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93blkpathr

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Posts posted by 93blkpathr

  1. A swirl valve is basically just a simple butterfly valve located inside the engine's intake tract that causes the incoming air to swirl, as opposed to flowing straight in. It's supposed to make the air/fuel mixture "mix better". If the swirl valves are closing when they're supposed to stay open, that would cause your bucking while accelerating problem...

     

    Can't say that I've ever heard of this particular problem before, sorry.

     

    Hi folks, sorry to bring up such an ancient post (from an ancient poster, nonetheless), but I experienced this exact same problem a couple weeks ago on an extremely hot day with my '03 VQ and was looking to see if anyone else had the same problem. Dealer said the solenoid was fine after numerous tests, and I haven't had a problem after @100 miles driving, but need to make sure, does this part fail frequently - should I buy a backup for those times when I'm 50 miles deep into the back country at 6PM (with bears, cougars and mosquitoes - oh my :hide: ) and need to do a quick field fix, or do you think this is a rare occurrence with this part?

  2. Did anyone else completely loose track of their active threads?  Or am I just loosing my mind.  I know there were several things I was following but now I can't remember them... :confused:

     

     

     

    Oh well, looks like I've got some work to do

    I had one, the "steering box" thread - the OP asked a question and two days later I checked to see if there were any answers and the site was gone :(

     

    Thanks for bringing this site back up, '88 :aok:

  3. Sad to hear, I just picked up an ’03 and have started to prep my ’93 for sale – I’m sort of in disbelief and still take it out for drives every day just because I still like it (especially more since I’ve cleaned it up).

     

    I probably won’t be listing it for a few weeks, but I’m pretty sure I will definitely end up selling it. It feels like losing a part of oneself, especially when you have a lot of good memories attached to the truck, but it seems like it’s inevitable and something that must happen. Right now my biggest concern is getting it to the right owner who will take good care of it and hopefully make it into a decent off-road rig. It’s weird how we can get so attached to our trucks and I can definitely understand what you’re thinking.

     

    Good luck and hopefully you will get another Pathfinder soon. I’ll still be here, just browsing the R50 forums…………………P...

  4. - Center console could have been designed better, cupholders are useless when I need that thing for an armrest! Also, I have many CD's with coffee stains on them from spillage.

     

    - Where's the voltage meter?

     

    - Stock transmission cooler

     

    - shift points on the transmission a little strange, shifts to second gear a little too quickly

     

    - The VG30E is a great engine, but the truck really needs at least 200HP

     

    - Truck could have had a little more height so we could fit at least 32's when stock (wishful thinking)

     

    - Transmission pan in bad location

     

    - Knock sensor location (lets make it as hard as possible to change the knock sensor).

     

    - Did someone already mention steering? :D

     

    - Who decided to put the starter under the oil filter? :oops:

  5. Thanks for the help! Are you sure I wouldn't need to replace the belt? there are 3 pulleys on that belt in my pathfinder... As much as weight, I am also wanting to make some room in the engine compartment and the PO bent the thing in front of the radiator to hell...not sure what that's called...

     

    Sucks I need to get it to a shop, it's not registered or insured yet :(

    I've been running 2 years without the AC belt with no adverse effects - removed it after I discovered the compressor clutch was bad and too much of a cheapskate to replace it (really don't need AC in Western Washington). You'll be surprised how much quieter your engine is without it. As far as your coolant lines are concerned, I'd agree with 88 and have a shop remove them, don't want to do anything illegal, I wouldn't :hide:

  6. Did you try loosening the t-bars a little and seeing if the clunking stopped? From what I recall, I think you can get only about 1 - 1 1/2" lift out of the t-bars before having to add bigger UCA's, etc.

  7. Buy at least 5 feet of 3/8" ID oil hose, a few hose clamps, and completely bypass the stock cooler - prepare to catch @ 1/2 pint of AT fluid. You'll probably have to loosen the top mounts of the radiator to get it to fit in there. Should only take 1-2 hrs max if you're moving slow to hook it up.

  8. The easy way to figure it out is the output line is typically the warmer of the two and IIRC it was the one closest to the center of the truck. Most coolers are non-directional, so it's not too critical of an issue (correct me if I'm wrong)

  9. Are you talking about the inside blower, maybe you had ice hitting the blower in winter and it melted by the time you came back with your coffee and you had leaves hitting it in the summer :shrug:

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