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About TroyButler

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    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  1. Little late to reply but wanted to make sure everything works. New axle is in and all seems to work fine and i figured out what broke on the old axle, well actually nothing broke. Im not sure how it happened exactly but it did. I took pictures i can post them later if requested but essentially if you look at the first photo the shaft fell out of the joint basically (idk what to properly call it). On that shaft is splines that insert into the joint so that it perfectly meshes together. Around half way up the splines is a snap ring. I dont know how it happened, the snap ring was there, in perfect condition. Something happened basically that snap ring got compressed, closed, and let the shaft fall right out. That is why i couldn't re-insert it because i would've had to decompress the snap ring to insert it. I cut the snap ring and it slid right back in perfectly, so all the force in the world and loosening/undoing components would have done nothing. So if anyone has this problem, just replace the axle.
  2. Funny I had similar ideas since every scrap yard around me is littered with fords... maybe not a good sign though
  3. Awesome thank you, i must now try to find a set of bars.
  4. Not to thread jack just trying to give a quick answer. No camber plates, camber bolts should be fine from my understanding for these vehicles. Camber is a large wear angle for your tire as it determines the size of your contact patch. For reference search: camber gang on google too see exaggerated instances on how negative camber leaves less tire touching the road. Pretend these slashes are your tires Neutral camber: I Negative Camber: / Postitive Camber: \ With neutral camber your entire tire when driving straight is on the road, but when cornering it shifts to an edge. With negative camber when driving straight you are riding more on the edge of your tire but flatten out in cornering (on my track car i run negative camber so it grips better while cornering) Typically when running camber you run a bit "less negative"(or more positive) camber on the driver side to correct for the road crown. Your vehicle will pull to which ever side is less negative. I do not remember the pros of running positive camber as my main focus has always been sports cars. Also i hear rock auto is the best place to get the camber bolts
  5. Out of curiosity how did you mount the kayak J rack carriers and a roof basket? Id love to have both so i could mount lights on my basket, but the main reason i have the SUV out in summer is to kayak.
  6. Sounds perfect. wanted a more robust solution since my girlfriend really needs the step to mount our kayaks. Added protection also just means can have more fun
  7. My locks are messed up as in my passenger side only locks and unlocks if you use a key in that door. If i lock all doors from driver side or fob, the passenger remains unlocked. But if i lock from passenger side with key, it will lock all the doors
  8. My 97 QX4 did not come with fobs either but i bought one on Ebay and it works pretty good. The locks on my vehicle are a bit messed up and sometime the fob takes a couple clicks to open the rear doors but overall im happy with it This is the one i bought i believe: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Replacement-for-Infiniti-97-99-QX4-Mercury-99-02-Villager-Remote-Car-Key-Fob/191892726290?hash=item2cadb2a212:g:rg4AAOSwskha-uFp&vxp=mtr
  9. I ordered a new axle should be in within a week or 2. Sorry to inconvenience everyone, im just not use to the big SUV life. I have a background more with BMW’s and am much more familliar with those (coupes and such).
  10. I was well aware there was various thicknesses that had to be specific vehicle. All he said was order from nissan, not, how to know before disassembly which to order. And again i looked at the FSM, doesn’t specifice which thickness is needed that i saw. I assumed the best way to know is to measure after dissassembly but before that i am unsure. Sorry if that troubles you also seeing as mine wasn’t installed correctly it may not even have the old snap ring in to begin with so besides guess and check i was unsure how to know the specific one to use, unless as i asked it would be tied to the vin.
  11. Alright, maybe back to the idea of replacing the entire axle. I was looking at the infiniti parts catalog and there 7 different thicknesses of snap rings? If i type in vin will it show what i need or will i have to measure what i pull out with a caliper/micrometer to know what to get? also is this the basic outline of what to do with the auto-hubs? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35721-cv-boot-replacement-v-axle-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=669202 edit: also looking at new axles on rock auto, one says does not include abs ring? Do i need to buy one that does?
  12. It partially comes down to laziness. The Axle is fully attached to the trans and is only about an inch out from the hub. The splines still look all good i think it was just the snap ring or the lack of it. My axle seems to be fine, i think the snap ring was the culprit (to which i also don’t see the snap ring online?). My problem is my cv partially in the hub but needs to move another inch or less to be fully seated in. Any advice? I tried taking off the tie rod end but it would not come out, and hammering it may have slightly damaged a thread. If i could just reboot it, grease it, and move it the 1 inch it needs id be all set

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