pktzygt
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Posts posted by pktzygt
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This just started recently. When I let off the clutch in 1st gear from a stop I get a shudder/large vibration through the whole truck (enough to make my cd skip). This only happens in 1st gear, not even in reverse. It doesn't feel like it is slipping and puls strongly and shifts smoothly. Once i get off the clutch and just driving in 1st gear, it's fine.
I did an auto to manual swap a couple years ago. I used a new clutch and flywheel from autozone with the lifetime warranty and new throwout bearing and pilot bushing. Any ideas?
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Yesterday I pulled and recleaned the wires coming off the battery. I disconnected the amp power at the battery and pulled the headunit and wiggled wires. I nothing yet. The only positive connection that is still connected from the amp is the remote turn-on lead. I'm going to disconnect that and completely remove the amp tonight to see what happens.
I'll start looking at the wires under the passenger side of the hood and see if I have a short in the harness where it goes through the firewall.
Does anyone know of any grounds that go to the engine other than the starter and the little flat braided one on the drivers side (if i remember correctly it went right to the upper side of the block)?
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Where did you ground the stereo?
I grounded the headunit to one of the supports for the center console. The amp is grounded to one of the rear seat brackets.
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I have a 1990 Pathy. When I hit a bump, my head unit cuts off and the tach cuts off for a quick second then both come back on. It is such a short period of time that the tach needle never hits zero. I have a new battery and have cleaned the terminals and cables. I just though someone might know of an issue that would be connecter to both the tach and stereo.
I'm going to go unplug my headunit and drive over some potholes later and see if that takes care of it. I don't think it is the stereo wiring though because I soldered and shrink wrapped everything.
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cut the origional wireing and go to a realay. Just like a set of spotties. I have already looked into it. Just need to do it twice for hi and low beam..... And just wire it into the existing switch on the colum
So, basically I would need a triple throw double throw relay for the parking light, headlights and high beams? I need to wire it between those 3 I listed above and any interrupted power wire from the truck? It looks like I need to brush up on my relay knowledge. I don't remember how the wiring goes.
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The thing that chimes when the door is open and the headlights are on is malfunctioning. It chimes when the headlights are off....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't work at all.
Instead of troubleshooting a bunch of stuff that doesn't work the way I want ti to, I would prefer to disconnect the annoying chime and do it my way. So, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I want to wire it so that the headlights and parking lights will turn off when I turn the key to the off position.
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Mine has a hissing sounds as well. It's most likely your fuel pump.
Normal fuel pump sound that i never noticed before? Or fuel pump that has issues?
I have been patiently awaiting the cat to get here in the mail. I'll check mileage and look at o2 sensors next probably.
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I might just have never noticed it before, but I definately heard a hissing sound. I am getting awful gas mileage. Like 10mpg. I'm on 32" MT's and wasn't exactly getting great mileage before. I think my cat is toast and have a magnaflow on order and will be repairing an exhaust leak at the y-pipe gasket at the same time. I checked the trouble codes today and got nothing. I recently did a body lift, but the new longer fuel filler hoses seem to be intact and installed properly. I see no fuel leaking.
Well, not that everyone knows that my truck is a big 'ol POS. Could this be contributing to the bad mileage? Do you know if it's normal? Is it the fuel pump? I'll probably have to get the cat on and find out. I was hoping to figure out something before I get the cat on so I don't kill the new on too.
P.S. For those card carrying PETA members, I don't really kill cats.
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Well I replaced the battery but it still went flat after half a dozen starts and it died at a busy intersection on the way home from work (gotta love murphys law eh?) I have charged the battery since and its working at the moment. I was told Nissan alternators have a tendancy to stuff a diode or something which causes them to lose charge when the truck is turned off and the battery is hooked up. Could that be the trouble?
