ToddtheRobot
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Posts posted by ToddtheRobot
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Yep, then you'd have another 3" in the rear. Coils = suspension. Body is its own ballgame.
So would the front sit down a little lower? Can you just crank the torsion bars to match?
Also, a little more info......
What year and model JGC?
Estimated time?
Tools needed?
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A 3" body or suspension lift? The JGC coils won't lift you any more if you already have some 3" lift coils in the back. (from AC or Calmini or whatever)
Sorry, it's a body lift.
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I have a 3"lift right now, would the JGC coils actually lift even further or no?
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No, like 88 says, 3+3 = 33. And you're gonna have to sawzall the hell out of your fenders to get them to fit.
What's with everyone and 33s? 31s aren't exactly puny, y'kno.
I think it's to make up for the puny horsepower
I have 31's on mine with the 3" body lift and 15x10 wheels. Just curios if it's the width or the height of the tires that cause the problems.
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Just curios about your lift. Is that 3 inch body and 3 inch suspension? I am wondering if I can fit 33's with my 3 inch body lift .
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YAY!!!!! It was indeed the corroded fusible link
And to think I only had to pay 250 for towing and a new distributor 
But hey, Doris now runs great So, for all of you guys who may have this problem sometime, buy the Chiltons manual and trace the wire from the inectors to fusible link back to the battery and check for corrosion. I am also developing a new theory on Pathfinder mechanics....... I will call it Todd's Razor. It states that if something is wrong it is normally the cheapest and easiest part you can find.
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If you remove the distributor, plug it in and spin the base gear(ignition on), you should be able to hear the injectors clicking as it triggers them...
Well, I think I may have found my problem. I looked at the wiring diagrams for awhile last night, and noticed that there is an in line fuse running from the injectors to the battery terminal. Traced the wire and had continuity from the injectors to the inline fuse, but no continuity from the inline fuse to the terminal. Looked a little harder and the connectors were corroded as hell. Got'em soaking in baking soda paste right now. Hopefully that will do her.
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Well, out in a new distributor, and it still doesn't work. Checked the wiring harness to the ECU and everything looks fine. The fact that the ECU says nothing is wrong kinda makes me wonder if my ECU is actually working correctly. It seems to be going through the modes correctly and shows 55. Does anyone know if an ECU will do that even if it is bad? And does anyone know about how much a salvage yard normally charges for an ECU for a 94 M/T 4x4?
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Verify that the fuel pump is actually working. Pull the top hose off the fuel rail and either attach a long hose or use a small catch-can to put the existing hose in. Turn on the key, you should get fuel at a rather fast rate if the pump's working right. Watch out for spray.
yeah, I've done that a few times. The pump is working great, I replaced the Fuel filter, plugs are getting spark, starting fluid starts and then dies. I was reading about the crank angle sensor, and it seems like it may be the problem. I know it works with the fuel and ignition system. I don't know if there is anyway to test it once it's been removed.
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Have you actually run the computer diagnostic to check for codes? Didn't see that mentioned above.
Sorry, yeah. It came up 55. No Malfunctions. I am really lost, and don't want to have to take it to a shop.
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How many miles does the truck have on it?
148,000
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you sure the fuel pump is actually pumping?
i know nothing about crank angle sensor... but 88 and others do.. might want to search the forums.. it has been talked about before...
Positive that it's pumping. Disconnected it from the filter, and the pressure was good. I just think that since it suddenly stopped working, it couldn't be the O2 sensor or dirty injectors.
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Will it run if you shoot starting fluid into the intake?
i tried the starting fluid yesterday and had no luck. haven't checked my fuses, but i don't think it's a fuse. does anyone know much about the computers in the pathy's?
Today the fluid worked, but it died after spraying stopped. Know anything about the crank angle sensor? Or any other ideas? It's driving me nuts.
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any ECU codes? (sticky in this forum)
Thanks man.Just checked the ECU and it flashed me a 55. So, no malfunctions. But, I have gotten it to start with the starting fluid, it's just dying immediately. I think it might be the crank angle sensor. Does anyone know anything about these? Or how to test it?
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My '94 won't start. It's some kind of fuel problem. Pump pressure is fine, I replaced the filter, and the relay is working fine. Tried Starting fluid yesterday and nothing. Just replaced plugs and wires, and they are getting spark. Does anyone know about the computers in the pathy's? I'm wondering if that is what it is. Or the injectors? Please help with any input you might have.
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Will it run if you shoot starting fluid into the intake?
i tried the starting fluid yesterday and had no luck. haven't checked my fuses, but i don't think it's a fuse. does anyone know much about the computers in the pathy's?
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It engages. I know it's a fuel problem of somekind. Just not what kind yet.
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My Pathy decided not to start. The battery and alt. are fine. I replaced the plugs and wires about 3 weeks ago, and they are all getting spark. Fuel pump is pumping fine, pump relay is working and I replaced the filter right after it wouldn't start hoping that was it. So it has got to be a problem after the fuel filter. It's acting like it wants to start, just can't for some reason. I'm thinking an injection problem or computer problem. If anyone has ever heard of this or might have some input it would be greatly appreciated.
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so did I, but it didn't work on my 94. gonna have to be welded
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[so, it won't turn over, but it runs for 3-4 seconds? Your logic eludes me.]
Sorry about that, probably a little too hard to read between the lines on that one. I should have said that when I normally try to start it, it won't turn over. However, if I pop start it, it will run for 3-4 seconds and act like it's getting no fuel. But this morning I went to start it and she "[TURNED RIGHT OVER]," and has been running fine.
Sorry for using all kinds of "ELUSIVE" logic.
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my low beams work fine, but i normally don't have hi-beams. occasionally one will work, but thats rare. anyways, if i wanted to clean the contacts, i would clean down at the steering column rather than the switch, correct?
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it doesn't seem to be a starter problem, it just acts like it's getting no fuel.
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that happened to me a few years back, and actually turned out to be the starter relay. so also check that. i learned that the hard way. put in a new starter, and it was still broken. turns out, i could have spent 5 bucks instead if 155.
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i lifted my pathy about a week ago, and went to start it today, but it wouldn't turn over. it would start for about 3-4 seconds and i couldn't give it any gas. i'm hoping it's just shavings from the fuel filler hose that i cut, clogging the fuel filter.
any help would be much appreciated. thanks
No electrical power?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Got into my truck last night, turned the key and nothin. Only my headlights will come on. No dash lights, no fuel pump pumping, no brake lights, no interior lights, just headlights. Battery has plenty of power.If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.