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goatcola

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Posts posted by goatcola

  1. My first '87 pathy had a factory radiator with a relativel thin core and it barely kept up. It was a 5 speed, with A/C from factory.

    That is the only WD I've seen that was any different from all the rest.

     

    I suspect the Intrepid fan you have has the capacity to move every bit as much as the stock. Just make sure the edges are somewhat sealed (no gaps over 1/8" or so).

     

    Again, if the problem is occuring at speeds under 30 mph, the fan matters. Over 30 or so, fan does not matter. I shut mine off entirely over 30 mph. The air being pushed through by "wind pressure" exceeds what any fan could pull.

     

    You don't have any obstructions to airflow, do you? Like bull bars or driving lights in front of grill, or mesh screening covering up any openings? Or a super large skid plate under the engine? Or removed the chin spoiler/air dam from under the bumper?

    I think the fan sits all the way against the radiator. I normally do turn the fan off whenon the highway, but the othe day when i went to Austin it got about 3/4 up the temp gauge and had to turn the fan back on. Besides the 3" body lift the front is all stock. There is nothing blocking the airflow. I think I might try to get an all copper 2-row radiator and see if that helps. For the most part (especially on the trail) the temp stays pretty good. Thanks for some of your tips.

  2. adding water capacity to a cooiling system does nothing but increase the time it takes for the engine to warm up. you need to increase surface area and air flow to extract more heat from the system. you might benefit from just adding an electric fan in front of the radiator. just wire in a relay to the a/c clutch power wire. or run it from a toggle switch so you can turn it on when the temp starts to climb.

     

    i have a 2-row all copper radiator in my '87, and am running dual fans from a ~88 maxima that had the vg30i. the maxima radiator is almost identical to the pathy's.... you do have to modify the drivers side fan bracket to clear the steering box. it cools like a champ. its currently around 105 outside. it really helps if you take the radiator to a shop and have them rod it out. and its really nice not having that monsterous fan mounted to the engine to throw mud around when you get in the deep stuff.

    So do you think getting a 2-row radiator would be beneficial? I am running a dual fan from a 96 intrepid. It covers all but about an inch and a half at the top of the radiator. It runs a little above half when the AC is on and it is good and hot. I do not know what the the highest safe area is, being there is no actual temp readings. On the trail the at idle all day. the elec. fan works like a dream.

  3. Have you checked for junk traped between the condenser and the radiator? If you do allot of hiway driving the cooling fins can get pluged up with bug chunks and other hiway garbage.

    It looks pretty clean. I always try to keep that cleaned out, especially after a little mud wheelin'.

  4. Changing fluid capacities on specifically designed/engineered systems can really screw things up.

     

    Heck I thought that removing the thermostat would help keep things cooler, right? I asked around and the consenus was that (learning from doing) without that thermostat there to restrict the flow, the engine wouldn't transfer enough heat to the radiator, (the water wasn't staying put long enough to heat up) and the block would overheat! :crossedwires:

     

    Rather than just 'shooting from the hip' and changing factors in a ballanced system, it would be best to mod up your truck rather than converting it. By this I mean, the addition of an aftermarket fan to aid the radiator in it's coolling is the best thing to do. Probably the cheapest. Certainly the easiest!

     

    This is of course, taking the assumption that your engine is clean, and isn't covered in dirt and grease (which traps in heat).

    And thinking that you're smart enough to have flushed the radiator a couple time during your ownership.

     

    Oh, BTW I have a radiator shroud in my back yard that I pulled off my 1988 Nissan. If you don't have one, you'll be amazed how much it helps. I'll sell it to ya for cheap, if you're interested.

    Thanks for the tips. I think if I continue to have issues, I will get the radiator drop kit and put the clutch fan back on. The radiator is only a few months old and I am running Water Wetter and water after recently flushing the system. and I still have my original fan and shroud (just in case i needed it).

    Thanks though.

  5. as far as i know, all d21's all came with mechanical fans.

    electric fans have massively reduced output compared with mechanical fans, can be up to 1/10th the output.

    you would also be surprised the difference the plastic shroud makes, but i know with a body lift they would have to be modified to work.