Alternators and water don't mix. It sounds to me like you killed the alternator. You have eliminated your battery as being the problem. Now, why is the battery not charging??? Take the alternator off and take it to the auto parts store. All the auto parts stores that I've worked at tested alternators, starters and batteries for free. (Wierd, i just heard an autozone commercial while I was typing this). Testing the alternator is cheaper than guessing and throwing more money at your truck unnecessarily. Also remember that if you take a brand new battery and run it down then jump it over and over, it will not last as long. I have not done it myself, but some do a nissan quest alternator which should be direct fit and puts out higher amps.
Good luck
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No offense taken
Problem is, while I'm ABLE to weld... my skills are barely "novice" level... plus I'm worried I'd set stuff on fire XD And we don't have a MIG machine... we can rent one but eh... and the 220 line is a problem as the nearest one is almost 200 feet away in my house... >_>
OxyAcetalyn I'm better with... but I only have an Oxy / MAPP gas torch... and maybe enough of each gas for about 20-30 minutes of Brazing... no idea for actual Welding...
I'd love to have it professionally repaired... and with the job I just got today, I might have a chance to do so
GOOD POINT!!! Whatever you do, make sure you put a welding blanket over the gas tank while you're welding.
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CODES
in The Garage
I was looking around when I pulled the computer and I think there is a sensor missing that should get pushed in when the clutch is all of the way out. It WILL crank without the clutch needing to be depressed.Some trucks have a little switch on the dash called a "Clutch start override switch" to allow you to start the truck without the clutch in. It's a 4 wheeling thing. When I did my auto to manual tranny swap on my 1990, I never connected the wiring for that switch on the clutch and it hasn't caused me any driveability problems. Fuel injector, maybe??? Sorry, I am better at figuring out what the problem isn't than what it is.
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Not to offend anyone, but why not fix it right the first time? I've asked this same question before, do a search. Here's what I did. Cut out all the rust, weld in new metal. MIG since you have access to one. Borrow someone's 220v dryer plug. Coat in rust proofer. No need for expensive POR-15, but use something then put the seat brackets back in properly. Otherwise you have your seats being held in place by a piece of metal that is fiberglassed into the truck. or you have a piece of meal that is rivetted in that will flex every time you sit on that seat and will crack the rustproofer and will still rust again. You'll be feel good when it's done this way.
Good luck.
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Cool....I was not going the Centerforce route...too much money...and I figured an OEM would be just fine anyway.
scott
I got a clutch and flywheel at either Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone for really cheap when I did my conversion. Both had lifetime warranty. But I didn't take Tommy boy's advise...
"Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for right now, for your sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality item from me."
So a guarantee could be worthless, but if I'm going to go through the trouble of taking that damn tranny off again. I want a free clutch. I had heard good things about the clutch I used and it hasn't failed me in the last year. I'm just happy it's not a stiff high performance clutch.
Good luck
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I did a body lift first due to the price.
Some advice....
Without a lift, the body lift would have been a nightmare. I took my time and triple checked everything broing taken off and again during reinstallation. I must have raised and lowered the truck a dozen times and it took me the better part of the day. I ended up using my little Ryobi battery powered impact alot more than the 1/2" air impact. I got by without the radiator drop kit (cut the shroud) or the gap guards (i figure it will be easier to hose the mud off without them).
I figure that a suspension lift would have been done before lunch.
Good luck
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The rears probably will, but I have no clue if they will or not, but I do the fronts will. I actually have rear shocks for an Xterra on my 93's rear
.Great, I may go this route after I get my motor swap done on the 914 in spring.
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The fronts are the same size on HB and Pathy, and no different for any lift accept the Trail master.
Are you saying that ONLY the front shocks and not the rear shocks from the Rough Country lift will work on the pathfinder? That looks like a heck of a deal even if only 2 shocks fit.
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I remember the speed sensor having one bolt holding it in and don't pull on the mechanical sensor cable too hard or it will pull from the back of the speedo. You don't want to pull apart the dash and try and do this.
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the PO swapped the trans (5spM/T) they put in a trans with an electronic sensor but I have a mech speedo. can I swap this out or would it be better to just buy an Aftermarket elec speedo. I just watch my tach now for speed info but having a cruise control would be nice (especially for us old lazy folks) they also snafu'd all of the wiring connections (4wd light would come on when I put it in rev) still working on that but would like to resolve the speedo problem while I'm laying around under it. Could it be as simple as swapping out the sensor?
