Eagle
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Posts posted by Eagle
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Timing belt was changed at 91,000. I am at 150,500 now.
Is this a 90-100,000 mile belt, or a 60,000 belt on a 1996 pathy?
EDIT:
I think I found my answer, and it ends the confusion I have read. The 3.0L 1996 is at a 60,000 mile interval. The 3.3L is at a 105,000 mile interval (or 84 months). I am at 60,000 miles on the belt, and 70 months, so I should be good for another year or so.
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right now, I have a heat shield on my passenger side rattling that I can hardly figure out why/where it is loose or touching...very metallic sounding. It is not the post cat heat shield either...pain in the arse! Could your noise be this?
I had those shield all yanked off if they make noise. Pointless unless you're in dry tall grass, and running hot.
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Eagle, if your belt hasnt been changed in 150k you should really think about changing it ASAP. While the 3.3 will run for a very very long time, if the t-belt goes it pretty much usually destroys the engine. That gets pricy unless you swap out yourself. I am not a mechanic I understand how an engine works and absolutely love cars and trucks but never really did a whole lot of work on them besides maintenance, replacing carbs etc. (easy stuff). So I was nervous when I decided to change the t-belt myself but after getting advice from here and writeups etc it turned out to be a pretty easy job. I do not know your mechanical skill but all it takes it time and the right tools.
I have dropped an engine and swapped out cylinders on a old VW. I have the ability and instructions (thanks to some info here - 5523Pathfinder kudos! - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828&st=0 - ).
This seems pretty easy, but lots of work. I think the biggest challenge is marking it (BEFORE removing the old belt). I also need the puller, but should have the rest of the tools.
I told my wife I was going to do it myself, and she said why don't you take it to the shop, then I told her the price. She's warming up to the idea.
Also, I've sort of lost faith in the dealer (which has good mechanics) when they could not tell me about the sway bar/control arms bushings. Now, along with me finding out (here on this forum) that my belt is NOT chain, I have even less respect. Those guys should have known the 96 did not have the chain. I found my receipt and NO mention of timing belt.
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on a wd-21, NO, the belts will NOT last 150k........ they should be changed every 65k.......... for the r-50 i believe it's every 105k...
a pathy will last as long as YOU want it to. there are 3 members i know of with over 500k on their original trucks..... if it is well maintained, not tortured and abused, they can last a loooooooong time, which is what makes them such great trucks
Potentially, it can last as long as the replacement parts are available.
I guess I draw a line when I have to replace the camshafts, valves, cylinders/engine block, transmission.
So, I should have said, how long do the engines last while only replacing easy parts (water pump/alt), belts, and plugs, etc.
But this is good to know. I've got quite a bit invested, and it has been well taken care of (besides timing belt - if that is the case).
It is great when you tell them to replace the timing belt (more money) at 105k and they tell you it is a chain. I hope someone there did it. I guess I am going to have to eat the price of another, if they did do it at 105 (currently 150k), and put on another. If not - how is this even running???
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Hey, thanks for the replies.
It'd be nice for more data points.
I have the 1996 3.3 VG with 150,000. I had planned on replacing, but I really like the pathy. The payment is real low (0), along with the insurance.
My concern is the timing belt. I was lied to in 2002 or so about the belt, as I was told it had a chain, and didn't need to be changed when I had the water pump replaced. I now know it has a belt (hard to see behind the cover). I am wondering if they replaced the belt at 102,000. I doubt they did, and I have no note of the parts on my receipt. (!!!)
Can the belt really last 150,000???
Now I am looking at replacing the belt, and will probably just do it myself. It looks time consuming, but not difficult.
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Is there a thread discussing engine life of pathfinders?
I didn't find one, but I probably just don't know where to look.
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One fact that is commonly ignored by ethanol proponents: It takes a lot of energy to produce ethanol. Many studies show it takes more energy to produce than it contains. And since most energy in the US is still generated from burning fossil fuels, it is not really a renewable energy source. It also means the cost of producing ethanol is closely linked to the cost of fossil fuels (including oil) and ethanol prices WILL be rising very soon - unless it is heavily subsidized in your area.
If GW's vision comes to be and we start building a bunch of nukes, then it gets more attractive. That is Brazil's model (and it is working) - use nuclear power to power the production of ethanol out of sugar cane. Since corn is less efficient than sugar cane, we will need to build more nukes.
That's right, there is still no free lunch....
Agreed...
