HFXpathfinders
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Posts posted by HFXpathfinders
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Mod the relay. I had control over my fogs regardless of lights on, off, high, low. I used a ignition on source for the trigger to the relay. Check my how-to here
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I think I still have a switch if you want me to send it to you. You can have for the cost of S&H plus $2 (for a coffee). PM me with your address if you want it.
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Keep in mind that the OME HD springs give 1.5" of lift on a Path that is stock. Medium duty provide less. Given your additional weight, it would likely be .75" or less after the springs have settled. With 500 lbs of tongue weight from a trailer, my Path sat at ~ factory ride height with HD springs, but of course, this was with the weight further back on the hitch.
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^^ X2 likely an alignment issue or tires that are getting worn. When my tires were near death, the cabin noise was similar to a bad wheel bearing.
U-joints will not hum, they will make popping sounds and clunks when starting or stopping. The 3 most likely culprits are well worn tires, mis-alignment and wheel bearings that were not properly installed. The axle nut (when installing new bearings) is required to reach a certain torque to set the bearings and then be loosened and retorqued to a lower number for retention. If this process was not followed, your newer bearing are likely shot.
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So HFX, you had or still have the 300zx lsd up front?
So you did 3 wheel drive in the winter lol. That's one way of solving the understeer probelm.
I imagine 60 ftlbs + some extra additve would breakaway on snowy roads but not on ice or hardpack.
The Path is gone. A local guy took the front diff when I parted it out prior to going to the crusher. And yes, 3 wheeled in on-road slippery situations for 7 years. I ralely use 4WD in the snow on-road. Much more fun to fishtail that way!! My Path only gained 6k miles a year, so it was not a big deal to worry about. The benefits off-road more than made up for the 3-4 times a year I used 4WD in the snow on-road
As for including more additiove, it would have worked but then I would not have had the LSD for off-road. Kind of a trade off, lower break away, yes, but not what you want in the dirt & rocks.
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Selectable is available on a switch. Regardless if its electronic or air, its the same end result...the on switch is on, off is off. All others are varying degrees of mechanical type lockers with varying degrees of break away torque and this includes LSD.
If your end result is good traction in snow, get some decent studded tires and stop worrying about front lockers. They do more harm than good on road and suck a$$ above 30km/hr off-road. Trust me on this one. If it were not for the fact that the previous owner of my Path installed the LSD before I bought it, I would have removed it to re-install the OEM guts...but I didn't have the OEM on hand.
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They are not, I think he was posting the specs for info purposes. Where the OP was looking for additional traction in snow, it's hard to get to 60 or 100lbs in order to break-away the LSD. I loved my Pathfinder in the snow but the LSD (from a 300Z) made it utterly useless with the front end locked. Off road, great but I used only one hub engaged on the road. Not a big issue for me as snow covered roads happen less than 20-30 times a year here, but for someone in a snow belt...I would not recommend it for the front. Now selectable lockers are another storey
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As for adding a modifier, no. The modifier is an additive that makes the fluid more viscous ("slippery"). Unless your rear tires lock on dry pavement when taking a corner then you do not need to add any modifiers. I ran an aftermarker gear oil in my LSD rear diff for a week and the inside rear tire was chirping taking any corner at parking lot speeds...I needed the modifier, you do not.
You can't lock the front with any success on-road unless driving in a straight line. <--(period). As mentioned above the front end will push in any turn and the traction will be F'd. Previous posts noted frontal LSD but again in slippery situations (on-road) especially in corners they suck at anything over 20km/hr. LSD in the front is intended for off-road situations, not the majority of on-road with the front driveline engaged.
If you've ever driven a FWD vehicle in snow, you know what it like to push the gas an plow straight ahead, even on corners. Now add LSD or a locked rear and you have no control over the vehicle at all. Welded or selectable locked front ends are for off-road only at low speeds. Permanently locking your front-end will limit you to off-road only. In snowy conditions on-road, grab your snowshoes as you will not make it far above 30 km/hr! You'll join the multitude of minivans and other SUVs in the ditch.
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XE. SE & LE came with alloy rims. Only the XE came with chrome. I had the same options, though mine was a 96.
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The 3.75" BS is referring to running tires larger than 31's. 3.75" is required to prevent the inner part of the tire lugs from rubbing against the bottom of the strut coil perch. 31's or less and you'll be fine. KYB are your best choice for struts, their shocks are good. I ran KYB struts, OME rear shocks and OME coils all around and the ride was great. Very little topping out.
