Jump to content

MJBBMANO

Members
  • Posts

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MJBBMANO

  1. I don't really know how to describe valvetrain noise if you haven't heard it and known what it is. It maybe (but probably not) could be poor engine oil pump output not supplying enough pressure to the hydraulic lifters at low engine speeds.

     

    I'm pretty sure 1997 and 1999 used the same engine. Look down to solution 1 to verify your spark plugs are wired correctly. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t4523930-1999_nissan_pathfinder_3_3l_4wd_start

     

    I'd call Courtesy Nissan Parts Desk and check the part number of NGK you should be using. If you are already at the recommended plug, you might ask them about going one step colder. If you are already one step hotter, go down to normal. To determine if yours is an early or late model 1997 to figure out the right plug, you may need your VIN available to give them. Don't trust parts stores to tell you the right plug when you have a split year car. Always go with the owner's manual or Nissan parts desk.

    http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/maintenance/ignition/-c-4700_7668_9113.html

     

    It could also maybe be a little bit of roughness caused by an intake/vacuum hose leak, that shows up when you are at high engine vacuum. Look around in your engine compartment for a hose with a hole or not connected.

    Thanks for the info. It looks like the wires are setup correctly. The plugs I put are NGK BKR5ES-11.

  2. Does it run fine? If it runs smoothly they're not out of order.

    It has a little knocking when I go in reverse slowly coming out of the garage and when I'm in drive and have the brake applied. Even more when the A/C is on and I'm at a stand still in drive. I thought it was the plugs so i changed them. I also notice the mechanic who did the tuneup last never gapped the plugs. I gapped the new ones I just put in.

  3. I changed my spark plugs today (NGK regular). I also replaced the wires with NGK wires. The ones I had were very cheap and broke when I was changing the spark plugs. I was looking at the wires and I feel that the mechanic who did the last tuneup put them out of order. Is there any diagram out there that would show me where each wire should go?

  4. some auto part stores offer a AC bypass pulley, but if the AC compressor is the only thing on that particular belt than you can either remove that belt or take the compressor out completely.

     

    Just noticed you have a 99 pathfinder, a manual I just checked shows the AC compressor belt has a tension pulley and that's it, so you would be able to just remove the belt, or the AC compressor and the tension pulley if you want it completely out

     

    My A/C compressor finally died. I only get hot air coming out now.

  5. you can buy the compressor with the clutch or without it, I would get one with the clutch that way you don't have to mess with it.Most auto part stores require you to replace the accumulator/drier at the same time as the compressor or they won't warranty the compressor. My tech told me the aftermarket rebuilt compressors suck and are only good for about a year, so far he has been right as in my Sentra I have replaced it 2 years in a row so far and it is making noise again, but now the auto parts store won't replace it.

     

    Here is a good site that sells all the AC parts you may need, they are usually a little cheaper than the auto part stores:

     

    this should take you right to the 97 pathfinder page

     

    http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Nissan97Pathfinder_3-3

     

    in comparison on my local auto parts page the compressor goes for $314

     

    Is this something I can change myself? the only exp I have is changing oil and spark plugs. Would I need any special tools?

  6. you can buy the compressor with the clutch or without it, I would get one with the clutch that way you don't have to mess with it.Most auto part stores require you to replace the accumulator/drier at the same time as the compressor or they won't warranty the compressor. My tech told me the aftermarket rebuilt compressors suck and are only good for about a year, so far he has been right as in my Sentra I have replaced it 2 years in a row so far and it is making noise again, but now the auto parts store won't replace it.

     

    Here is a good site that sells all the AC parts you may need, they are usually a little cheaper than the auto part stores:

     

    this should take you right to the 97 pathfinder page

     

    http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Nissan97Pathfinder_3-3

     

    in comparison on my local auto parts page the compressor goes for $314

     

    thanks for the info.

     

    I made it to Tampa and back. :)

  7. mine did the same thing end of last fall. your bearings in the clutch are going out. not to far into the future its going to start whining like a power steering pump without fluid, then sieze up. if its running while it seizes, it'll just break the clutch loose. your engine is way more powerful than the compressor, if it doesnt break the clutch, the belt will just slip around it. i just took my belt off for the time being. you can rebuild the clutch housing, but its WAY easier to replace the whole thing, and more likely to live longer.

     

    Thanks for the replies. My A/C still cools the same. The only thing is that when I put the blower switch to "2" its very low like "1". When I put it at "3" its like being on "2". Like I said earlier its been doing this for 3 years.

    When I put a new compressor in that compressor will also have a clutch? Does anyone know the part number or part name I need? I have seen some that say clutch or no clutch. Are there any other parts I need to change that are part of the compressor?

     

    So I'm ok ok to drive to Tampa and back. (65-70 miles each way).

     

    Thanks again.....

  8. as long as the AC clutch is not engaged it shouldn't effect anything if the compressor takes a crap, usually when you turn on the AC if the clutch doesn't engage it means the freon is low, one way to determine if it is low is to locate the low pressure switch on or near the accumulator/drier, unplug the connector and use a jumper between the 2 pins in the plug, if the clutch engages it would indicate the freon is low.

     

    The compressor making noise, first you need to verify if it is the compressor itself or it may be an idler pulley if your truck has one. On my 90 sentra I was hearing a noise and pinpointed it down to the compressor, took off the belt that just runs the compressor and the noise stopped, my car does have the idler or tensioner pulley but noise was not coming from it.

