Cachefinder
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Posts posted by Cachefinder
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Hi there neighbor LOL.
Yeah the shipping cost more than the three rubber stops but I couldn't find any locally and would cost me as much in gas to go to a dealership that did have them.
Mine is a 5 speed and sure enough, all the rubber stops were gone except for the square one on the clutch pedal and the unused round one on the clutch pedal. As I mentioned earlier, my clutch interlock switch has been bypassed
since last year but I did notice that that one was gone too. I live just off the Peak Exit on 26.
-Chris
I'm back in the woods near Blacks Bridge off hwy 194. Getting ready to run up I26 to claim the kids in Pomaria, I usually take that exit to avoid the freeway and enjoy the country on 176...I'll toot my horn at ya on the fly-by!
Michael
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Thanks for the help. My local Nissan dealership wanted $5.25 for each OEM rubber stopper...and was out of stock. I ordered 3 from Z1 Motorsports in Georgia (I'm in South Carolina) for $3.23 each.
I borrowed one from the clutch pedal that did not have any switch (in the up position)and put it on the brake pedal for the brake lights for now. The back tab of course mostly broke off when I pried it off the clutch
pedal since its brittle from age...so I placed a dab of liquid nails adhesive on it to ensure it would stay in place for the time being on the brake pedal.
Seems that over the years, as of last night, ALL the rubber stoppers on all the pedals had broken off except for two of the three stoppers on the clutch pedal. The clutch interlock one was missing too but my interlock is bypassed anyway.
thanks again. (what stinks is, the shipping for these things costs more than the three rubber stoppers do!)
Irmo, SC...I'm just up the road in Prosperity/ work in Columbia. I have had the same problem recently and am waiting on a delivery from Nissan Parts Zone...Even cheaper but shipping would be a deal killer if you didn't need other stuff...As a temp fix I slapped in a couple of the cheap panel plugs...works like a charm.
Note too that if you have a 5-speed, there is a similar bumper on the clutch pedal that can prevent your truck from starting...
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ok, speaking of cruise control.....mph drop about 5mph when on cruise until it kicks into play & speeds back up. Is there anyway I can adjust something so the speed stays at a constant speed? My other Pathy isn't that bad. I'm curious if my bad knock sensor has something to do with it? I'm hoping to replace it this weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Sorry I'm late to the party but you might just need to adjust the cable where it attaches to the TB pulley. You can easily identify a slack cable by sight or wiggle it a bit. While your in there you might as well check/adjust the throttle cable too. They stretch over time, that is nearly 20 years old...Old truck might feel new again!
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I have the same problem on my 92. I did the voltage regulator fix and no change...Note that my temp gauge never was whacked out...I'm thinking sending unit but that is relatively expensive and I'll likely try to clean contacts and anything else I can find to try and fix what I have instead of dropping $$$ so the needle will read correctly instead of always being 1/4 tank low. Mine is very consistent so no real worries of running out of fuel...
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Also, in hilly country, especially when towing, it is a good idea to disengage the overdrive. It is better for the tranny and the VG30 motor has no issues with revving high.
Personally I run 10-40 oil out here in Cali.
B
I live just down hill from the OP in South Carolina...been running 5W-30 for years (got my 92 SE new in 92) but I had some 10w-40 I needed to get rid of and it substantially quieted down/eliminated the valve-train chatter I had before. That is with ~323000 miles. I'll likely stick with that...since I got 20MPG on that first tank of gas.
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if you go to a u-pull-it type yard, you can see what you are getting first hand...
I'd call the stealer just because I like to know how much jack I just saved not buying it there...
I would also like to think you would do fine with a NPORA member but you have to add shipping to overall cost then (at least I would since I am a lone dot on the map for South Carolina LOL!
Hood pins...really?
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I hope thats a good thing?? haha
I'm pretty sure it is...
Thanks for the additional pics, that really helps get a better idea of how you put it all together. I couldn't see if it had a bottom at all but that is slick...and I especially like the adapter brackets...I know you bought them but I think after seeing them they could be fabbed too.
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I really like that rack! Trenton163, can you post pics showing the view from the top and the lighting area better/closer...I see one similar in my future
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I do what I'm asked to do, my wife says this and it's true, that I go to work to work less than when I'm home !! LOL
That is absolutely true for me...most days anyway. The days I have to do paid work with my body AND my brain number too few...
