Bozer1991

I bought a new set of reman'd injectors, best I could find online. Much more expensive, but worth it at this point. They arrive tomorrow and ill install asap. The MAF ground wire repair only got me marginally better. Still runs poorly. Im leaning in to this faulty injector theory. I hope it works, I'm out of options! Will report tomorrow. Thx for all the input

I bought a set of injectors off eBay. Now I'm wondering if they are garbage. I bet they are, based on the low cost for a set of 6.

OK, thank you for the feedback. I'll start chipping away at these and keep you posted. *I got it running as good as it ever did again last night by adding back the extra MAF wire loom with additional ground wire. Clean ground goes to the AC bolt close by. Now it runs ok below 2800 rpms, but bogs down above. No more stalling and less black smoke. The o2 sensor and plugs are pretty fouled, so I need to clean or replace again.

Well, s$%#. Put it all back together after adding a new oem fuel pressure regulator and it runs worse than before. Black smoke, weak power and stalls out. I cleaned and added dielectric grease to every connector, checked fuel rail integrity and all looks good. The MAF seems to work because when I pull it off while running, the engine dies. Wiring and connector look good. It had a added wiring harness with a separate ground wire, which I removed. No change. Could it be an exhaust blockage? The brand new O2 sensor is black, which i expected after all the smoke. Plugs all looked black, but dry. Vacuum lines all new. New air filter and I cleaned out the filter box. I don't know. Getting pretty frustrated!

Interesting.. I think it did run worse after that ground was added. OK, great intel, thank you @Slartibartfast. I have the Plenum and Fuel Rail back off now and will install new Fuel Pressure Regulator today. I am going to give the wiring harness a thorough assessment while I have access. MAF is on the other harness, so will check that too. I'll share results later

Yes, timing is spot on 15deg BTDC. I also pulled MAF sensor, cleaned it thoroughly and checked wiring. I ran a fresh ground over the front plenum bolt. No luck. I ran ecu codes and got #35 and #45. Both the coolant temp sensor and fuel injectors are new, so I figured vacuum leak? Gave up chasing it yesterday and pulled the plenum back off. I am going to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator and make 100% SURE all injectors are seated right. She's fighting me, but I'm not giving up yet

I just finished rebuilding the truck and can't get it to run right. Starts up, idles fine, temp and fuel good - but it pukes black smoke and has no power over 2500k rpms. I have chased every possible fix, but no luck... I need help! Here is what I've done: Resurfaced Heads and Valve Job New Head Gaskets New Crank and Camshaft seals New gasket set from Fel Pro all around New Timing belt and tensioner New Water pump New Thermostat New Alternator New Distributor, rotor, wires and plug - all Nissan OEM New PCV and O2 sensor New Vacuum lines throughout EGR works, piping cleaned New fuel and air filters New Coolant Temp switch Cleaned throttle body Fresh Oil and Filter Please share any ideas on how I can get her going. Thank you!

Thank you, @Slartibartfast and @gamellott! I will source those connectors, once I take inventory of what I need. Disassembly is complete as of this AM, taking Heads to the machine shop for pressure test today. No obvious blown gasket, but the PS Head between #3 and #5 smells like burnt oil. I also found a bunch of coolant in #6 which makes no sense to me...need to figure that out. Good news is that all cylinder walls look cherry and only minimal carbon on pistons. She definitely deserves a refresh, I'm happy with what I'm seeing so far. Also, almost no rust anywhere - other than EGR and exhaust manifold heat shield screws - I broke 2 off. I got lower EGR tube nut off after a bottle of penetrating fluid, 60 secs of heating the manifold and sledge hammering a wrench connected to the nut. And 3 beers.

Got the EGR off! Only the top nut, actually, but that was enough to spin the tube away from the plenum and remove it. I'll deal with the lower nut later. *No way I'm getting by without the EGR in CA. I'm down to the block, next up is valve covers and heads. I also need to buy a 27mm socket for that crank bolt. that thing is huge. *My wiring loom and connectors are disintegrating pretty badly...any thoughts on replacement connectors? I can rewire the loom myself, but need all the correct female connectors to get that done. a quick google search didn't help much. Any suggestions appreciated!

Removing the EGR tube will be the hardest part of this job, i can already tell. The connector bolts look rusted solid! Weird, because I don't see rust anywhere else. I need to re-up my PB Blaster supply

Thx All! Ok, I'm going all in on upper end rebuild, just started breakdown yesterday. Got a full gasket set from Fel Pro on the way and already bought Timing Belt kit including water pump, Tensioner and thermostat. *I didn't get to the leak down test before starting the breakdown and think I missed my window... I'll check how cylinders look once i have her opened up. Hoping I can find a machine shop around here to resurface Heads, if needed. I appreciate the input!

I just bought this truck with the intention of bringing it back to life. It has 222,000 miles on it and is mostly original. White smoke coming out the tailpipe led me to a compression test and the results were all over the place. Cylinder number three is at 30 PSI and everything else is above 150. I'm assuming head gasket, which I will start on soon, but does anyone else have any input I should consider? I'm hoping it's not a piston ring or something else in the lower end. Gaskets are cheap and I can probably have the head resurfaced for not too much money. I need to get in there for the timing belt job anyway. I'd love to save this thing, unless someone thinks it's a bad idea? Let me know. Thank you!