jprater88

Hey stevo I was going to ask you in your 4link thread if you ever got final word on axle we were talking about... I will soon be in a position to purchase it if everything is to my liking... What i need to know for one is price, track width, and if you will be offering a complete axle assembly or just the housing

so are they building the H233B to the factory track width or wider? Because I really dont want to have to run wheel spacers they put to much load on bearings and throw suspension geo. off

do you know what price range it will be, I am trying to keep this build inside a budget... It does sound really interesting that I could be esentually running the same third member. Also are there any High Pinion options for the H233b

So anyone have any thoughts on the Dana 44/60 hybrid and which 44 to go with

Thanks for the info I will check them out, And being a noob i will deffinetly not argue about sage wisdom on the subject.

yeah the t-case would be replaced when the new engine goes in and i am debating which one to use not sure if i want to go overboard and do an atlas or just us a factory chevy t-case or even a NP231 out of a Cherokee

Well didn't know that about the H223B, And I wasnt planning on putting a Dana 60 in the front I was planning on putting a Dana 44 with Dana 60 outer Knuckles not only for the strength but for the use of high steering arms. And I wasn't just wanting to get rid of the R200 because of the engine that I will eventually be putting in there. I am wanting to make a more serious trail rig and for what I will be putting it through IFS wont do.

I have opted to turn the pathy into almost a trail dedicated rig, but retaining street use. So I have thrown my IFS suspension upgrade in the trash because I already have 2 dailies and dont really need another one. I am starting to get all the parts for the start of my SAS swap and was debating if I should use DANA 60 outers on a DANA 44 axle for peace of mind, because I dont want to run into regretting my choice in the end. Now I am basically running my entire build off of Nissannuts's spread sheet on his build. And I am taking alot of what he did and goin to try duplicate it because it is just a work of beauty... There are other questions that I have about which DANA 44 is the closest track width to the pathy becuase I am going to be swapping the rear as well and would like to pull them from the same vehicle. I have searched the forums and seen that most people have opted to use the late 80's- early 90's waggoneer 44's but is that the one that is the closest? I know that the factory rear is more than enough for the size tire that I am wanting to run which are 35's but I am eventually goin to be swapping in a smallblock and I know that it cant possible handle the power that it will be producing which is close to about 450hp and around the same amount of torque. So If anyone could help with the questions that I have it would be much apprieciated, also any insite as to the DANA 60 outers and if they are neccicary... Thank you Joshua

I have a question I am considering doing a SAS soon and want to know other than the Wagoneer dana 44 is there any other 44 from other jeeps like the wrangler or anything that is the same size or slighly smaller/larger that I could use and not really widen my track width on my pathy... The reason i posted here is I like this build and Nut seems like he has a great erray of knowledge on this subject... Plus I like the fact he gave a build sheet on parts and a general write-up on it

or the ever so famous "did you check your blinker fluid lately your turn signals seem dim"

im lucky to even see 75, to tell the truth with the gearing in the older models (well my year atleast) they wont get up to fast or to a high speed... If they had an overdrive unit or another gearset inside the main cluster of the trans they might respond better and travel faster... I have been trying to find a different trans that will mate up and get better fuel economy

wow i feel like an idiot now thanks nunya you have been a big help

thanks nunya thats would help alot i want to get atleast my pc in so i can go further off road and more remote trails

how do i get the vents out to get to them and thanks for the info about the other two

Okay i have gotten a few mic. off-road toys(overland navigator for pc from spatial minds, and a unidin 510xl cb) that I want to put in and they all require a power source... I want to run them in parallel with the cigarette /12v power outlet but for some stupid reason I cant get the damn center con bezel off.. I found the two lower screws and the one hidden in the ash tray area now where else is it attached and how the hell do i get it off (sorry for the language its just irritating) so does anyone know how to get it off.. plus i need to fix an issue with how the previous owner put in the radio.. please help

yeah it runs perfectly fine just like the day that i bought it which was only about a month ago but no issues now.... If anything she runs better

change the distributor cap and the rotor you more then likely have corrosion on the contacts in the cap its the same symptoms mine had trust me... It seems weird but if you can take some sand paper to the contacts and clean them off and to the rotor also i bet you see an improvement... if so then there you go... EDIT... Mine was "auto reving" also thats why i thought that it was something else too... I would bet 100 bucks that if you do like i said you will have your answer...

okay I figures it out... I had been meaning to do a tune up on it anyway and so i started with some of the more expensive items like the cap and rotor and wouldn't you know it it fixed the problem... from there i actually set the idle where its suppose to be (idiot before me was not actually mechanically inclined and backed it all the way off)... So yeah now all I have to do is put the body lift and the springs on and she will be where I want her then its tires and fender flares if I can find any... Oh does anyone know how the hell to take the radio/ac/ash tray console bezel off I found the three screws but i think there are more under the vents and i cant get those off with out cracking the almost perfect pieces

and grim i was under the impression that was a tps but i may be wrong i havent checked yet

andy no i havent not yet i have been entirely to busy to get a chance to take the seat out and do the whole process

nunya i havent checked yet but i suspect you might be on to something... I just need a gauge set to test it... and as to the other i cant find my maf at all i am not even sure it uses one but i will check in the morning

anyone got any thoughts as to what it could be???????

Okay I have been having a problem with my pathy not wanting to stay started in the morning... and it only happens in the morning and in the evening.. What happens is I wake up to go to class in the morning and crank it and it dies instantly. It will start back up and do the same thing. But whats weird is that it wont do it during the day once it warms up. I at first thought that it was just a bad fuel filter and it helped for a couple of days but then it started to act up again. Now I was talking with a friend of mine about the whole issue and we both cant figure it out its bafleing the both of us... Now once i can get it started long enough to drive it has a real bad misfire that leads to it dying everytime i come to a stop... Some one please help figure this out

Okay this may seems stupid if not idiotic but i have been having a starting issue that has popped its ugly head up.... Well it turned out to be a fuel filter needing replaced.... You might try there.... unless you already replaced it...

man if i was back in texas i would let you borrow mine even though i dont know you from adam... i have other vehicles so it wouldnt be a problem.... but i am not there