alexrex20
-
Posts
892 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by alexrex20
-
-
i agree with you completely, nunya. the idiots need to keep their mouth shut, especially when they insist that they're right but are obviously wrong. but then again, i guess they are an idiot, so what more can we expect? they're too idiotic to know any better; too idiotic to know when they're wrong; too idiotic to use the Ignore List feature.
they like to use lines like "not worth my time," or "it's starting to get old," or "i am tired of it," or my all-time favorite, "i am not a nice guy," but yet all they can do in response to the cluttering of the forum, is add even more clutter with their constant complaining and whining. but you know me, "i'm not going to fingerpoint."
-
I'de choose Zahle , lebanon
I would love to have a conversation and hear opinions but with people who can lead one as the majority of the members of this forum
Apart from missing the point of the H3 and R50 being compared with H1 and WD the replies about the VQ and the WD engine powers proved the ignorance point which you have raised .
you compared the WD to the R50, not me. when i compared the R50 to the WD, i specifically used the early VG33 models for comparison. the R50 VG33 has 170hp, so even compared to the WD VG30, it's only an increase of 17hp (or only 10hp, depending on your market). i wouldn't exactly call that a significant amount.
-
to replace the boot, you have to do the same amount of work (or arguably more), as just replacing the entire axle.
here's what you do:
remove the wheel
remove the cap on your locking hubs (6 allen head bolts)
remove the axle snap ring
remove the locking hub (6 hex nuts)
undo the lower ball joint mount (3 bolts)
remove the cv axle from the differential (6 hex nuts)
lower the control arm enough so that you can slide the axle out through the "A" opening in the control arm
-
your right, I know nothing about building rigs.
every thread you're in, it comes down to an argument about how you're the god of rig building.
so tell me, is it the link or the rod end that flexes?
-
P/N 99545 is the handle which attaches to the end of the long rod. the T end of the long rod is inserted into the tube thingy to lower the spare tire. it is also used to raise the bottle jack.
the long rod is stored under the rear seat. it's easy to overlook it.
-
my '00 vehicle came with the basic spare tire tool kit
P/N
99596 - the little storage bag
99545 - lever handle
99618 - jack adapter
99550 - bottle jack
99613 - rod for lowering tire/lifting vehicle
and here is your stupid picture; not because i want to help you, but because i want to prove you wrong.
-
wrong.
the rod to lower the spare tire is P/N 99613 in that diagram. it's about 4ft long.
-
what do you mean by NO?
the key needs to be programmed at the dealership.
-
BS
that shackle setup is what lets it flex that way, and those are horrible.
They have bad unloading caracteristics.
leaves = axle wrap and lead to wheel hop
coils don't do either.
everybody that says leaves can be set up just as good as coils and links are off their rocker.
If you don't believe me, look around to every "serious" offroad rig, they all go to coils sooner or later.
who said anything about which design was better? it's obvious that links > leaves. we were arguing flex, and that pic clearly shows that a leaf setup can flex just as much as links.
-
-
I dont understand why you are always so agressive ? that it blinds you from understanding the subject .
Stay polite and calm or don't adress to me , I appreciate if you can be a respectfull member who can lead respectfull conversations
i don't understand why you're so ignorant.
-
Not intending to go offtopic , you can order the H3 with anything you want and it will still be overweighted , oversized and not worth the money spent on it both on road and offroad .
value is subjective. the H3 is heavier than the R50, but the R50 is not lightweight by any means.
early R50s had the same anemic VG33 as WD21s.
...why am even arguing? it's obvious i'm dealing with ignorant, heavily biased WD or R50 fanboys...
-
that wasn't the point... the point was you're saying an r50 could outwheel a wd just the way a h3 could a h1...
both of which or completely false.
are you an idiot? no really, are you?
i was defending the WD when 01silvapathy said an R50 would outwheel it. and yes, a front/rear locked H3 Alpha will outperform an H1 on most, if not all terrain types.
-
you can get the H3 with a 320hp V8 and front/rear lockers (Alpha model with Adventure Package). it will easily outperform an R50.
-
-
you had better be a good fabricator if you want to do it for that price
-
another great example of 4x4Parts.com quality service
-
nice save.
-
So you made it so that the driver's side can't spin and the passenger's still won't spin?
^^^ what he said
-
i still think a leaf SAS wouldn't be that bad on an R50. when it comes down to it, your link-rear/leaf-front SAS still made it up that trail that would otherwise be impassable to a front/rear-locked IFS truck.
-
245/75/17 is a 32in tire, so i don't think you'll clear them without a lift and without trimming some plastic.
-
-
leaf springs can flex just as much as links, if not more.
-
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You don't really want to start a wd21-r50 fight, they soemtimes seem to get a little heated. I make my jokes on ocasion but end it quickly so it don't get carried away. Each has it's plus and minus points(even if they didn't make a 2 door r50).
let him start it. i doubt he can finish it, especially when his argument is that an R50 will outperform a WD21... unless he meant on the highway.
Childish arguing around here lately
in Off-Topic
Posted
you must've skimmed past the second sentence of the post above you.