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Breemania

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Posts posted by Breemania

  1. I'm trying to get one of these made for my pathy:

     

    IMG_2593.jpg

     

    if/when it's done I will trade my ARB and Warn M8000 for an ARB rear locker and LOKKA front locker. I'll even pay for shipping within the lower 48 states. the combo cost me $2k+ and the lockers can be purchased for about $1300. of course cash is accepted.

     

    anybody interested? just trying to make sure i could find a buyer if i spend more money on another front bumper.

     

    EDIT: I'm meeting the guy this weekend to get a quote on bumpers and sliders. I'll try and take pics of his work; maybe if my stuff turns out well, he can use my bumpers as templates to build more.

     

     

    How Much will the front bumper be?

  2. The "design" i am refering to is really a 3d model I did with Google Sketchup (which is free). All models in SketchUp are fully dimensionable, and I built the model based on real life dimensions I took of my truck, but the measurements were taken mostly with a measuring tape or a ruler, some with a vernier caliper, so the model is only an approximation to show the shop what I wanted the bumper to "look like".

     

    My agreement with the shop was that they would follow my model as a conceptual design, but I left them my truck for a week so they could re-measure everything and do the "real life" fitting. So, the model is close, but has some level of inaccuracy and may as well have some significant errors I don't know about. I can send the model by e-mail to anyone who thinks it may be useful. You will need Google Sketchup, which you can get for free here

     

    By the way, check out whats next...

    NissanPathfinderBumpers2.jpg

    NissanPathfinderBumpers1.jpg

     

    :aok: Can you say winch bumper!!! (the front bumper is also included in the model file, by the way...)

     

     

    Wow that looks awesome! Do you have the final prints for this? Please send them to me when you get a chance. Awesome job, Nice work. Thank you. Breemania!

  3. Holy Cowfinder those are cheap O2 sensors!!! That may be the find of the year!!

     

    Thanks man! It took some research when I needed mine, I just couldn't believe the cost of these things, CRAZY! Im glad to save some people some cash, there is no reason why these are so much money at the dealer.

  4. hey all. i posted up about my 88 in the other section, but have a new issue with a different vehicle. so my pops has a 97 v6 4wd 155k. his service engine light came on, and the code is p0420, and that is "catalytic system efficiency below threshold, bank 1". I scoured the forums and couldn't find anything, so i apologize if i missed it.anyways, pops took the pathy to the dealership and they said $1300. riiiiiiight.

     

    Here's the first kicker. the pathy has 2 cats total. one per side, up front, right off the exhaust manifold. We got told that those pathys have 4 cats total, 2 per side. Anyone know for a fact what is supposed to be? His truck has been passing emissions every year with flying colors, so it's not been an issue not having the rear pair of cats, if in fact they have 2 pairs of cats. he bought the truck in 98 with 20K, so i can't imagine someone doing some custom exhaust work in the first 20K.

     

    so, my question is, 2 cats or 4 cats total? then, p0420, bank 1? the front 2 cats, correct? or is bank side-dependent?

     

    autopartswarehouse.com also lists 4 different cats, front right, left, rear right, left, each ~$220/piece. anyone dealt with them and the quality of their parts? and, is it a huge PITA or just a small PITA to change em? everything is bolt up, so no welding. Chime in with your $0.02. Thanks a million!

     

    I had This problem with my 1997 Pathfinder 4wd SE I replaced all 4 OXYGEN SENSORS not Cats, there are 4. 2 front and two back. Im pretty sure the rear 2 on the exhust are a three wire type and the front ones in the engine compartment are a 4 wire. ( I'll check when its daylight for you.) If you can manage to do your own crimps you can save a ton of cash. I bought mine on ebay from this guy, the company is global automotive. I used the (BWD) Borg Warner oxygen sensors two years ago and they are still working great! Just Cut the wire and crimp them together, then wrap them in electrical tape or better yet heat shrink! Two months later I also had to replace the Evap cannister, it was Leaking Charcoal in the lines, so also keep that in mind.

    Here's the link :

    http://search.stores.ebay.com/GLOBAL-AUTOM...0271212QQsofpZ0

     

    Now they're so cheap you can JUST DO ALL 4! MINT!!! Saved ya BIG BUCKS on this one.

     

    Scrool down and find your model. When you put them in don't forget to use anti-seize. "Sparingly on the threads only"

    Also I sprayed some PB Blaster on them to help get them out. Kinda Rusted!

     

    Good Luck, if you have any other questions I can help you with send me your phone # and I'll call ya.

     

    Breemania!

  5. So, after re-reading my post. i didn't even really ask what i posted this for in the first place.

     

    The upper two cams, have fallen, because i haven't had a belt on for about 3 days, (i was replacing it, and the spring on the tensioner broke, so i got one today. Lucky me, 3 bucks from one of the tech guys at the dealership down the street!) The pistons seem to have settled, which have moved the cams. I had marked their original positions, so its just a matter of getting them back to where they were. The right one is only 2 teeth away, and its no problem to get back, however. the left one has moved about 8 teeth, and its impossible to get it back without forcing it. I don't want to hurt anything... any suggestions? or is forcing it what i'm gonna have to do?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Also see my post on Timing Belt Problems. Search Timing Belt.

     

    The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job.

    when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT!

     

    The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket.

     

    If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me.

     

    If you still have questions send me your phone # and Ill be happy to answer any questions you have and give you a few tips on the job.