Additionally, this sums it up:
Why are E20 and E85 gasolines being promoted? It is a giant RIP because of federal money being thrown at the badly flawed concept of using ethanol to replace gasoline. The concept is dead wrong because ANY use of alcohol in fuel DECREASES mileage severely. It contributes to making gasoline quit burning in the latter part of the power stroke. Ethanol and hydrogen actually cost more energy to produce than the energy they release in an engine. The existing global heating will render ALL U.S. crops in the near future to be inefficient due to unpredictable weather changes. The magazine SCIENCE just released a powerful study of the issues facing Earth over the next 50 years. Frightening. For instance meteorologist Paul Douglas (who has studied this problem in depth) predicts corn in the future will only grow in Canada rather than in the lower 48. Very impractical idea to push ethanol because it kills Thermal Efficiency in engines, running TE below 20-percent. Ethanol is only good for making money for select groups. We need the voters to decide if ethanol should be added to gasoline. Politicians know nothing about the subject. Let's take it out of the hands of the rich politicians. Besides, it seems clear that it is unconstitutional to force all of us to buy ethanol laden gasoline when the stuff hurts mileage as much as it does. We should challenge the constitutionality of laws that favor ethanol because ethanol is NOT a solution. It is like throwing gasoline on a fire. Ethanol is the product of greed and stupidity. We need fuel that increases TE rather than lowers it. The University of Minnesota just published a report that is given in the article on alcohol. The report says ethanol is not the right future fuel or savior it is being made out to be by special interest groups. -
Eagle... bit off topic
WHAT THE HELL IS WITH YOUR AVATAR?
Is... that a truck.... backed UP a tree?
I should put a note under it. Here you go....I had to use it when I saw it. LOL
http://www.capecodtoday.com/blogs/index.php/CWN/2006/
Driver escapes injured in Vineyard crash
EDGARTOWN - Despite this scene the driver was not seriously injured.
Edgartown rescuers responded to Meetinghouse Road about 7:30 PM to find this Nissan Pathfinder literally up a tree.
The driver was outside the car when they arrived. Edgartown Police are investigating.
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murano is cross. Are they competing with own lineup now?
Why would a cross buyer want a path cross, when they have the murano with no gears in tran?
They should make the X like the path, and keep the existing path as the excursion competition. It should hold its own in that shrinking market.
The pros are those old ones will drop in price. Everyone wants the new, new thing, even if its @!*%.
This makes all this wd21/r50 seem humorous.
I'd say most here would be happy with the wd21/r50 for off roading compared to what will come later.
wd21/r50 is right sized for many purposes, and gets decent mileage.
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Well, perhaps we could just list the proper amount for the 88-95, 96-02, etc.
I plan on trying 3oz per 10 gallons, as they suggest.
I have a feeling the major limitation for most people is following directions.
You either need a dispenser with a very long neck to get the acetone in the tank, or you need to premix with a gallon in an external, then put that in the tank.
21.5 in a full pathy is amazing.
Don't forget toluene either! Seems like a gallon of acetone and toulene would cost $15 each and last 426 gallons of gasoline at 3oz per 10gal.
426 gal would get me
19 hwy or 8094 miles
15 city or 6390 miles
If I get a 3 mph boost, it would go
22 hwy or 9372 miles
18 city or 7668 miles
This would save:
1278 hwy = $210 USD (at 19 per gallon, $3 per gallon)
1278 city = $255 USD (at 15 per gallon, $3 per gallon)
Not a bad number if even half that, while making the path run better.
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Welcome to the family
Do you have LSD? Wonder if the wrong fluid got put in the diff @ some stage
Yes.
Beats me.
I thought it was good to list that stuff. Really it is all minor stuff except the control arms. That crap was crazy. The mechanics giving me the run around was worse. I ended up buying new struts before figuring it out myself.
People complain about the HP on that, but the torque is incredible. I can't believe the new Path HP numbers, but mine is still running strong.
(knock on wood)
I don't even know what to buy to replace this one when the cost of repair becomes too great. Maybe an 01..?
(Thanks for moving the thread, still learning the rules)
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LOL!
No, but I had to have it as the AV.
http://www.capecodtoday.com/blogs/index.php/CWN/2006/
Driver escapes injured in Vineyard crash
EDGARTOWN - Despite this scene the driver was not seriously injured.
Edgartown rescuers responded to Meetinghouse Road about 7:30 PM to find this Nissan Pathfinder literally up a tree.
The driver was outside the car when they arrived. Edgartown Police are investigating.
Posted on 11/26 at 11:00 PM. Photo courtesy of J. Crave.
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This is a GREAT forum. I've been lurking for a bit, and now joined.
96 SE 4x4, stock
Quirky problems I've had fixed (or need to) over the years:
- control arms (fixed in 9th year)
- noisy tires (newest set this month - Cont cross Lx, replacing the BS Revos)
- cruise control button spring broken
- grinding rear diff (apparently fixed by dealer by using additive)
- radio volume
- attenna stuck up
- tail pipe broken above rear diff - steamed anything near it inside and above the spot. Welded closed for 20 bucks
- 4H to 2H only engages on gas pedal press
- Fan noisy on med
- WAY powerful in turns on the back wheels, burnout on dry pavement, wet is downright dangerous
- Rusted out step bar in 8th year. Pulled off and pitched. I am stock, so no need
- Rusted rear bumper side (left only)
- Small rust spots on front bumper, and very small spots on hood. Otherwise, no rust elsewhere.
- Funky smell when starting AC for first time. Lysol in intake should fix.
- Towed a boat several hundred miles and cracked out exhaust manifold (probably)
Other than these items, it has been an awesome 4x4 and it is great in its 150 mile and 12th year.