I did the auto to manual conversion on a WD21. I just swapped the sensor for the manual speedo in the auto for the electronic one in the newer 5speed. As far as the 4wd sensor goes, they just crossed the wires. If you search for the threads on here for auto to manual swap, you can find the wiring guide for an R50. Between that guide and a chiltons, you should be able to figure it out. If not, let me know and I'll go out there and look. It's like 20 degrees F and I'd rather not right now.
Good luck!
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I have a '73 porsche 914 that i'm cutting up and using to patch the holes under my seat. Hybrid porsche nissan! I eventually need to haul it to a scrap yard or sell it, but i'll make use of it until I do.
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And good luck getting them in if the tires have already been on the road as the holes will fill in with small rocks.
If they are still unused, just get a tire shop to do it and save yourself a lot of grief. If driven already, forget it.
OK, there's the answer I'm going with. Forget it. Thanks for the lesson on driving equipment unique to the North-east.
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Does anyone know where to buy #15 ice studs? I'm stationed in Maine for one winter and have studdable tires so I figure I might as well use studs while i'm here. And how hard are they to install?
The next step will be to go to a local tire shop and ask them. I'd rather buy online if they're not too hard to install myself.
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Thanks for everyone's help!
Okay, I did a bleeding of the system it didn't appear to change anything significantly. I hope to replace the thermostat soon and I'll let you know how that goes. Do I need some liquid gasket to do this job properly? Is so, is there a certain kind that is best?
Thermostats come with temperature ratings. The rating will tell you when it opens up. If you drive in the desert, you're going to want one that opens up lower. If you drive in snow 36 days a year you want one that will open up at a higher temp so that your heat will get hotter. I'm from Washington DC suburbs so i have one at a middle temp range. Just pick one based on driving habits and it should have a gasket with it and if not the parts store should have one. Pick up a chiltons manual, it should lay out everything I told you alot beter than I could.
Good luck.
By the way, MAXIMA.ORG has some very knowledgable people on it. It seems that us nissan people have to become a little knowledgable and inventive due to lack of aftermarket support for our cars. I have a maxima buddy on that site with a supercharged max who knows all kinds of stuff about maximas that you wouldn't believe
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So I was finishing up my MT swap when I realized (from another post) that I have to use the Tcase out of my 95 for my speedo to work. The Tcase that came mated with the MT is out of a 91, so no go. I got the Tcase off the 95 auto tranny in about 20 minutes. I tried to remove the MT Tcase while under the truck and there was just no way I could seperate it from the tranny. So I just went ahead and pulled the tranny+tcase back out. Is there any trick to breaking the seal between the Tcase and tranny? I wrapped a tow strap around the tcase, stood the tranny up and tried to lift the tcase off the tranny with my engine crane and it just wont budge, the whole setup just lifted into the air. Any ideas?
I did the exact MT swap into my '90. You can probably see some of the goop they used to seal the tranny to the transfer case, and you think "ohh, that can't be stuck on there that well." WRONG! I think i used a prybar and a couple blocks of wood and pried against the various ears that bolts go through. I also remember destroying a fairly heavy rubber mallet in the process somewhere. Just make sure you don't beat on it too much of an angle, you don't want to take the chance of breaking something in the tranny. Don't worry, it'll come off eventually.
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There are a couple more bolts on the 4-door. That's it as far as I know.
I really don't think AC is fair in charging 10-20 extra dollars for 4 extra bolts.
I don't think that I mentiones AC at all.
I was trying to be nice. Once I install the lift I plan on talking to them about updating their site. That way I have definitive proof with pics if needed.
Shudder when starting in 1st gear
in The Garage
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I'll check on those when I get home. I wsa thinking about the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing, but whe would that happen only in first gear. Last night i had an idea though. What do you think about a motor or tranny mount. It might make sense that a mount might be out and it would affect the vibration based on foward or reverse rotation of the tranny.