    I added freon like 2 months ago but it wasn't that. When I turn the A/C on you hear a loud click. I really don't know what the clutch is. Is it something I can find?

     

    Thanks

  9. My A/C compressor has been making noise now for at least 2 years. Sometimes when the cold air isn't coming out I have to Press the A/C button a few times and it kicks in.

    My question is, If the A/C compressor stops working all together will it cause my truck to turn off while driving or not turn on at all? I'm driving this week to Tampa which is about 60 miles and don't want to get stuck.

     

    I have a 1997 Pathfinder LE.

     

    Thanks in advance!

  10. When you say weight oil you mean the type for example 5w30? If so I will check and let you know. What type of oil should be in there? I have 173,000 miles on the truck (1997 LE).

     

    Ok its now been a bit over a month and the noise never came back. I'm going to have believe they never put enough oil in it.

  11. well a few things on this, to keep it simple. your knock sensor can throw both of those codes. but getting to it to replace it, is a weekend project in and of itself. replacing your o2 sensors wouldnt hurt anyway, considering, of course, if you know the last time they were updated...

     

    I've had the Knock Sensor code appear for about 5 years, but the "Service Engine Soon" light hasn't come for that. last week the light finally came on and when advanced auto parts connected the computer it said the Knock sensor (of course) and something about and emission house. Does that sound right? If so what is that?

  12. It wasn't low So they added a quart? I have to go with they didn't put enough in to begin with and don't want to admit it. What weight oil was used? If some stupidly low weight it could not have been thick enough to build pressure causing the light. Initial thought still lean to being low though...

     

    When you say weight oil you mean the type for example 5w30? If so I will check and let you know. What type of oil should be in there? I have 173,000 miles on the truck (1997 LE).

  13. A sticking lifter will tick, but it won't necessarily hurt anything unless it goes completely dead. Your oil light being on indicates either low oil, or the oil pump not providing enough pressure so sufficiently lubricate the engine. If the oil pump is going bad, you can expect your engine life to be cut down to nothing. If it's a sticky lifter that's not being fully pumped with oil, the problem is relatively minor.

     

    Since the sound went away I would suspect that it was in fact low on oil and the proper amount of oil helped build enough pressure to pump the lifter back up. I'd say if the noise went away then you're fine.

     

    If the lifter goes completely dead will my truck stop running? Can the lifter be replaced? How many lifters are there? Can the oil pump be replaced?

    After adding 1 quart of oil the ticking stopped on the drive home which is about 15 min. Thank you so much for helpig me out. I love this site!

  14. I don't see how the mechanic could foreshadow the death of your engine just from a simple ticking noise. Somebody please tell me if I'm crazy or if I'm missing something here.

     

    I was ticking, I mean thinking the same thing. I'm taking it to a real mechanic (No franchise) next week. Hopefully some one on this forum might be able to tell me what it is. The Tire Kingdom mechanic said the sound is something inside the engine that starts with "L". I don't remeber the name of it. I'm afraid to drive the truck.

  15. I heard a ticking sound coming from my engine. I had the oil changed 2 weeks ago at Tire Kingdom. Today when I was driving the oil light came on and there was a ticking noise coming from the engine. I went to Tire Kingdom and they said I wasn't that low on oil. They added a quart and the oil light turned off. The mechanic at Tire Kingdom said my engine is about to die because after adding the oil you could still hear the ticking a bit. When I was driving back home the sound went away. I parked the truck and 3 hours later I turned the truck back on and it didn't tick. Is my engine dying? Should I keep driving it? Any suggestions?

     

    Thanks.

  16. I also heard a ticking sound coming from my engine. I had the oil changed 2 weeks ago at Tire Kingdom. Today when I was driving the oil light came on and there was a ticking noise coming from the engine. I went to Tire Kingdom and they said I wasn't that low on oil. They added a quart and the oil light turned off. The mechanic at Tire Kingdom said my engine is about to die because after adding the oil you could still hear the ticking a bit. When I was driving back home the sound went away. I parked the truck and 3 hours later I turned the truck back on and it didn't tick. Is my engine dying? Should I keep driving it? Any suggestions?

     

    Thanks.

  17. Even if you wanted, you can't get the back aligned. Its a solid axle. It stays where its at at all times (which would be 0). SO, only the front is to be aligned. Don't let anyone fool you and tell you the back needs it too so they can charge you for nothing.

     

    Jose

     

     

    Thanks Jose,

     

    The Nissan Dealer($89.99)and Allied Tires($79.99)said I need a 4 wheel alignment. I found a local mechanic shop that charges $29.99 for front wheel alignment and another place charges $49.99 for a 4 wheel alignment. Nissan mentioned something about using laser to line up the front wheels with the rear wheels.

  18. Thanks for the info.

    I guess mine is leaking because its 12 years old. Its the original radiator. Im being charged $70 to install it if I bring the parts.

     

    Ok so I finally changed the radiator. I got radiator on ebay for $66.00. I had installed for $64.00. I got my own upper and lower hoses and clamps. The total cost for this job was $165.00. I feel this price was good.

    My next thing is the rack and pinion. I was driving home on Saturday and when I'm on a curve I have to turn the wheel more then normal. It feels like I'm sliding. The tires are brand new so i know its not that. I stopped driving the truck until I get the rack and pinion. I was told now by every mechanic I've seen that the whole thing needs to be changed. The bushings are done with. It really sucks not knowing about fixing cars.

     

    Any suggestions?

×
×
  • Create New...