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My real toy...1998 Volvo V70 T5 - Obviously not stock
Partial list of modifications...Turbo-Tuner,18T, custom 3" downpipe w/ Volvo 2.75" sport catback - both wrapped and coated, IPD RIP, IPD aluminum intercooler, IPD intake w/ K&N cone, R ex. manifold, , gasket matched & polished intake manifold w/ thermoblock spacer, n/a TB w/ 960 plate, Optima bluetop, MSD 6aD and blaster coil, IPD plug wires, modified upper and lower tranny mounts, IPD poly bushing, Koni FSD w/ Eibach springs, IPD sways 25mm x 25 mm, blue silicone vac, silicone coolant lines, custom intake tubes grill to turbo, skid plate, front lower brace, cherry turbo strut brace, HD endlinks, 302mm brakes, Zeitronix wide-band/data-logger,. In process: Home grown HD Endlinks, Meth/H2O injection, variable fpr, greens, catch can, fully built 2.3
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LOL, you guys are funny...I just searched for "black box" yesterday and found the answer to my (unrelated) question on the second page of the search results. Turns out my black box is the ABS controller...but now If I run across one of these little boogers, I'll already know what it is...
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Not 100% sure with the pathy but with other cars I have it it is electrically disconnected it just makes the anti-lock portion of the brakes inoperable but otherwise they work fine, power and all. Likely no damage. Possibly some link between the ECU and ABS module but my guess would be its just to communicate ABS faults and trigger the ABS light...but this is speculation.
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Really you need to see IF you need a new motor before you go down that road...I have 325000+ on mine and it is still strong. Start with that compression test, or even better a leakdown test. Then you need to look at many of the basic tune-up items that might, when failing, result in your symptoms. Many have already been mentioned.
fuel system components, clogged injectors (sonic clean them for ~$20 each), ignition components- its amazing how new plugs/cap/rotor/wires will wake up a tired truck that is in need of ignition update. PCV valve, vacuum hoses on these old mules dryrot and cause all kinds of crazy symptoms. I wish I could find a decent silicone vacuum line kit for mine (or at least a shopping list for by the foot) LOL!
As a band-aid you could try heavier weight oil to help with compression issues if you have them, but that will not work long term.
But don't throw out the baby with the bath water...
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Great work sorting that mess out! You could get carpet from the pull a part too...Old carpet would make it look original! New carpet would make me want to drive barefooted
so it is a toss-up -
Hi everyoene,
I had a sad day with my 95 SE-V6 yesterday.....There is a rust hole in the drivers side floor just below the gas pedel area, which is just above the exhaust pipe. In the past it had melted the rubber of the carpet, but I put some metal in there and it seemed to stop the melting. Well yesterday on the highway I was towing my trailer, and I guess the exhaust temp get hotter than usual, and the carpet started smoking bad, and before I even had a chance to pull over there were a few flames comming out the side by the shifter area. I was able to stop the flames, and the when all the smoke cleared, I had a badly burned carpert, melted air dict, and three burned wires. I also noticed that I lost my clock, radio,interior light, brights indicator, fog lights, pass side headlight, brights, and the door open light was lit on the dash (no door was open). When I got it home I replaced the three burned wires by the shifter (yellow, purple, and I forget the third color), but it did not get anything working. So then I checked the fuse box, and all the fuses are fine except the 10amp interior light fuse. As soon as you replace the fuse, the new fuse burns out in seconds. Any ideas as to what to check, or where to start?
This makes me sad because I think this might be the end of our 16 year love affair, as I am the original owner. There is so much rust on my truck that it would cost a huge amount to fix it, as well as the frame has already been patched. It needs a good amout of mechanical work as well.
When I think back over the years, I have had a great time with my Pathie....so many fun memories that I will cherish forever! I hope that I can get it back together because this would be a terrible way for it to come to an end.
Zack
Don't give up hope yet...I know how you feel being the original owner of my '92, it really is much like a love affair.
I'll bet the third wire is green...that would be the fog light switch mounted on the center console. It is routed under the carpet in that area...
Sounds like more fried wiring is causing shorts galore...gotta fix that before wasting any more fuses.
With that much damage you may want to go to a self service bone yard and pull replacements (wire harnesses, carpet, trim etc...). You get the added advantage to see how all the pieces go together before you rip yours apart...
Buy a cheap welder and save her!
