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Everything posted by Bozer1991
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The wiper switch is 3 stage - left is on, center (presumably) is Off and right is washer fluid. I'm at center position. I don't have the FSM you're referring to, so I appreciate the wiring suggestions @Slartibartfast. I'll start the wiring chase
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Interesting that the wiper arm needs to be all the way down/home and seated in the bracket before that switch will work. My wiper is definitely not down. I tried jumping the green/white and black wires at the wiper motor plug, but still a no go on the popper.
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OK, I unplugged the rear wiper motor and now the power rearview mirrors work, so that's the problem. I will decide if I am going to hunt down a new motor at the local junkyard. Next problem - the rear/trunk hatch window popper does work, doesn't seem to have power. Is that on another fuse? I don't see one in the fuse box. Wiring all looks OK. Any ideas on that? Thanks
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Sorry - same fuse. It's the 10a, 2 spots from the left. It's labeled as both RR wiper and mirrors. Il pulled the rear hatch molding and all wiring looks OK. I will try drivers side cargo area trim now, thx for that tip. The previous owner definitely messed with the trailer hitch area, so I'll inspect there as well. Thx
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I put a new fuse in and the rear wiper cycled on its own when i turned key on, then fuse blew 5 secs later. The rearview mirrors are on same circuit I just bought more fuses for testing
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1992 SE V6 - My 10A fuse blows 3 seconds after the car turns on. The rear wiper works, goes through one cycle, then fuse pops. Wiring from truck to door looks good. Any ideas on where to start my search are appreciated!
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1992 SE V6 - My 10A fuse blows 3 seconds after the car turns on. The rear wiper works, goes through one cycle, then fuse pops. Wiring from truck to door looks good. Any ideas on where to start my search are appreciated!
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UPDATE - I took the pathy out tonight to find a cliff to drive it off of when after about 20 minutes of smoking out my neighborhood....the smoke cleared! I think there was just residual coolant in the exhaust system that needed to burn off. Otherwise it runs great, drove on freeway, all around town and no issues. Now I need to see if she'll pass CA smog. Thx for those who provided feedback on this chain, I really appreciate. Next up, some cosmetic projects.
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Just got Heads back on. The gaskets look fine, no problems. No sticking or indents, so maybe not torqued enough? A lot of coolant leaked into #6 as I pulled head off, but that was expected with leftover coolant in the DS head. No obvious issues, although I did get a couple of things wrong 1st time around. -The FSM calls for the head bolt washers to be inserted with radius side up. I missed that and they were inconsistent throughout. -I pulled exhaust manifolds all the way off on DS and off the Head on PS before removing heads. This made re-installing heads a lot easier. Maybe the weigh of the manifold affected my torque sequence? I removed and re-installed the Heads with exhaust manifolds attached last time. *I noticed some dust/debris behind timing belt cover on driver side, so need to figure that out. Belt looks fine, so need to investigate further. I'm hoping to have all this back together tonight after work.
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I'm getting a bit burnt out, honestly. A few questions i keep asking myself as I prepare to take this thing apart Again: - Why didn't white smoke start until after I did the injectors to solve black smoke? -Did machine shop botch the head resurfacing? -Are my head bolts stretched and if so, is that the problem? How many beers is this going to take me??
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I didn't keep the originals, unfortunately. The new ones seem to be thin metal encased in a thin rubber coating and the blue rings are barely, if any thicker. I spent 30 minutes wiggling the intake manifold around until it felt perfectly seated and went thru FSM 2 step torque sequence, adding a couple of ft more pressure last night. Will put the rest back together today and see if any improvement. Not looking forward to connecting the coolant hoses in back of the plenum, although I've come up with a technique that helps - I rest the plenum on my forearms, so my hands are in back and able to access hoses and wiring connector under plenum. Once it's all attached, I gently pull them out and lower it down onto manifold. Not comfortable, but easier than anything else I've tried!
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No smoking gun, unfortunately. The intake manifold gasket looks good, basically new. Makes me wonder if factory torque specs are enough? The gasket barely has an impression from Block/Manifold. Maybe I just torque the crap out of it and try this all over again... These gaskets are all uniform surface, where the old ones had more of a built-up rubber ring around the coolant and air ports. Maybe Fel Pro is the wrong call after all? *When I pulled manifold a bunch of coolant spilled into #5, this happens because my driveway is on an incline and #5 and #6 are at the low end. There is also coolant trapped in the heads back there, because of the tilt. Wondering if this, somehow is contributing to my issue? I will spend an hour making sure no remaining coolant is in the cylinders, heads, or anywhere else. I am waiting on new gaskets and when they are here, I'll get it all back together again and see where we are.
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I've checked the hoses thoroughly, so no mixup on coolant/vacuum lines. Yes, I'm referring to the hose from throttle body to IAC and I was unable to find a new replacement, so pulled a junk yard backup. It has 4 bends in it, so tough to replace with an aftermarket hose. F it. Im pulling it apart again to get eyes on the intake manifold gasket.
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I replaced the intake manifold gaskets. Maybe they aren't sealing right. Ill have to take it apart again to find out. I guess it could be a crack in the block, but I seriously doubt it. Possible that a bunch of coolant is in the exhaust system and that is causing all the white smoke? I am getting a coolant leak where the small hose comes out of rear drivers side of plenum right next to PCV. I have cranked down on hose clamp, but it's breaking through. Thx for the input. Good news is I have mastered the #6 plug removal and install. I can swap that thing in/out by feel in 5 mins!
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Somehow coolant is getting in the system. I've run it for about an hour and the white smoke is thick, no change. It runs well otherwise, temp is good. Im confused.. how could a coolant leak start after pulling the plenum only? I did find a coolant leak out of the host that runs from the throttle body back to to the inlet to the right of the PCV. What s that?
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Well, the black smoke is gone. But, it was replaced by white smoke! Tons of it. There is no way I have a blown head gasket. Resurfaced heads from machine shop, new gaskets, everything torqued to spec (oem torque sequence followed, etc..). WTF. This truck is cursed. I'll do a compression test tomorrow. Unbelievable.
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I bought a new set of reman'd injectors, best I could find online. Much more expensive, but worth it at this point. They arrive tomorrow and ill install asap. The MAF ground wire repair only got me marginally better. Still runs poorly. Im leaning in to this faulty injector theory. I hope it works, I'm out of options! Will report tomorrow. Thx for all the input