here4now
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Posts posted by here4now
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Not to be rude or anything but you get what you pay for. You can't expect to buy any car for $500 and expect it to be perfect can you?
I would expect just as many problems as you stated or more when purchasing a $500 car/truck. Unless you were just by chance very lucky.
Just my .02
VERY inaccurate statement when it comes to buying cars.
I buy and sell cars fairly frequently, and most of them are of the $500 variety. typically they need a CV axle and some a good cleaning for them to be good to go. sometimes more, but not all that often.
in June I bought a 94 Dodge Caravan for $300. Do you know what it needed? a drivers seat and an A/C recharge. If it hadn't been totaled in an accident I'd still be happily driving it. it came with ALL the paperwork from BRAND new. and it ran perfectly.
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$80 isnt bad...a coworker just lost about $2k on a mustang that he couldn't get smogged in CA
true, it's not bad for most people. beats out the loss from buying a newer car
Heck sorry to see you go over that. Mine had a shopping list of issues but that's just me. Good luck on your next automotive adventure. Maby next one will keep you hanging around for longer than a month.it has usability issues that I didn't realize / think about when I bought it.
it is highly unlikely I'll be back in this section. newer one maybe when they get down to $500 :-P
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$500 ain't bad for what you got...at least ya didnt really loose a whole lot of $ on it
the horn may have been an easy fix (mine quit working when the lil copper electrode wore down and I put some washers under the contractor ring to make it contact again)
I know a guy who got an 88 for 2 beer bottle tops (b.c thats what was in his pocket) he hated the truck but it was a good stand in for his WRX since hew as going on his 5th engine (the guy building it was a moron but replaced all of them for free) he's now had the truck for 3 years and still will not give it up for anything even though he bashed it for a while and it looks like a huge red turd with creased sheet metal all around
I lost $80. I haven't lost that kind of money on a car in a while
typically I make money on my cars.at least part of my horn issue was that there was no plastic under the pad. :eek:
oh, just an FYI to all, the 92 G20 steering wheel looks identical to the 94 Pathfinder steering wheel except for the Infiniti logo in the center.
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I will be sending my friend john over to this board though.
He also has a 94 Pathy almost identical to the one I sold.
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Sorry to hear, but that's quite a laundry list of issues to overcome. I can see why you didn't try to address them.
Thats why I'll pay a more for a vehicle with few/no known problems. and use that as a base.
As for underpowered, yeah, some people complain about that...
Best of luck and maybe see you in the future.
B
I'm used to buying cheaper cars that need work and having the work done, but 6 months ago I lost my work space so I haven't quite gotten out of that mentality yet.
I am looking at a 93 maxima SE, but it has 2 misses. it's nothing new to me though, I've had 4 of them so far
doubt I'll get it though, it needs brakes/brake lines, plus a battery plus most likely 2 injectors.time to keep looking
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slick i think you meant not so far future...
do you mind me asking what you paid for it? the things listed if you were mechanically inclined would have probably only $400 max to fix yourself but I guess what's done is done...
Did you check the vehicle out before purchasing or was this like an ebay deal?
Hope you get something thats a little better be it another pathy or other make/model
I paid $500 for it.
I put $180 into tires plus $20 to install one of them (other 3 were free)
$85 for the starter plus $50 to install the second defect
$60 for front pads (late night AZ purchase by a friend who thought I was going to keep it long term)
I did check the truck out when I bought it, I just didn't pull the tire to see the caliper issue as the brakes felt fine.
It ran rough, but I just assumed it was a rough running motor, not a miss (which really isn't a big deal).
The stupid side of me didn't check the tires. Starter was going when I looked at it, and I knew it had no speakers, but didn't catch the horn issue until after I bought it.
The tire carrier was off the truck when I bought it so didn't know it was seized.
Live and learn.
I'm sure I will get something better, this truck was an anomaly in my car history.
normally I buy a car, drive it for a while and sell it for a profit. if it wasn't for the dam starter I would have made money on it in the long run.
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Don't go away mad.
I'm not going away mad, the vehicle was a lemon that's all. It was a learning experience, that reminds me not to buy a car with bald tires.
Just curious:What was wrong with it...
What did get for it $?
Mileage:
Year:
starter bad
rear caliper held in by 1 bolt with frozen slides
IAC not functional
no speakers
no horn
frozen rear tire carrier
hatch and window struts bad
Door locks wonky (if you locked it, good luck opening it again)
No rear frame
rust
A/C belt off
possible miss
unknown age of timing belt
and those are the issues that I knew of.
I got $750 for it.
150k
1994 SE V6 offroad package
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it's been fun, but I sold my nightmare last night, so I seriously doubt I will be back on this forum. I may end up in one of the newer sections in the future. if I get a VQ pathy, the VGs are way too underpowered to me.
Thank you to every one who has helped me with the nightmare.
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what was the time span between the starter replacements? Were they new or refurbs?
Look at the common point... many starters, single electrical system. I would chase the voltages first and make sure you are getting what's expected on the trigger wire and only when you want it.
When you pulled your old starters, did you happen to bench test them either yourself or at a local autozone or such?