     

    Breemania

  6. Aloha everyone, Im new to this forum and need a little help. Here's the situation; my uncle replaced the timing belt on his 92 pathfinder less than 4 months ago and just recently the timing belt went again. I was able to remove mostly everything to see what the belt looks like and what I saw was mostly every teeth on the belt looks to have been shaven off. Pics will follow. I was just wondering if anyone might know or have a clue as what would have caused this. At the moment, the belt feels to be too tight and im thinking it is the tensioner to be at fault. Could someone confirm with me or lead me to any other possibilities? Also does anyone of any other method to finding out how to get cylinder 1 to TDC and get the cams to line up for putting on the new belt? The reason I ask is that there's a chance there are no markings to line up to. Thanks.

     

    DSC02802.jpg

    DSC02803.jpg

    DSC02806.jpg

    DSC02809.jpg

    DSC02807.jpg

     

     

    Also make sure the pulley tensioner is adjusted to 5:30 on clock time. Tensioner might not have been right. Also No.1 cylinder is up front on passenger side. Meaning toward the Radiator, passenger side. Make sure to replace the Camshaft seals left and right. Your leaking oil there.

    I got a full Timing belt kit from Courtsey Nissan in Texas, I got it in two days with fed ex shipping. Best price I know of.

    Linky : http://www.courtesyparts.com/

     

     

    To make it easier, here.

     

    First, thank you to everyone who replied!

    The motor fired up and purs like a kitten, better than ever! But now the Crankshaft pulley "Harmonic Balancer" will not go on, it is a brand new one by the way, any ideas on this will be great.

     

    The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job.

    when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT!

     

    The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket.

     

    If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me. Any Ideas on the Crankshaft pulley? Thank you.

     

    Breemania

     

    Oh yea BTW the Crankshaft pully that wouldn't fit was aftermarket garbage! I went to Nissan this Morning and Got a new one and it slid on like Butter!

  7. Aloha everyone, Im new to this forum and need a little help. Here's the situation; my uncle replaced the timing belt on his 92 pathfinder less than 4 months ago and just recently the timing belt went again. I was able to remove mostly everything to see what the belt looks like and what I saw was mostly every teeth on the belt looks to have been shaven off. Pics will follow. I was just wondering if anyone might know or have a clue as what would have caused this. At the moment, the belt feels to be too tight and im thinking it is the tensioner to be at fault. Could someone confirm with me or lead me to any other possibilities? Also does anyone of any other method to finding out how to get cylinder 1 to TDC and get the cams to line up for putting on the new belt? The reason I ask is that there's a chance there are no markings to line up to. Thanks.

     

    DSC02802.jpg

    DSC02803.jpg

    DSC02806.jpg

    DSC02809.jpg

    DSC02807.jpg

     

     

    Read my Post on Timing belt Problems. Hopefully you didnt mash the Valves. Be sure to Turn the motor by hand after you have everything lined up. Do this by putting the crankshaft bolt in and turning with 27mm socket and 1/2 ratchet. Remove spark plugs first. This way you will have even resistance and be able to have a better feel.

     

    Breemania

  8. Like topic said..wanting my timing belt/water pump changed 500$ cash, 200$ more if you change gasket on manifold/newer bolts. No bolts looks busted, underneath the pathy is no rust.

    500$ is good for timing belt/pump, places around here want 250-400, but they don't look reputable and give me negative vibes with all these surcharges that might exist. I'd rather pay more knowing the job is done RIGHT, fcuk it, this is how I roll. I don't know nothing about cars, everything I've learned

    has been thru this board, so I'm reaching out to your Pathy Gods.

     

    I have all the parts, new belt, new pump in box.

     

    There's only one catch, you MUST have experience doing this on a pathy. People around here done a 'few' pump jobs on yugos and hondas. I'm sure there are differences between normal cars and a pathy, kinda don't want them

    to have their first time pathfinder timingbelt/pump job experience with mines.

     

    I'll be willing to leave it at your house for a couple of days if needed.

     

    I love this pathy but its having small troubles and I'm mechanically handicapped..I can only save to buy a new pathy or I'm going the Xterra route.

     

    Please make love to my pathy and I'll pay you, cash!

    HMMMM Thinking about it, That job is a bitch. Your best bet while its apart is to change camshaft Seals 2 L&R Side (Passengers side is almost always leaking) and the main crankshaft seal also. Along with the thermostat and new belts. Im on Long Island NY. How is the truck running and what is the milage? Has the belt ever been changed? Breemania

  9. First, thank you to everyone who replied!

    The motor fired up and purs like a kitten, better than ever! But now the Crankshaft pulley "Harmonic Balancer" will not go on, it is a brand new one by the way, any ideas on this will be great.

     

    The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job.

    when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT!

     

    The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket.

     

    If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me. Any Ideas on the Crankshaft pulley? Thank you.

     

    Breemania

    Oh yea BTW the Crankshaft pully that wouldn't fit was aftermarket garbage! I went to Nissan this Morning and Got a new one and it slid on like Butter!

  10. First, thank you to everyone who replied!

    The motor fired up and purs like a kitten, better than ever! But now the Crankshaft pulley "Harmonic Balancer" will not go on, it is a brand new one by the way, any ideas on this will be great.

     

    The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job.

    when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT!

     

    The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket.

     

    If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me. Any Ideas on the Crankshaft pulley? Thank you.

     

    Breemania

  11. :FartExplode-vi: OK I was in a rush to do the timing belt on the Wifes and Kids "making me nuts " 1997 Pathfinder SE 4WD, I did not set to No. 1 Cylinder TDC. The Question is this How do I get everything lined up correctly now? I dont want to trash the Valves. I know about the dots and how to line them up. I've done this job on my 300 zxt several times over the years but always had it aligned first.

    Also the belt is off now and the new cam seals are in. Is there any way to be sure? I think the passengers side cam might have moved. Thanks everybody for you help.

     

    Breemania

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