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Z_Pilot

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Posts posted by Z_Pilot

  1. This will be my third one in 14 years :happy:

     

    Needed for: Alaska

     

    Budget:

    $3500 max

    (prefer $2000 to $2500)

     

    Maintenance:

    Prefer to have timing belt already done.

    Prefer to not have exhaust mani bolt problems.

    Don't feel comfy with more than 175,000 miles

    Not rusted out.

     

    Must haves:

    5-speed manual

    4x4

     

    Like to have:

    2 door

    already lifted

     

     

    Location-

    I am in the Portland, Oregon metro area.

    I am shopping this area and suburbs, will look in Salem, Eugene.

    I would travel to the Seattle area for a great rig\great deal.

     

    Where I am shopping:

    Craigslist.org

    Autotrader.com

    Cars.com

     

    Point me out to any good buys you all come across!

     

    Also give me your opinion on some of the rigs I post in this thread!

     

    It's up to you all to keep me in a Nissan!!

     

    Thanks!

     

    ZP

  2. Wow. I've been away from the Pathy community since I sold my rig in February. I had L&P's stage three kit. It was a great product and shipped fast.

     

    Nonetheless, I returned to their website to see where they were with S\C kit just for sh*ts & gig*l*s and noticed that it had disappeared.

     

    What's the latest?

    Phil's last post was in June...

     

    ZP

  3. I loved my CLAMINI shocks that came with the lift kit. With my wonderful situation lately, they are nolonger on the truck and now I have Rancho RS5000's. Don't really want to knock them cause Rancho is a good brand/company, but not liking them over the CALMINI's. Does anyone know who manufactures CALMINI's shocks? Just curious!

     

    Who makes Calmini's shocks?

    Are they Ranchos?

    Monroe's?

  4. :clap:

     

    I think thats the 1st pathy ive seen with the nissan on the hood...  Like the grill too :beer:

    Hey thanks.

     

    It was a relatively easy and cheap mod.

     

    The hood was a later D21 (1997) and it was only $95 from parts-train.

    The grille was $40 I think.

     

    The only problem is that the grille does not mate to the corner lights perfectly. I guess the D21's had some slight difference there. It does not really bother me though.

     

    It also allowed me to put in some IPF headlights and bulbs which made a huge difference.

     

    Z

     

    ps- the "nissan" hood emblem came from Courtesey Parts. It is a black chrome emblem they sell for the 350z.

  5. I got the IPF headlights from Quadratec. I had to convert to the D21 front end, but that was a bonus.

     

    The hood and headlight bracket camr from Partstrain.com.

    Hood: $95, Brakets: $18 each

     

    The headlights and bulbs came from Quadratech.com.

    IPF Rectangular headlights: $80 (pair)

    IPF "Fatboy-super-low-beam bulbs: $75 (pair)

     

    The difference is astonishing!

    The headlights are engineered very well, and throws the lights better than regular Rectangular housings.

     

    The bulbs are not rice-rocket blue...but the light is a little whiter than normal halogens. The high beam is really bright, but the low-beam is just amazing. The best thing about the bulbs is that they're not high-wattage...won't attract the cops, piss other drivers off, and won't fry a stock wiring harness. The bulbs are 60w I think.

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06049640x480.jpg

     

    I would do it again

    Z_Pilot

  6. It's my Pathy's 100,000 mile birthday! :P

     

    Some friends and I just happened to plan a day-trip to south-point, the most southern point of the USA on the Big Island of Hawaii. By chance luck, she turned 100k only 4 miles shy of the actual point:

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06018640x480.jpg

     

    Yup, I made a big deal of it, at the exact moment of 100,000 miles, all hell broke broke

    loose...complete with honking the horn, pulling over, and taking pictures :laugh:

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06016640x480.jpg

     

    We celebrated her birthday by letting her do what she likes most:

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06051600x450.jpg

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06055450x600.jpg

     

    And, of course, she had to pose for some special birthday pictures:

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06047600x450.jpg

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06044600x450.jpg

     

    To finish the day, we had refreshments here:

     

    SouthPoint27Sep06076600x450.jpg

     

    Now all I have to do is hit the most Eastern (Maine?), Western (AK) & Northern (AK)

    bars in the country -alcohol-

     

    :secret: Am I a dork or what :rolleyes:

     

     

     

     

    ....Share your Pathfinder's 10,000 - 50,000 - 100,000 - 200,000 birthday stories......

  7. Quick update one L&P's kit.

     

    Lee just got married and got a new (primary) job.

    The VG30I kit is very close to being released.

    The VG30E kit should come next year.

     

    I am not an inside man, this is just what Lee told me in an email.

    I don't have any more info than that.

     

    Z

  8. Ouch. :blink:

     

    Trying not to get raped in Hawaii.

     

    Of the two garages recommended to me above, one did not want to touch it for 6 weeks+.

