Pepo1

RR50 Terrano. My belt's squeal has gotten progressively worse and belt needs replacing. Is it just a matter of loosening the alternator bolts swinging the alternator inward and replacing the belt? There's so much clutter in the engine bay, I can't see the lower bolt(s). I'm assuming there's just one bolt down there. Looks like a mission to get a socket on there, let alone swing a handle. Hopefully I don't have to remove much to get to it. I accept that I probably will though:-)

Gah, I keep responding to my own comments instead of the poster's comments! I just watched a mechanic replacing a CV axle on an R50 and he was saying you need to support the lower control arm to stop the hub falling while removing the lower strut bolts. Around the 4 minute mark in the video below.

I just watched a mechanic replacing a CV axle on an R50 and he was saying you need to support the lower control arm to stop the hub falling while removing the lower strut bolts.

And yes, you are correct, it does have the three modes Auto, 2WD and Lock with H/N/4Lo on the transfer lever. You have to perform gymnastics with the system to avoid graunching something.

It was just a yearly Warrant of Fitness check. Apparently you can't have any fluid weeping out of a strut, which I understand I guess. It wasn't dripping or oozing, the strut just had some damp oil-stained dirt on it. He wasn't going to pass the vehicle unless it was replaced. I protested, as you do, but need the car for work so just told him to go ahead and replace it.

I see. Yes, it's a full strut. I drive it in partial 4WD (setting named "auto", designed to kick the car into 4WD when it encounters slippery etc terrain. OK, so there a possibility the mechanic took the strut off the knuckle and it fully extended, potentially damaging the CV. My plan is to take it to another mechanic to replace the CV and, in the process, check if the old CV had gradually worn leading to ultimate coincidental failure (which is the mechanic's view), or whether any damage is from a more direct or sudden impact consistent with what you've described Thanks for your patience and help by the way.

It's the outer CV joint. Yeah, I thought if I took it out of "Auto" (a sort of partial 4WD) which I usually keep it at, then it wouldn't impact the CV and at least I could drive it around. But I think the damage is already done now with the joint now completely separated. This R50 has a shock that looks like below. I might be wrong, but I think you do have to release the spindle/hub to install it.

The CV joint has now completely separated.

Of course I read it and have taken your points on board and will discuss with the mechanic. I haven't decided anything other than that. Your answer was basically "I don't know, but here's what I think". After I posted this question, I looked online to find other information and found that others had had similar problems to what you'd described. Of course I'm not going to just blame him. In answer to your questions: No mods to front suspension No noticeable higher lift

Thanks, I've seen other forum posts where that exact thing has happened. Taking it up with the mechanic.

Took my 97 Nissan Terrano QD32 for its Warrant Of Fitness (I'm in New Zealand). Mechanic said I needed a new LF shock as the old one was weeping fluid. On completion of the job, I drove it home and noticed a clunking noise. I naturally thought the mechanics didn't tighten up a bolt or something. So, I took it back and told them it was making a noise like the clunk when a CV joint goes. This was a major car jerking clunk mainly during a turn. Wouldn't you know it, the mechanic tells me the left front CV joint has gone. I thought this was way too coincidental especially as I had no prior indication whatsoever - no ticks, clinks and definitely no clunks. I asked him if he had to do any disassembly that could have impacted the CV joint and he said no, just a few simply bolts to remove the old shock. So my question is: Is there any way a CV joint can be damaged during the replacement of a shock absorber?

Ah ok, forgot to share correctly. Try now. https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano-reverse-cam/SpyJ5NRjWNoazLnMjfWKavek

See link for photos Wires and RCA fittings in the channel are currently wrapped in insulation tape. Probably change to a split loom in future to make it a bit prettier. https://www.playbook.com/terrano-reverse-cam

I eventually went ahead and ran the wires from the engine bay up the A pillar through some rubber floor conduit I found on Temu. It's self-adhesive and stuck to the moulding next to the windshield. After a couple of months out in the weather, it is showing no signs of unsticking. I bought another length as backup in case it does eventually fail. See photos https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano/3TskQwfgDCu7Hbm5CNnk5ePz

I ran the wires from the engine bay up the A pillar through some rubber floor conduit I found on Temu. It's self adhesive conduit stuck to the windshield surrounds on my Terrano. Will probably stick well to the glass itself. After a couple of months out in the weather, it is showing no signs of unsticking. I bought another length as backup in case it does eventually fail. See photos https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano/3TskQwfgDCu7Hbm5CNnk5ePz Temu conduit: https://www.temu.com/goods.html?goods_id=601099569483851

I went ahead with a solution: Sent wires from the front of the car through the LHS taillight wiring grommet, then out of a crack at the top of the taillights, only visible when you open the rear door. From there, up and around the rear door channel, exiting just below the center of the spoiler. No issues, except I had to cut the wires from the camera as neither the camera nor the RCA fittings wouldn't fit through the gap at the top of the rear door. This turned into a bit of a pain as there are three very thin wires I had to re-solder. Amazingly the door still closed with two RCA fittings laying in the channel. I use slimline adhesive wire clips to keep the wiring firm and stationary in the channel. Haven't mounted the camera and it's just dangling at the top, but plan to use some special thick double-sided tape for now as this has worked well for me in the past. Not a single hole drilled and an acceptable outcome. Double-sided tape: https://www.temu.com/goods.html?goods_id=601099523973105 Slimline wire clips: https://www.temu.com/goods.html?goods_id=601099527134751 I'll share some photos when it's all mounted.

My 97 Terrano doesn't have many ready-made locations to install a reverse cam and I would prefer not to drill into the steel around the license plate. I realise there are license plate mounting kits and all, but I have been thinking that mounting it on the underside of the spoiler might be a good option. Looking for tips or maybe someone has wired something into their spoiler and eventually down into the vehicle.

Thanks, and where would I spray the Boeshield?

It seems the central locking only works from the driver's door, and it does the same thing when manually switching. I think it's a short as I tried it again this morning and it didn't do it. Maybe just some moisture got in there somewhere.

I haven't tried it with just the door panel switch. I just know it does it with the key at this stage.

After locking the vehicle, it unlocks itself (all doors) within a short period of time. If I leave it, it starts randomly locking and unlocking repetitively. I'm currently leaving it unlocked everywhere I go and need to sort it out. Any ideas or suggestion appreciated. Vehicle does not use a key fob, just a key.

I want to install two 20" light bars on either side of my 97 Terrano/Pathfinder for convenience lighting while camping. I don't want to drill holes in the roof or a pillar, so I was thinking of just running the wires down the side of the windscreen into the engine bay and using a length of cheap rubber floor wire concealer from Temu to hide them, e.g. https://www.temu.com/goods.html?goods_id=601099569483851 I know there is a proper product for that but it costs a bomb. Before I go ahead, I was wondering if the existing moulding that runs down the edge of the windscreen against the A pillar is removeable and wires possibly hidden beneath it (see yellow highlight in attached photo). It seems as if it could be pried off. Cheers!