2bit

Hello! I haven't been on this forum in years since my '94 @!*% the bed. I now have a '97, auto, 3.3l, and the T-case is giving me grief. I have the rear axle on stands so the wheels spin freely. P - grinding noise R - grinding noise only when under throttle. N - grinding noise D - grinding noise till about 30-40km, then all good 2 and 1st are ok. All gears shift fine as well as the 4H and 4L I have felt the t-case while this happens and it is viberating like a mofo. That's why I think its the problem. The fluid was a little low and black. I changed it and still no better. The drain plug had a bit of metal on it, nothing alarming though. The previous owner though the tranny was shot. Tranny fluid is nice, clean and smells like a rose. Any help?

I would like to keep it and play/swap but I just don't have the space in my yard. In a couple of weeks I'm getting a junker F350 crew cab for parts, as well as my other two full size trucks. It's a crappy situation but you just have to learn to let go. It was a nice truck, it served me well.

That would be a good idea if I had the time, a welder and the know how. I just spent a good 45mins crawling around on my back with a flash light and hammer. The back half has more soft spots and holes then I can count. On the inside of the frame, underneath, all over. In one spot it's almost completely rusted in half. So, what would some one pay for a '94 auto with 187 000km with a garbage frame and a good amount of cab rot?

I'm no welder but I'm pretty damn sure there is no weldable frame left. I mean you could make a new section of frame rail and cut out the bad but that would mean new body mounts aswell cause the rust goes for a ways on both sides. I'm going to go over this truck with a fine tooth comb and look for all the rust and make a call on it. See if she is a keeper or not!

I live in a really small town with only a couple mechanic shops. I will drive it down (slowly) to my mechanic this week and see what he has to say.

hahaha, no worries there buddy. My '79 Bronco and '91 F150 are doing a lot more damage to the environment then this little truck.

I don't have any buddy's with welders but I'll ask my local mechanic what it will cost me.

I'm just wondering if it's worth it. The driver side (not shown) is half as bad so both sides need work. I think she is a junker. There doesn't seem to be much solid frame left to salvage in the back half.

I know it's bad but is it completely shot? I'm kinda thinking it is. The only thing holding the "rear link thing" on is about a quarter inch of rusted metal. The frame is buckling were it's almost rusted through. Top left corner.. ****** picture but where I'm pointing is all that's holding 'er together.

Yeah, the panel is off. I grab the bottom of the window and lifted but nothing happened. I didn't expect anything to but you know... I think the motor is fskced cause it goes down fine, it just won't go up. I just need a way to make it go back up and stay.

All right, the passenger side window went all the way down, now it won't go up. The little motor makes noise when you press the down button but nothing while pressing up. I'm in rainy Canada and have no garage. How can I manually pull the window up? I took the door panel off but can't seem to figure anything out.

Ok, besides the battery being dead all it does is click now when I try to start. I hooked it up and made sure it read about 12.5 so the connection is clean (I left it hooked up with my multimeter on). Nothing but a hole pile of fast clicks. Now when this happened with my F150 I replaced the starter solenoid and starter and it's all good. Same deal on this truck do you figure? Or still maybe a bad connection somewhere? The volts jump to about 5 when I try to turn it over, is that normal?

Hooked it back up last night to the Bronco for @!*%s and giggles and it fired right up! So I got it off the street and in my driveway. This morning I hooked it up and ran the Bronco for a good 10 mins while I got ready for work. Came out and tried to start, NOTHING. Not even the old click click. I don't have much time after work to play with it so this weekend I'm going in balls deep to figure this @!*% out.

Yeah I live in Tofino. Small ass town with no repair shops or chain stores. It's all on me to fix er. I'll buy a new battery and throw it in. Thanks for the input guys

Well, you see, this is a new battery. This problem happened back in April when the truck was given to me and I diagnosed it as a bad battery. Bought a new one and it's worked ever since...till now. AHHHH, I lent my truck to my step father and he left my Hella's on and killed it. Would one time killing the battery destroy it?

OK, '94 pathfinder. Won't start, checked the volts at the battery, 6-7. So I hook up the cables to my Bronco. The bat now reads about 13. Perfect right? I turn the key, nothing but clicks, I check the volts again and back down to 6-7 while still connected to my running Bronco. What gives?

Yeah, I was only hoping for pics and OR detailed list of what needs removing, But i'll figure it out! and yeah, lots of liquid wrench has been used.

Holy smokes. I have been trying to break some body bolts free and I broke my hand tool. I think i'm going to order a impact wrench to do the rest. Nothing beets working on a 14 year old truck that's spent it's life beside the ocean collecting rust!

any one have a good step by step with some pics?

Hey! I'm in the middle of installing a 3 inch Performance Accessories body lift and have some questions. This is the first time i've been under my '94 so it's all very new to me. Ok, i've got the front bumper off, the loop thing off, the gas filler hose is ready, the stearing shaft is sitting in lube waiting to budge and the power stearing pump is unbolted. I realize there is more but can I get a break down on what there is? I guess basically anything that is attached to the body and frame have to be unbolted eh? Like all those hard lines running down the passanger side frame rail...Now after I grind the bolt head off (rusty) do they just hang there after the lift or do I reattach them somehow. One more dumb question..a couple of the body bolts have the white plastic cover in the cab. How do you remove that plastic cap safely without destroying it. Thank you for you help!!!! Nick

Thanks for all the answers. I have my lifted F150 for abusing off road. My pathy is "supposed" to be my dd but you know how that is. So I just orderd a 3" BL for it, figured it would be best suited for me. Probably throw some 32's in there and call her done.

Right, thats kind of what I thought. Buy the uca's and screw with your factory torsion bars, or buy the more exspensive kit and install new torsion bars as well to screw with.

Hey! I don't really undertsand how the front suspension works on my 94 pathfinder. I'm shopping around for a lift right now and i'm not too sure what I need. Some kits come with the whole works (uca, torsion bars, coils) while some just come with uca's and some coils for the rear. By just installing the new upper control arms will I gain lift? Or are these just to help align it after I crank the factory torsion bars?? All i've worked on is my '91 Ford 4x4, so this weird 'control arm' suspension stuff is a little confusing... Thanks for any help.