     

    i would start by pulling the radiator out and just giving it a good clean inside & out, rinse out all the old coolant from the block and put new coolant in with a new genuine thermostat. then see if anything has changed.

    I did not know that a mechanical fan had greater pulling power. I thought is was teh other way around. The radiator is new and I flushed the system not to long ago. I was thinking of building a sheet metal shroud to atach the dual electric fan to. That might increas the pulling area. I think they might make a lowering kit for the radiator if none of this works.

    Thanks.

  6. is there actually a problem??

    theres many things that cause a cooling system to not operate as the manufacturer intended.

    radiators are a balance between surface area & air flow thru.

    having found this out the expensive way, a 'bigger' radiator doesn't always mean better cooling

     

    My truck tends to run a little hotter when running at highway speeds with the AC on. I was wondering if a little more water capacity would help it run a little cooler. I am runnig a dual electric cooling fan because of the 3" body lift.

  7. I am looking for an after-market radiator with more cooling/water capacity. I can't seem to find anything other than OEM replacment. I live in Texas, and it is hot most of the year. I would like to find something with more than one row of cooling journals. Does anyone have any leads? Thanks.

    Chance

  8. Listen to the man, for he speaks the truth!!!!!

     

    I have been searching for a complete rear carrier and front diff with 4.6's for months now and all but one... that's *1* ...auto that I have seen in wrecking yards has had 4.3 gears in it! The one truck that I did find that had 4.6's was at a yard that wanted a combined $550 for the two units and would not budge on the price! :blink:

     

    I told him that they were not gold, turned and walked out :nono:

    I just swaped out my 4.6's for some 5.14's in my 94 XC. So i have a perfectly good set of front 4.6's sitting in a box in my garage. I also have carrier out of an 88' and the lsd out of my 94 w/ 4.6 gears ( I used the open diff out hte 88 for my lock right). Let me know if you are interested and we can work somthing out. I live in San antonio TX. I will also have a complete front here in a few months when i get my SAS complete. It will be about a week befor I can get back to the net. I work offshore in the gulf.

  9. okay.... i know the lock right is for open diff but can i change my LSD so i can use the lock right or am i suck using the complete detroit locker assembly? 4x4parts.com sell the lock right for 279.00 and the detroit assembly for 595.00?

     

    maybe, i should just stick with the LSD and stay out of the big boys sand box.

     

    This line of questioning, shows that i've never worked on a diff. before. but i am very handy and fast learner with cars. and i can read a manual!

     

    I just did this exact swap about two weeks ago. I went to a junkyard and got an open diff (actually the whole axle, it was cheaper that way) out of an 88 model. I took the open diff carrier out of the 88 axle and put it in my 94 third member with out a problem. I even changed to 5.14 gears also for my 33" MTR's. It was my first time with a diff swap also. but like you said, you can read a manual. You will need a dial indicator to set the gear back lash. And also a bearing puller to swap the bearings on thecarrier. There is no need to spend the extra money on a detroit unless you are planning on running bigger than 35" tires. I could not beleive the difference the locker made. I was able to go up things that i used to have to have 4x4. Happy hunting.

  10. That would be correct 88. Well, actually a Infiniti tech now, but I still have access to pretty much anything nissan 94 and newer. Plus I have access to AllData online. Glad I could help. Did you put some grease on the gears and give her a spin to see how and where the gears mesh? If you set it up correctly you should be fine reguardless.

    I did and everything looked good. It also only needs to last for a few more months until I get a chance to do my SAS. I have a D44 out of 80's wagoneer on the way. thanks for the help.

  11. I have decided to take on the task of doing my gears myself, however I can not seem to find any specs on the gear mesh backlash and torque specs for the various components in the diff. If any one knows the info or where to obtain it, it would be greatly appreciated. I already installed the rear 5.14 gears and (lock right) locker, works amazing. I am getting ready to tackle the front tommorow. Thanks.

    Chance

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