?
  8. Was leaving work, was about to pull out and while waiting it started juddering a ton for a couple seconds then died. She cranks, has spark, and i just filled up the other day and shows over half a tank but no start. tried unplugging the MAF but also no luck and no codes. help 1997 VG33E QX4
  9. Where the AC lights easy to do? my AC controls have 0 lights except for the orange selected light
  10. Hate to be the one to bring up and old topic but with all the talk of bump stops i just had a question. Does the bags still help if you don't have any bump stops? I have the 1" spacer on the bottom, and all my bump stop broke off before i owned the truck and never replaced them. Or does the bag need to support the vehicle by lifting up on the bump stop?
  11. Sorry to bring up and old topic but I feel like adding more lights again, and was wondering what you used to attach the pods to the basket? thank you
  12. I know this may be a bit late, but yes you can very easily do a single kayak that way
  13. The reason i was trying to go this route mainly was to prevent trying to run wires into the cabin. I liked the resistor idea, but then it would be a lot of guessing buying resistors since i dont know what the required voltage is to trigger the relay. Wiring is by far not my specialty. I also learned there is not a fuse for just the DRL, so i was trying to just cut a wire to disable them but boy is that a whole process. Cut the driver side high wire to the DRL module and all that did was eliminate my driver side high beam, still had running lights, loose my high beam dash indicator, but there was like a 1 second delay and my light bar still worked so something else must still be triggering it with enough power? Also: soldering between the battery and the fender to get the tiny wires for the DRL is a pain - do not recommend. PS PS: I do appreciate all the potential solutions, im just not smart enough to implement all of them i was happy enought just to make a working wiring harness, and cutting a wire is very simple, once you know the correct wire
  14. Thats a really good idea thank you. I was just gonna pull a fuse for DRL and see if that worked, but now i have an option A and B
  15. Damn. I thought it would be the low beams. Anyway to work around that, and have it trigger with just he high beams and not running lights? Im currently tapped into the high beam wire if that matters.

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