bigsyke

Correct Idle speed is 700 rpms in D found on the card under my hood. I cant even get anywhere close to that without the Park idle being around 2000rpms. Ive capped everything, and replaced almost all gaskets on the IM/TB, new timing and everything (o2's ect) I cant get my TPS sensor within spec while the idle in Drive is 700rpms. THe TPS is around 0.80v+ at that point. The distributor is all the way retarded (which is still advanced with the timing gun) I have to have my D idle at 300rpms just to keep things within spec, and the Park/N idle is still above 1k.

The engine can push vapors out faster than being drawn out, UOA's have shown better TAN #'s with a vented crankcase on some vehicles, less chance for dirt being sucked into the crankcase if the valve cover gaskets or seals are torn aswell. I could go on for hours on how the PCV valve is only for emissions, and how the fuel vapors are flashed out of the crankcase when engine oil reaches normal 100c temp.

If I set my idle in gear to 700 rpms, the park idle is around 1500rpms. I have my TPS, Timing all set correctly. Does the FSM say anything for setting idle and tps? heck even timing?

I removed and capped everything, i mean EVERYTHING. Cat EGR AIV PCV A/B valve Mixture heater on the TBI Performance is excellent, however with no o2 sensor im getting 8mpg

Id like to know too, my idle is 1200rpms in park, 400 in drive.

I love this intake, Id buy one If I could find something like this. I have an AEM dryflo just sitting around.

Has anybody with a VG30i completely disconnected their primary o2 sensor? I know some people have done this to stabilize FI with a fouled o2 sensor on an LS1. I have no PCV valve, running VTA so its running rich with the lack of the unmetered leak it seems. IIRC a cruise control vac line was unhooked when I got about 21 mpg, now with it connected its 8mpg.

I was wondering, ive never seen the recommended type of ATF for a 1987 VG30I 3spd auto pathfinder 4x4. I know the FSM for the VG30e says DexIII, I assume it would be the same? I want to use Valvoline Maxlife, which is DexIII compatible, but it contains friction modifiers. Could we use Merc6? or DexVI? I really want the added benifits of synthetic, but if we must absolutely use DexIII conventional then that will suffice. Also was it matic-d for these trannys? or is the 87 before they had Matic?

whoops i meant 4wd Thanks for the info!!!

So on my 1987 pathfinder Vg30i, ive tried adjusting all the idle controls, and to prevent misfiring/backfiring (seems like it hits a rev limiter per say), I have to keep the Parked Idle under 1k-rpms. When I put it in Drive, the RPM's drop to 400 or so. It seems all the configurations (aside from having the Park idle @ 1500), I can not get the Drive idle at 700-800 rpms. I have cleaned the TBI, and Maf. Im wondering if the TPS is incorrectly adjusted possibly? Another thing is when Decellerating, the engine seems to jerk and the idle tends to drop "about 300rpms" - once I hit around 1200rpms durring decelleration. Has anyone else experienced this issue? High idle in park, low idle in drive?

Seafoam is too harsh for inside the crankcase. I always use Marvel Mystery Oil. I run about 1/2qt for 1,500 miles. Positive results from blackstone labs. I Also dont like Wix, they have leaky ADBV, that give you dry starts. I always use the best, PureONE. Everyone Ive used has passed the anti-drainback valve test. Also I use Penzoil Platinum. Synthetic is always better....www.Bobistheoilguy.com. Better add packs, base stocks, VII's, oxidation resistance, fuel dilution resistance, cold flow, flash point, etc. Synthetic - 6k miles or 6months x 2 times a year (3.5qts) $16 for an oil change - Penzoil Platinum $32 a year ($30 if your using Mobil1) Dino - 3k/3mo's x 4 times a year $8.40 for an oil change - PYB or Shell $32 a year Or go big and get the best of the best. Amsoil - 25k miles or 1yr $34 for an oil change $34 a year Oh and not having to remove and clean your PCV valve, thats why I would always run synthetic. I use nothing but amsoil in my racecars. If you want to get detailed, I stimulate the additive package by adding a tablespoon amount of Lubro-Moly MoS2 (not for use in amsoil)

I have my B&M remote trans filter installed to my lower alternator bolt. Im running a pureone pl3001 filter.

I currently have the FSM for the VG30E pathys however I have the VG30I. Im trying to find the Knock sensor wire on the ECU, and it says its pin 27 for the VG30E. Is it the same for the VG30I? Thank you!

thats why im going to bypass it at the ECM harness.

Does anybody know (if it has one) which ECU pin/color the knock sensor is on? (1987 pathy vg30i v6 4dr) Thank you much! The vg30e is pin 27, white. However Im not sure if theyre the same.