     

    The guy at the other shop was nice (Umeno's), but I think I am realizing that he is taking me for a ride. His grand total was $3000 :contract:

     

    The machine shop he uses wants $860 to rebuild the heads, not including the valves!

    He charges 10 hours of labor at $95 an hour to take them off and put them back on!

    He said that the top end gasket set would run me $450!

    He recommended other "add-ons" (most of which I don't disagree with) but, for example, $150 for spark plug wires :crazy:

     

    Gawd, living in Hawaii is exspensive, I know, and I realize that people need to charge more to cover higher living exspenses...but this is insane! :eek:

     

    Realize this is a Mom&Pop operation out of a house garage.

     

    A quick search online and eBay gives me a set of rebuilt heads for $280 shipped & top-end gasket set for $225. I need to find a mechanic that will do this as a side job for $500 labor...then I can survive.

     

     

    So, with that said, I need your help with a technical question:

     

    Which cylinder head casing part # do I need for my 1995 SEV6?

     

    > L85E

    > R85E

     

    ...as seen here: eBay cylinder head #1

     

    or the:

     

    > RV52

     

    ...as seen here (written on a head, in a picture):

    eBay cylinder head #2

     

    Thanks again guys! WAVEY

     

    Z

  9. BTW-

     

    I drove the Pathy 100 miles to Kona...on 4 cylinders, I think.

    I don't think the valves were hitting the piston, but who knows?

     

    Question:

     

    With the next phase of this situation, which route is the best option \ most cost-effective?

     

    A> Have the shop replace the damaged valves and associated gaskets only. ...Reduce the potential for more wear on the rest of the engine (new heads + old engine > rings, gaskets, etc)

     

    B> Would it be better in the long run to just order a re-man set of heads from the mainland ($400 - 600)?

     

    C> Should I turn this bad situation into a good situation and get L&P rebuilt polished & ported heads? Would i risk blowing the rings on a 100,000 mile engine?

     

    Thanks for your opinions :clap:

     

    Z

  10. Hey Z, don't forget that the mechanics I suggested are on the Kona side and NOT Hilo.

    You Sure?

     

    Hualalai Garage

    77 Maluhia St # 6069

    Hilo, HI 96720

     

    (808) 324-4772

     

    SAVE LISTING | WRITE A NOTE

     

    Hualalai Garage

    Keauhou, HI 96739

     

    (808) 329-8993

     

     

    * EDIT: There is a Hualalai Garage over here :rolleyes: So much for online technology...the 'ol phone book is correct.

     

    Yellowpages.com and googlemaps are showing that they're on the other side of the island.

     

    However,

     

    Umenos Auto Repair

    76-5913 Mamalahoa Hwy

    Holualoa, HI 96725

     

    (808) 324-4791

     

     

    It looks like these guys are over here on the west side.

    Perhaps I should consult with some old technology (phone-book).

     

    Nonetheless, thanks! :aok:

    (I've gotta work today...I'll get in touch with them tomorrow).

  11. Quick update from Oregon (be back in Hawaii in a couple days):

     

    I had Nissan replace the timing belt and tensionor assembly after talking to one of their techs. The tech has seen many belts go on the VG30E...typically found NO valve damage. Perhaps they were playing me for $, I dont know, but the valves are indeed F-ucked up.

     

    I think i will drive it back to Hilo and contact one of the meachanics that Rennwerkes (THANKS!) suggested to pop on some rebuilt heads.

     

    In the meantime, in an attempt to turn this lemon situation into lemonade, I emailed L&P and asked if they can send me some rebuilt heads that are ported and polished....

     

    I'll keep you all posted!

     

    Z

  12. Plan A:

     

    I think that I am going to see what they will do for me as far as working with my NC mechanic. I recently learned that there are laws that do indeed protect me for faulty maintanence that results in disasters like this. The shop may be motivated because they will go after my NC guy for the $$ (under law) and it will help me because I won't have to pay for the whole bill.

     

    Plan B:

     

    Ask them to do a leak-down test or stick a boroscope in the spark plug holes.

     

    Plan C:

     

    If I do have valave damage...which seems to be likely, go with reman heads and not worry about replacing the whole engine...depends on cost I suppose.

     

     

     

    What do you guys think about reman heads?

    Where to get them?

    How many labor hours to install?

     

    Thanks Again!

    Z

     

     

     

     

     

    PS- I'll be at my "other" home in OR for the next week. It may take me a few days to get back to this thread...but I do sincerely appriciate all your contributions. :aok:

  13. A leak down test can be done without the belt. The valves must be closed to do this, but that can easily be done by turning the cam (if the cover is removed) or better by loosening the rocker arms (as is recommended in the FSM as part of the belt replacement). If it were me (and I couldn't do the work myself) I'd find a shop that knows more about engines than what they are able to read in a book (probably colored in the pictures as well). - my 2 cents

    HaHa...I am not a mechanic, but I knew that there was a way to do a compression test without spending $1200 big ones to halfway fix a broken motor.

     

    Z

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