If it isn't cranking and you pull it, slap 12V to the big lug, ground the case to the body then run a jumper over to the solenoid and it screams like a scared little girl, you have a problem in your elec circuit.
time span between install and failure was less than a week.
I bought the truck on the 11th of december. Sold it last night.
They were refurbs
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im running 30 x 9.5 Definity Dakotas on my 93. I wanted to go with 31's but wasnt sure if they would rub. For whatever reason, my front end sags a bit and when i get it inspected here in PA, they never tell me my shocks are blown. Go figure.
front end sag does not necessarily have anything to do with shocks. Have you tried adjusting your torsion bars?
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oops I guess I wasn't clear. it is 3 separate starters. not 3 separate instances.
Indigent, the OPS was replaced when we pulled the starter the first time because the connector got damaged.
K9sar, I am trying to figure out if there is something that could be killing the starters that rapidly.
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my starter has failed for a 3rd time.
starter 1: would click but no crank most of the time, sometimes it would crank over just fine.
starter 2: started just fine about 5 times then it just started to spin continuously even with the key off until I whacked it, then it stopped.
starter 3: started just fine about 3 times then it just started to spin continuously even with the key off until I disconnected the battery, even after whacking it several times.
What the fark could be causing this? am I just having that bad of luck with these 2 remans? is it some electrical thing that I don't see in the wiring diagram?
I am not that far off from putting full coverage on the truck and throwing a match in the gas tank!!
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tranny dead.
Rear end about to get sore.
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Howdy,
Some clueless gal backed into my 94'. Any recommended suppliers for stock front bumper and ancillary brackets? There are quite a few online places. Better would be anyone in the Portland Oregon area.
thx
look in the phone book under auto parts?
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I've seen others use a 240SX wheel. No clue on CC operation but I bet it'd be fairly easy to make it work out OK.
my main concern is whether it uses a slip ring system (i.e. 89-91 maxima) or clock spring system like most airbag wheels (I.e. 93-94 maxima)
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I have a 94 pathfinder with the cruise buttons on the side of the wheel like nissan's later cars with airbags.
2 questions:
1. does anyone have a pic of how the cruise buttons connect to the column?
2. can I use an early 240sx wheel with the buttons in the wheel as a direct bolt on and keep my cruise?
my cruise does currently work but my horn doesn't and the center cover isn't held on by anything.
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Why would you want to go smaller? I got better gas mileage with my 31's even.
235 is narrower, which will net better traction in the snow.
235 will also allow better throttle response because of better torque multiplication and lighter rotating mass.
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don't bother googleing the reviews, the shocks that feel good in one car may feel like garbage in another. KYB is a reputable brand, they should be just fine.
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don't forget how much tires affect sway as well.
I significantly reduced my vehicle sway just by changing tires on my truck.
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Can you shoot me a copy of that manual too? darrin_shacklett@yahoo.com I am pretty new to the Pathfinder scene and mine has quite a few problems. I am sure this manual would come in handy. I have a 94 SE model
http://rapidshare.com/files/45424771/1994_Pathfinder.zip
PW = pdftown.com
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It says 4x4x4 on the lower part of the door. I have seen this on a few other Pathfinders (exactly the way it is on mine) so I don't think it is some generic sticker.
Well, I found a set of tires on stock "lego" rims for $100. That was cool but the thing still rides like a boat, kinda shifty from side to side front to back when driving down the road. I think it may need new shocks and I can tell it needs a front end alignment because the front tires are slanted pretty bad. I am probably going to change the steering stabilizer as well just for good measure. Then I will start on getting the engine to actually run correctly.
I am sure I will be throwing out MANY questions when I get into that.
the side to side float is typically crappy tires with too soft of a sidewall. The alignment that you mention needing is part of the problem as well.
FWIW, if you need any new chassis parts give me a ring and I'll see what I can do for you.
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^ it's an auto...that's interesting. Now that I think about it, it started doing this after I upgraded to 31's.
as long as all 4 tires match in physical size, it should not have affected it other than the speedometer/odometer reading in accurately.
the only reason I know about the VSS being different for the 2 tire sizes is because I was considering going down from 31s to 235s when I replaced my tires 2 weeks ago.
anyone near chicago want to trade their like new 235s and VSS for my like new 31s and VSS?
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Just quoting the FSM...
I've never heard of people changing them when changing wheel size.
B
people don't do lots of things they should do.
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Apparently your Pathy thinks so...
"Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): The vehicle speed sensor provides a vehicle speed signal to the ECM. The speed sensor consists of a reed switch, which is installed in the speedometer unit and transforms vehicle speed into a pulse signal."
You may have to replace the speedo unit. Try removing the gauge cluster assembly and checking the connections and tightening the small screws in the rear (ground) first.
B
WHAT?
the VSS sends the signal to the ECU as well as the dash, if it's setting a code then it needs to be checked and if necessary replaced.
Didn't notice if you had an A/T or M/T, I know on the A/T there are 2 different ones depending on tire size (31s or other).
good bye
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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actually around here the difference between a $500 car and an $800 car is whether or not it needs brakes and how fast you buy it. if you are quick you get it for $500 if not it gets sold by someone else for $800.