[Yet Another Exhaust Question]

Turbo diesel, wash your mouth out my boy.

We are fitting a gen3 5.7lt, not into oil burners, to slow, got to have enough power to spin all 4 wheels on the tar.

280kws at the flywheel is so much more fun

[Yet Another Exhaust Question]

what do you mean by the new tighter lsd? can you tighten the stock lsd or do you have to replace it? what did you do and where you get the stuff from?

 

 

When i had my rear diff rebuilt i got the mechanic to tighten the clutch pack up about 25% more than standard.

It now reacts more like a ford detroit locker, just a little more flexible.

It still a has a bit of free drive in tight corners but when power is applied it drives both wheels without any slip at all.

Even on dry tar roads it will easily spin both wheels on take off, it is a necessity when you have more power and big rubber.

[replace struts with coilovers?]

Hey guys,

We are 99% finished our 5inch lift kits for R50's, our struts are bigger, thicker and longer than what is in the picture.

They are full custom coil over struts, new springs new rear shocks, lower control arms panhard bar, brakelines etc...

We will have full bolt in kits available in the next 4 weeks, engine swap kits about 6 weeks away and solid diff bolt in kit should be done by july this year.

[Yet Another Exhaust Question]

Ok, I had to answer my own question due to the lack of answers. So here's the best I got.

 

After MUCH research on exhaust principle (without delving directly into physics gas laws, thermodynamics, etc.) and to answer my own questions about what I can do with my exhaust system, I’ve made up a quick exhaust guide. I’ve included the links at the end if you want to get a little more in-depth knowledge. My only caveat is that I’m no physicist and I’m only giving the most basic explanation I can, so I’m not 100% correct on any of this. Also, keep in mind that forced induction changes some of the rules of the game, so you’d have to adjust for any kind of FI application.

To begin with, since exhaust system building and tuning is essentially an art, my suggestion is find someone who has mastered this art and pay him or her to do your exhaust system. Also, exhaust systems do not “produce power.” They reduce the power lost by the motor attempting to expel exhaust gases out through the exhaust pipes.

 

Here are the 3 main principles you have to take into consideration in regards to an exhaust system:

 

1. Exhaust Pulses

2. Restrictiveness

3. Exhaust Heat & Gas Expansion

 

Exhaust pulses are just how frequently the piston is pushing the exhaust gases out of the chamber. A 4 cyl. engine at 4000 rpms creates ~8,400 pulses a minute. Ideally you want each pulse to line up right behind each other. This is why headers are tuned to be the same length with minimal bends. If the pulse off cylinder 4 crashes into pulse off cylinder 1 (assuming they don’t cancel each other out), they don’t flow out of the pipe correctly and that creates a small amount of restriction and turbulence. Multiply that by the number of times it occurs in a minute and you can see the power loss.

 

Restrictiveness is the simplest to answer. The catalytic converter, a muffler, bends in the pipe and anything else that gets in the way of the flow of the gases all slow down the movement in the exhaust pipes and cause the engine to work harder to expel those gases out through the pipes. The ideal is to reduce the restrictions in the exhaust pipe to the minimal amount possible, but not without first taking into account for…

 

Gas Expansion. Exhaust gases are HOT and under high pressure. Exhaust gases cool as they work their way down the pipes. The problem occurs when the gases enter a larger area allowing them to expand which allows them to cool faster than the gases behind them. Cooler gases are denser and harder to move. This is how you can lose low-end torque by attaching larger pipes to your system. You suddenly have the hot, high pressure gases enter into a larger area allowing them to cool and expand and become denser and heavier. The hot, high pressure gases right behind them run into that denser air and can’t push it down the pipe as fast as they were going. Then the gases behind them can’t move those gases as fast, increasing the pressure back up the exhaust all the way to the piston, which must push harder to push the stream of exhaust gases out through the pipes and draining more power out of the engine. You see the power loss disappear at higher RPMs due to the increased speed at which the gases flow and the decreased rate at which the gases cool as they move down through the exhaust pipes.