- control arms (fixed in 9th year)
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I had this problem a few year back. I think they started to go bad in the 8th year, and were completely not drivable in the 9th.
I had the whole arms replaced. The shop I was at didn't want to , or couldn't do it. They know one way: yank and replace.
Trouble was the nissan dealer, and this other shop couldn't tell me what the problem was until I googled it and told them what to fix.
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Some info on acetone and toluene:
I have not tried, but will soon. Make up your own mind. The posting below seems to have ample evidence.
http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/faq.htm
http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/2598
I am laughing my butt off reading some of the comments here. It’s now quite evident to me that the ‘establishment’ (ie. media controlled by Big oil and ‘Big Brother’) has most of you guys totally brainwashed. I want to give you some FACTS based on personal knowledge.I work in Harris County Texas (Houston). Here EPA emissions testing is strict w/ special tests done to pass inspection annually. I have used a .28 oz/gal acetone to gasoline ratio in 3 vehicles for over a year now, and emmissions readings on these vehicles have dropped 50% on average. All vehicles have shown an average increase in MPG around 10%. All have shown noticeable increase in power. The smaller 4-cyls (Toyotas) show the most improvement, but the greatest improvement was on my 140K mile ‘96 Plymouth Voyager V6. I had a ‘Service Engine’ light coming on indicating ‘Cylinder Misfire’… and it stayed on for 6 months w/o me figuring out the problem. I started using the acetone additive and it went off after 2 tanks!
I work for a major petroleum and chemcical engineering company with over 5,000 employees in Houston alone… 40,000 worldwide. After sharing my info in the Houston office, about a dozen ‘brave’ souls tried it. The results I got back I will note below following my 3 vehicles first. I drive a consistent pattern of hiway and intown traffic equaling 700 miles per week. I buy gas at the same station/same pump/same time weekly for normalization of test data, now 1 year out:
‘85 Toyota Camry 4-cyl = 10%+ MPG, better performance
‘97 Toyota Camry 4-cyl = 9%+ MPG, MUCH better performance
‘96 Plym GR Voyager V6 = 12%+ MPG, Corrected ‘Engine Light’
‘94 Chev P/U V8 = 12% MPG, more power, better emissions test
‘92 Ford Explorer V6 = 5% MPG, passed after failing emissions
‘90 Nissan 280Z V6 = 10% MPG, gets 28MPG hiway @ 75MPH
‘97 Jeep Cherokee = Passed emissions test after flunking
‘01 Toyota Pathfinder = (Ditto above)… 2 tanks after
‘94 Lincoln Cont’l V8 = (Ditto above); 10%+ MPG
All have been saying roughly 10%+ mpg, but most notably the increased performance. If you aren’t getting the mpg, you should be checking the air filters: requires more air to gain new burn efficiency.
As for asking oil companies… they aren’t going to tell you this is good for many reasons.
First, they CANNOT add the additive like others because it is so high end distillate that it won’t remain in storage for very long (it dissipates quickly)… and if they can’t control adding it they don’t want you to gain on their profit loss.
Second, if everyone did this and gained 10% mpg, the immediate loss of 10% market share w/o ANY profit going to Big Oil is a marketing “No-No” to them.
Third, the corporate farmers pushing ethanol have too much in the pockets of congress to let you know that something this simple works. They want you to burn ethanol (from corn) that maintains the fuel ‘inefficiency’ and keeps not only Big Oil company profits high, but adds another group to the mix in the corporate farmers of ethanol.
Lastly, if anything were going to damage an internal engine component, ethanol would at a ratio of 1:10 in your gasoline. Most cars built after ‘94 have compensated w/ updated neoprene, N-Buna, and nylon components to handle the ethanol mixtures. Acetone at the ratio mixes we are talking about is 1:200… so miniscule that it is basically immeasurable as to harmful effects on an engine.
The overall economic impact now w/ gasoline at $3.00/gal of even a 5% increase in mpg = net savings of $0.25/gal if you are purchasing acetone at $12/gal using it at a .25oz/gal ratio. Relationly, the effect is 5 cents per gallon for every percent increase you gain… and if you gained -0- mpg, you would still get a cleaner engine, prolonged engine oil life (less blow-by gas from cylinder rings into oil), and save the life of your catalytic converter… as well as CLEAN UP THE ENVIRONMENT! (Hey, if you are burning more of the same fuel, less of it is escaping into the air… “DUH!”)
So, you skeptics keep dumping your garbage out there. Anyone with common sense and a will to be environmentally cleaner will at least test the theory. You can see a noticeable difference in performance at the very least, and know that you are emitting much less hydrocarbons into the air.
What I have noticed is that Wal-Mart is now having to inventory more acetone on their shelves… just ask the mgr of the paint department. More ‘Joe Public’ is learning the truth than you skeptics!
Engine Life
in General Forums
Posted
In that case, this seems to have incorrect information:
http://www.pvgarage.com/sitebuildercontent...es/gatestbr.pdf
thanks