SamTex
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Posts posted by SamTex
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'95 auto, gremlins in the starting circuit. It's already got the relay mod. When I send 12v to the solenoid's signal wire, it will start. If I do this from the key, I get everything but a start.
What is preventing a start signal from my ignition? I've swapped out all the relays and tested all the fuses I can find. I'm about fed up and ready to make this baby push button start!!
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Sign me up!
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I've had that box out several times, not sure how I missed the opportunity to bend something for a better fit. It's a way of life for my ride!
Thanks fella's!
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Does anyone have a good solution for a replacement intake hose? From the air box to the intake? Since I installed my 3" body lift I've replaced this thing twice. They are always old, dry and tough so obviously don't last long when you force them to make the "body lift bend".
I eventually hope to find a better air box to use. The stock one has gotten warped and I doubt it's ability to seal well when I build a snorkel...
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Pulled my transmission last night, dreading the re-install.
But, a beefed up torque converter and shift kit for the trans will make it all worth it.
Now it's on to the rear main seal and whatever that other one is...
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Like I said;
As in stop at the 5/8 step on each side. this will leave you a small ridge in the center to overcome with a regular drill bit. I'm tellin ya, I've done all 3 methods and I prefer the Uni-bit for this one.
Rite on, I'll try that!
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I've got a drill press, just not sure how I'll get that whole steering system up there, secure and level for a nice clean bore. Ha, I tried getting that arm off the first time, not even going to try that route again.
I looked at stepper bits too, couldn't find any that ended in 5/8, they kept going a few sizes larger. Time to use the internets for that perfect bit.
If all else fails I'll just find a machine shop. They'd probably do a better job anyway...
Thanks guys!!
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You guys just gotta beat your chest like a mad man and yank that starter for test/inspection. No excuses. You drive a Nissan Pathfinder!
Mhay, I live outside of the DFW area. PM me with a price and I'll drop by to have a look see.
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Yall have any better methods of enlarging this hole to 5/8? I've already had the grassroots CL installed for a year or more, but I'm going for better results when modifying the pitman. I've pulled the steering box from my parts truck and want this hole to be perfect. The first time I did it I had to stop half way through and leave for work, my dad elected to "help" while I was gone and finished the drilling for me. The result was a hole that a 5/8 bolt would fit through, but was more or less "egged" allowing the bolt to wobble around. As the old saying goes, if you want the job done right.....ask NPORA
I really don't want to trash another $25 bit or chance a less than perfect result. Give me some options!
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I had fun with it....that last level is a doosey
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I tried that, I just did not know when to stop choping! LMFAO
Woah, I need to get to work on that parts pathy of mine....
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Look exactly like my "Black Rock" 17's!
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You got a body lift from AC? My seat felt like it was popping when my weight would shift over a bump or hill. The drive shaft loop extensions made it so the loop was kind of in a neutral position, if you will, it wasn't resting firmly against the frame mount. Jabbed an old tire iron in there...good to go! Figured it would come in handy if for some reason I get knocked on my ass having to defend myself I can grab that iron and come out from under my pathy like Chuck Norris and wop a dude.
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How can yall talk about 30-06 and forget about the .308 or 7.62x51?!?!?! It's version II of the old 30-06. I'm extremely pleased with my Ruger in .308, tons of military surplus and a range of loading options.. Nothing is better IMHO, it's what I like. The long action of the 30-06 leaves something to be desired, especially for semi-auto applications.
I still shoot my old Swedish Mauser from 1911, 6.5x55, helluva old round with similar if not better loading characteristics as the .243
.357 for handguns is king in my book, still looking for that S&W Performance Center 627 that won't allow me to leave the gun show without it.
Love my .380 PPK/S SS(old interarms version), heavy snappy little thing always willing to perform. Cheap clean rounds are getting hard to find though..
My main shotty is a Mossberg 590(gotta love magnum 00), my bedside blast from the past is an 870 wingmaster that's been "short'ned" up a bit
Next on the list is an M1A, just having a hard time justifying the $$
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I think he may be referring to limited slip noise from the axle when backing out of a parking spot.
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Ya dude, if it's not right on one end I doubt it's right on the other...get what you paid for and exchange it!
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looks like @!*% to me
x2
Is that a ford grille that was cut to fit?
Definitely a ford f series grille up in there..
Not to mention the pool of fluids underneath it
But, if I had a 2001 X I was looking to build up, 3k for a parts truck and working goodies might be worth it !
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snorkel fail
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I had no problems with KMA. I have yet to beat on it....but I'll get there
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I say 4 door, but not because it's "newer". I'm a single guy and have no real need for the extra doors, but they sure are convenient. When I hit the dirt I usually have several people with me. The guys I roll around with have full size bronco's, I hate getting in and out of those things if I'm riding in the back. Instead of opening a door and jumping in there's all kinds of hassle with the seats and whatever may be in the way or whoever is in the front seat. I'll take the ease of access with four doors for my dog, passengers and whatever gear I'm carrying over a two door any day.
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Very cool, perfect the way it is! My dad would LOVE that thing...
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Just an update, I installed a filter relocation kit from Summit, went in no problem, works fine.
Replaced a working 02 from a parts truck, still get my CEL. Just have it unplugged for now, but will be installing a simulator to get correct A/F ratio and get rid of that light.
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Agree 100% that replacing boots is 10x the job of just swapping axles.
Can't say for sure on the quality of O'rielly CV's, but for $60 bucks a pop and lifetime replacement for a swap that takes less than hour.....
I've done both jobs. I won't be repairing boot's anymore thanks to the replacement guarantee, but if I hadn't already bought them and needed to save the money....time to get greasy and just buy some rubber.
Mmmmm, good
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95 SE 137k....still a baby
Another starting issue!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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No crank when the key is turned to the start position. It's hard to start when I manually send juice to the solenoid wire, I assume because my key isn't in the start position telling the ECU.