 

So, all that being said, there are general rules for the size of pipe you want for the size of displacement you have. The following rules I stole from one of the links:

 

For NA engines:

100 – 150ci motor = 2” tubing

150 – 220ci motor = 2.25” tubing

220 – 350ci motor = 3” tubing

OR:

1639 – 2458cc motor = 5.08cm tubing

2458 – 3605cc motor = 5.72cm tubing

3605 – 5735cc motor = 7.62cm tubing

 

I’ve heard and read about the requirements of backpressure. For a 4 stroke engine, this technically shouldn’t be required, but due to valve timing (as valves are not perfectly timed for 99% of engines) there is usually a small period when both intake and exhaust valves are open and a small amount of backpressure would be required so that none of the air/fuel mixture is allowed to vent out through the exhaust valves. This would technically allow a varying degree of lean burn and hence power loss and increased emissions. So depending on the timing of your valves and the force with which the air/fuel mixture is entering the cylinder, you will want the optimal amount of back pressure to keep from venting it out. (On the contrary, too much back pressure can cause the exhaust gases to remain in the chamber causing lean burn and loss of power.) However, manufacturers design a tiny, specific amount of that into the engine in order to facilitate complete burning of the fuel and reduce noxious emissions.

 

So, in summary, a properly designed exhaust system improves the efficiency of an engine by reducing the power required by the engine to expel exhaust gases.

 

Hope I helped clear up a lot of peoples’ questions. I’ve come to the general conclusion that the best order of upgrades (in regards only to moving air in and out of the motor) for the VG33E engine goes something along the lines of Camshaft, Intake Upgrade and then Exhaust Upgrade. Not the easiest way to go, but given that they’re basically air pumps it makes the most sense to me. It does allow you to get the optimal flow, as the cam on a given displacement with a given head will set the maximum amounts possible for intake and exhaust, the intake will determine if the motor can pull all air it can handle, and then the exhaust just determines the efficiency of expelling the air that the cam allowed the motor to breathe through the intake. Head porting fits in there after the camshaft, but I’m trying to keep this simple.

 

All of you Nissan Techs please feel free to chime in for additional information.

 

I didn't get any specifics, but I at least figured out it's not worth changing much more than the muffler right now until I get a better cam, do some head porting and put in a proper cold air intake.

 

Here are the links:

http://www.physicsforums.com/s...54363

http://warnertechnology.com/Ca...shtml

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm

http://www.miata.net/garage/Kn....html

http://member.rivernet.com.au/...p.htm

http://www.aaxel.com/tech_back_pressure.php

http://www.thrashercharged.com....shtm

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/h...h.htm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ok, we are working with 3.3lt in our 96 R50

The muffler is a walker(aust) muffler, it is a dual 2inch in and dual 2inch out muffler, it has an internal crossover in it that works to equalize the pipes.

As i said we did a few bit of changing and swapping to get the end result we wanted.

The total system cost me $400 aust, it isnt loud but does has a nice deep sound, when i get the pathy started i will try to record it and post it on youtube,

Just got to try to remember to do that before we start the engine swap,

[So you want to lift your 96-up Pathy?]

will stock struts and shocks(sachs) work with OME springs, or are the OME springs/struts longer? is sachs a good brand?

 

 

I have found that there is so many shock/spring combo's out there that it really ends up being whatever your happy with, sach's, ome, gabriel, monroe, pedders etc all have good points and bad points,

We went out and found someone that would make new springs and full length custom struts(5 inchs longer than standard) to suit our own design.

That took a long time, more than 6 mths ringing and chatting to people in the industry to find someone that would listen to us and work with us.

 

The new struts add 4 1/2 inchs of compression and more than 5 inchs more extension over standard, we went the same way with the rear springs and shocks, they are full length custom stuff, just think guys, 5 inchs higher a but will still compress to same depth as the original and more than 7 inchs more extension than originals.

