92Pathmaker
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Posts posted by 92Pathmaker
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I got it pulled out, and was going to test it like the FSM says, but there is no way to get a meter to touch the terminals with the connector connected. (Like on page EC-133)
I forget exactly what it looks like, but where the wires go into the distributer there are a couple of screws you can take out then you can slide the pins from the meter under the rubber.
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Is the crank angle sensor that little electronic thingy under the rotor (under the cover) that goes around that metal disc with the slots? Help in by two screws?
That is it
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I run 91 because of the cams. I get 14mpg all city and usually 22-25mpg all highway
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I just put 5 liters of redline mt90 in this past summer. The tranny was just rebuilt about 30,000mi ago. I will go over the hydraulic lines and bleed it when I get a chance.
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I live at 9000' and when I go down to Denver I have trouble getting into 1st from a stop. If I am still rolling some it will usually slide right in. From a stop I will have to put it in 2nd or 3rd then go to 1st from there. The clutch reservoir is full. Could it be air in the lines? If so how many and where are the bleeders? It looks like there is one on the passenger side of the firewall. Are there more?
It is just weird how it works just fine in the mountains, but not down in the city
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Just pull the AC fuse.
keep it simple, right
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I took it off today, and no more whine. It looks like the bearing is just held in with a snap ring. I'm just going to change it out when ever I get a chance.
I didn't see many wires going to the compressor. one looked like a sensor and there was one black wire that could be disconnected easily. I want to cut the power to it so that it won't turn on to lube and seize up.
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Once it is above freezing on my day off I'll try greasing it, but I think that the bearing is shot because it just started all of a sudden.
What is OSH?
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There is a leak in my ac system so it wouldn't affect the defrost. I sprayed some wd40 on it two days ago and now it isn't making as much noise. I haven't had a chance to work on it yet, I've been too busy, maybe in the morning. What if I remove the pulley and belt, then disconnect the wiring harness so it doesn't kick on to lube up?
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I'll just take it off, I won't be needing AC until July anyway
Kingman, How much would you want for a pulley unit?
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A couple weeks ago driving down the pass I heard a whine that sounded like like bad gears or tranny. It was coming from the front and I was in 4wd, so thinking that it was the front diff I put it in 2wd and nothing changed. When I looked under the hood it sounds like it is coming from the pulley above the cooling fan or behind there in the timing area. The whine gets louder depending on RPMs. It doesn't matter if it is under load or not.
I don't know what this pulley is for or if this is a typical symptom of something about to break. Thanks for any help upfront.
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I'll have to call and ask them. That would be sweet to get JWT comp for 300
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Anyone know how this one would compare to the JWT upgrade? It is half the price and they say that they customize it to your mods too.
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Check out this link. This is the old school way, but the cheapest. You can get a one man bleeder kit and do it by yourself.
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They are on a bracket that is attached with 2 bolts on the outsides, about 8"apart. Both my 93 and 92 have had them.
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Get some 300Z studs
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Mine are welded and don't look like @!*%, well just where the rocks hit them.
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I wired in relays for my low beams, but not yet for the highs. Now they are pretty much the same brightness. It was well worth the few dollars
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I cleaned the contacts in my switch and brights work great. Sometimes only one will come on so I just switch it off then on again and all good. I would try just cleaning it first since a new one is like $50
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I just put Redline MT-90 in my gear box and t-case, and the 75w90 in the diffs. It is what most people recommend. It feels good and shifts easier than before. Just be sure to use a gl4 in the tranny
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Are the suspension parts on ebay any good? I would think at that price they wouldn't even make it down a trail. I would check out Rockauto.com for tierods and ball joints.
I heard somewhere that we can get beefier tierod ends from a Chevy or something. Does anyone know which truck?
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I like mine. I just put some Skyjaker nitro shocks on and had to cut them some. I just made the fat side the same as the other. The shock has clearance the full range now. They even dented the Calmini shock that came with them. I have heard that the new ones don't squeak any more. I just use a marine lube on mine once a year and they don't squeak.
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Here are the pics. I've gone wheeling a couple times since and There appears to be a least 1/4 inch clearance the whole range of motion.
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www.roninwheelers.com
This is a bunch of guys around Colorado. There is a bunch of good info and good people.
Stranded, won't start
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22081&st=0&p=389718entry389718
This worked for me when I changed mine.