Search for ARB dealers in your area (if looking into OME)and get a price on them as you will not have to worry about duty & additional taxes on the S&H. KYB's are availabel in many places.
My .02
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I have one sitting in my shed if someone wants it, $100 + shipping and its yours. Send me a PM if interested. Mine is the OEM that bolts through the rear hatch. Here's a pic for reference.
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I think you may need a new tranny or a rebuild. The whirring noise you hear is the throw out bearing starting to go. The grinding is likely the syncros. Maybe the previous owner was not aware that Nissan Trannys require GL4 fluid, and they/their shop, used GL5 and it ate the syncros? Hard to tell for sure.
When you replace the fluid, if you find particles in the old stuff as you drain it. Don't put in the expensive synthetic. You'll only have to buy it again if indeed the tranny is shot...my .02
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I had a chance to see a set of headers for a WD21 off the rack and I compared the set up to the manifolds in the R50 and the difference was not worth the effort for me. The flange appears to have the same bolt pattern to match the head, so there is little issue there. The major issue was the angle of the collector to connect to the first set of Cats. A local muffler shop had stated that the work required to get the angle right would probably be as much if not more than the cost of a custom set.
Where I did not/do not have access to a welder, the cost was not worth the attempt & down time required. I believe that if you move forward, you will be the first with headers except for the few who have the Stillen models!
Good Luck, post back results!
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So I noticed a little Fluid around the drain plug of my transmission. Figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the level since I never have since I purchased it. To my surprise I got my arm showered in trans fluid. I know you are supposed to keep the WD21's overfilled but I can't find anything on Manual Trans R50's. I drained the extra fluid and was just wondering if it was a good idea to overfill it again. I was planning on changing the fluid over anyhow but wanted the word from the guys here to see what you all do.
Thanks.
What is the build date of your Pathfinder? Most early 96's used the same tranny as the WD21's so it is necessary to overfill the tranny to get the proper amount of fluid. Check the build date on your door jamb (or the firewall, I can't remember which one). Once you have that, post back.
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With stock rims, the 245/75/16's are going to be your max, but try a test fit to be sure. I ran Bridgestone Dueler AT Revos 31x10.5x15 (actual height of tire 30.5, tread width 8.1, sidewall width 10.9) and the tread was within less than an inch of the bottom of the strut. The majority of the inner lug pattern was under the spring perch. Just make sure there is a little room to allow rocks caught in the tread to clear. I had a few gouges in the bottom of the spring perch running the 31's.
32's tend to be the max with offset rims, 31" for factory.
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Oh man, you may just have saved me a ton of money. I already ordered the rears but those aren't super-expensive and I can return em if they look like they s*ck. Check out this link.
http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/16977/...ed_Monroes.aspx
It will be interesting to take a look at these OME/Monroe rears when they arrive at my house.
Not intending to flame here but, I'll step in as I've seen the OME, KYB and Munroe struts side by side (by side). The OME struts use a thicker rod diameter than the KYB & Munroe and also have an additional 1/4 inch travel. This is intended to withstand the "abuse" of off road and the valving is different. True, they are manufactured by Munroe, but they are not similar to any Munroe line available for the R50. Kinda like comparing a similar Nissan vs. Infinity model...a little more refined for its purpose!
As for the rear shocks, the same is true. The piston rod is larger in diameter than the comparable KYB & standard Munroe shock and of course the valving is different with a little longer travel (3/4" I believe).
On top of that, the Aussie link is for a VQ not an R50. The link you posted is from '04 and the shocks/struts have change part #'s since then and have become more refined. You can search the improvements by checking out the Aussie Nissan forum, where this has been discussed many times.
KYB's are a better strut option only as they have a life time warranty and have stood the abuse of many forum members for many years without failure (unlike Rancho).
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I'd say that's a fair price, if they can commit to the times you posted! I had access to a hoist and spent 3-4 hours for the complete install and that was by myself and taking my time. Be sure to get new strut bearings during the install, well worth the additional $50 (get OEM Nissan). The prices are inline for the springs & shocks. I paid just a bit more or less when I installed mine in 06.
Hubs are something you can do in your driveway, if you have the desire, you can save yourself some $$. Buy a case of beer and complete the install in 1 hour or less and have drinks for the rest of the day!
Comment back on the OME struts if you buy them. Given the price, not many install them. You may want to consider KYB's and save some $$ to put towards the sliders. I bought KYB's when I did my OME install and I cannot speak highly enough of them. Far cheaper than the OME struts and by far the best option for the R50. Many other here will agree!