There are some that love ome stuff and some don't, me personally, i have found that all the aftermarket equipment on the market for R50 pathy's has left me wanting more, bars(front and rear), snorkels...what a joke, sump guards, and more.

I have spent the last 12mths designing tube bars(winch and non winch) front and rear, high mount towbar(more than 7 inchs more height than original) and now the full high lift suspenion, the only aust legal 5 inch lift.

 

Next in the making is a full replacement front suspension set-up, it is a bolt in frame, spring and shock mounts, solid diff, new brakes, driveshaft, brake lines, wiring for ABS,new shocks and springs bolts, nuts, etc

Yes bolt in, no welding

It will give R50 pathy's a totally new outlook, more articulation than ever possible with the factory IFS, more variation in lifts and better load carrying ability.

The 5.7lt gen3 engine swap will also be available as a kit too.

[Which Suspension lift package?]

If anyone is interested, we have almost finished our 5 inch lift kit here.

It is a complete kit, front struts, no spacer, rear springs(new not rewound or stretched), lower longer control arms, panhard rod, brake lines, brackets etc.....springs can be done for standard ride or load carrying etc..we also do stainless snorkels too

http://mypathy.com/gallery2/v/brens+path/

Some pictures of us at play and snorkels in action

[Yet Another Exhaust Question]

Hi, i tried 3 different set ups before finder the one that worked,

I found that a full 2 inch twin system, twin mufflers welded together and twin pipes out the back worked best,

i got 23kws at the wheels and a great sound.

Running big pipes makes less back pressure and on a standard motor you will lose bottom end and mid range power.

Mid range is where i was looking for more power and thats where i got mine, from 2000rpm - 4000rpm i have a 30% increase in torque.

A more open air box and pod filter helped here too.

In the dry i can spin the wheels out of corners and drift up to about 110kph(65mph approx)

In the wet its more that a hand full with the new tighter lsd i have.

[So you want to lift your 96-up Pathy?]

Hey guys, we have almost finish a complete 5 inch lift kit,

We have full custom front struts(coil over style)

custom longer lower control arms, custom wound rear springs, these can be do for ride or extra load carrying,

lower panhard rod,sub frame spacers, steering extenion, brake lines, brackets etc

I currently run 33/12.50x15 mugrel muddies, with a 2 1/2 inch lift, lower arms, and cut front guards.

http://mypathy.com/gallery2/v/brens+path/

pictures of my pathy can be seen here.

[Hi from down under]

LOL, yes it was a fun day, most of the time i spent in 2wd trying to spray my mates with as much mud as possible

[Hi from down under]

Hi and thanks for the welcomes and the info on the lift(spacers),

We have started our own 5 inch lift kit here,

We have the front struts and rear springs done, the front struts are full custom one piece coil over style unit.

Now getting custom made rear shocks made.

We have custom lower rear arms, longer that stock and heaps stronger.

The front has 3" more compression travel and 4" more extension travel, rear will about the same compression and more than 7 " extension.

My pathy pictures can be seen on

here.

We also have some great pics on there of us getting down and dirty too.

[belt squeal]

Well over here in Australia guys, if our belts squeal we either tighten them or if they are already tight enough we grab a bar of normal hand soap and rub it on the drive faces of the belts, stops most squealing because of the pig fat that soap makers put in it....hm, washing in pig fat, lovely thought isn't it....not

[Hi from down under]

Hi all,

I have just joined your forum and thought i should say hello to all,

I have an R50 3.3lt, We have fitted custom from and rear tube bars, 2" lift(about to go for 5"), extra lights(6 at the moment), custom high mount tow bar(hitch), 3 lcd screens, 2 amps, 2x15' subs, dvd player, uhf, alloy sump guard, full twin exhaust, high flow filter and more...

I would like to if there is anybody that makes the front sub frame spacers that i've seen used by some of you guys in the states, most things here have to custom made as our after market 4x4 suppliers