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I've been lurking on this thread for a while but had to jump in with props after seeing that last batch of pics...Looks a lot like my turbo Volvo project car under the hood...Simply amazing!
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What on earth were you doing there?!
I want!
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That's cool, I figure if the information is available why recreate the wheel. Since I'm piddling on this truck, and have alternative transportation, that won't be an issue...time often is and I'll try and save it where I can... Once I figure the measurements out, I'll post my results here for anyone else interested...that will be a good starting point.
...most of all, thanks to you and 88 (and others) for laying the groundwork for this and other worthwhile and reasonably cheap modifications.
I'd never figure out stuff like this on my own. Question, did you weld the spacer to the adjustment bracket once you were satisfied with the setup?
Cheers!
Michael
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More stupid Q´s.... terrana automatic oil drain plug gasket is it some kind of spesial model or what??? It drops oil on drainplug even thow i change the casket the new one copper. I dont dare to tighten it anymore so there must be some other solution. And in here i cannot find original drainplug casket anywhere...Help!!!!!
Not familiar with that vehicle but you could try an aluminum crush washer...replace at every oil change. They do not require as high a torque to crush to a good seal as copper. Repeated over-torquing your drain plug will damage the threads and they will leak.
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hey Nissannut.com has atly swap writeups so you can see those pics too...
Those are some good pics and good information...
I'm working through this mod to my 92 Pathy. I have a 95 Villager 110amp alternator that I got at the Pull-a-part for ~$20 / tested good at Advanced Auto. Cleaned up and sitting on my garage floor. Got all the junk out of the way thanks to it being timing belt replacement time...perfect time to do this upgrade along with the headlight/relay modification (I finished that this weekend).
Anyway...I noted some differences in the approach RedPath88 took vs the Nissannut.com write-up.
Main difference was that Red spaced the alternator where NN spaced the pulley. Seems to me that spacing the pulley using ordinary garage tools is asking for a wobbly-pulley which can not be good. Also NN revised the install to include grinding/sanding down the casing and adding a washer to reposition the pulley.
It seems to me that Red's approach is a bit better/easier.
The missing element in this write-up is the proper sizing of the spacers and the new dimensions to cut/modify the bracket.
Does anyone have an idea what these various dimensions might be??? It would be nice to include that and the size belt that fits with this modification so it will be more or less idiot proof for those of us who are...challenged
Thanks,
Michael
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Tried cleaning my resistor, and i did find the problem, the radiator is clogged with greasy dust, fricken hard to get that @!*% out of the fins, i cleaned a small area but to do anymore i would need to remove the whole thing, and i dont know if that is easy or not?
It is not too bad and I bet it is time for new coolant anyway...
Remove fan shroud (6 screws) and fan (4 nuts). The fan is not required but it does give you more working room. Drain coolant and dispose of properly. Undo the coolant hoses, upper and lower. Remove 2 bolts from top holding the radiator to the two brackets on the front support. Tilt back and lift out. Fire up the pressure washed and gently blow that crap on out. If you have AC and/or AT oil cooler you might want to pull the grill and pressure wash those too. I am 5-spd but I do the AC without removing... Then I use the opportunity to wash the remainder of the garage floor
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I get between 18 and 20 mpg in mixed driving. Completely stock mechanically although I sense headers in my future. It is a '92 5-spd w/~325,000 miles...one owner.
BTW...to the guy who posted testing 91 octane gas...forget it. Higher octane only allows you to run higher ignition timing without knock/detonation and if your engine ecu is not tuned for it, it will at best cost you more money for same/similar performance, at worst cost you more $ for lower mpg and power.
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I'm about to do the 310,000mile oil change on my 92 bought new and runs like a champ.
I just picked up a 90 for $500 that has 249,000 and runs like crap but runs.
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yozsi did you modify that grill guard from a different vehicle application?
Looks like a stock Warn mount to me...I got one just like it...
My truck is the same color too. Now I'm drooling over those bars...I still have factory nerf bars but mine does not go into serious off road places...just romping on our place, mostly dirt paths created by the pathy...
I think I have some of that stock lying around.
Pretty good gas mileage
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Yesterday I finished a 600 mile trip running 75-80mph where possible loaded with ~800lbs persons and gear, heavy steel cargo rack hanging off the back, heavy Warn winch and mount hanging on the front, and AC on the whole trip...got 20mpg. Truck has ~325,000 one owner miles.