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Could be a few things but here are the most likely culprits:
1) U joints in the rear drive shaft
2) Upper control arms
Since you have not mentioned the "bob and weave" problem, the lower control arms are not likely the source. As for the bushings, You need a press for all of the control arms, upper and lower, to replace them. Not that big of an issue if you can get them off an to a local shop for the swap.
I have read a few posts about the clunk sound that is heard over bumps that is typically the control arm bushings (based on the responses, anyway). I have a 2000 SE and have a low volume 'thud' that happens when i accelerate from a dead stop. I get a single thud about 1/2 a second after I start to accelerate. It is not the shift from 1st to 2nd. Sounds kinda like hitting solid metal with a rubber malette - not a metal on metal kind of sound.Could this be from the worn bushings too? Sounds almost like the the axle shifting or rotating a little under acceleration? The clunk might be it snapping into place. The sound is still pretty subtle at this point, but is pretty consistent when starting from a dead stop.
I recently mounted up some OME springs and GR-2 struts/shocks, but this was happening before the suspension upgrade. Haven't replaced control arms or any bushings.
Also - can someone point me to the bushings that can be replaced without a press? Want to pick some up to start replacing the old with the new over time, but don't have access to a press. Will likely have to buy the control arms as complete units when the time comes. Any other bushings that can be replaced and can you post a link to a place to pick the particular bushings up?
Thanks in advance!
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I'm in for $20. Seen too many good guys take this fall, hopefully I'll never find myself in this situation! Just make sure that she can't get it again!!
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Unlike Zibi, I think the issue is your seating position.
I wear size 13 as well and have no issues. Maybe you are sitting to far back or too close to the steering wheel. This can cause an un-natural position when driving.
I'm 6' and sit quite far back from the steering wheel. This allows more leg room and the controls are easily within foot reach. In fact, I have a friend who is 6'3" and drives in the same position, we swapped truck on occasion.
Try moving your seat back and get used to the additional reach with your feet. Or, if you are sitting too far back now, move closer. Either way, It will become normal very quickly and prevent your pain.
I have the nice Nissan rubber floor mats, wear a size 13 shoe, and the area for the foot controls is too cramped. Where that hump comes out on the right side is right where I want to put my foot, but instead, it has to be angled in a little bit with my heel to the right. This puts all the pressure on the back right side of my heel, and my foot hurts like crazy after every time I drive, and while I am driving.Has anyone else experienced this, and have a fix?
Thanks!
--Mike
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I had a custom exhaust and went 2.25" from the flanges on the cats to the muffler and then 2.5" from the muffler to the rear. 3" would be overkill, but 2.25 -2.50" is fine IMO.
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It just hapenned 2 weeks ago once and today. Haven't installed anything. I have a temp emergency setup with a switch, fuse and relay to operate the wiper motor.
Please explain the set up in more deatil. You mean you have bypassed the factory set up with the above parts to make the wiper work?
There is one common ground for both parts. The ground is for the rear wiper switch & the ground for the display. The common point is circled on the attachment as M4. Look at the box above in the pic too as it shows a reference to one of the M4 grounding points. This is under the driver's side kick panel, though I'm not 100% certain where. Probably just above or below the relay/wiring box there. Hopefully its easy to find as there are 2 grounds close to each other. Unhook the battery and check the connections for corrosion.
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It's intermittent. It happed this morning again. As I was driving arround the wipers and console cam back to life.
Sounds like a grounding issue. I'll check the FSM to see if there is a common point that both ground to. I know that the overhead display wires and the switch both ground under the dash, but not sure where or if they both ground to the same point.
Have you installed or changed anyting recently or has this problem been in place for a while?
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The factory airbox won't be big enough to serve as a decent heat shield. Fabricate a shield with some cheap sheet metal instead, and use fuel tubing, slit on one side, to line the sharp edges. Someone has done this already and has pics, but I can't remember who.
That was me XPLORx4. Here's the pic.
Here's the link to the full completion of my "CAI" set-up
where is the Starter
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by HFXpathfinders
That's a common way for a starter to begin failing. There may be one dead spot on the armature and if it stops on that spot again, you'll have to hit the starter again to get it going. A failing solenoid will react the same way. Have it replaced or rebuilt sooner rather than later. Next time you could be further from home or in a spot where you would not want to leave the vehicle overnight!
I believe I paid about $60 to have my starter rebuilt at a local shop and with a 1 year warranty. A new rebuilt starter from NAPA was almost $250.