Pepo1

RR50 Terrano. My belt's squeal has gotten progressively worse and belt needs replacing. Is it just a matter of loosening the alternator bolts swinging the alternator inward and replacing the belt? There's so much clutter in the engine bay, I can't see the lower bolt(s). I'm assuming there's just one bolt down there. Looks like a mission to get a socket on there, let alone swing a handle. Hopefully I don't have to remove much to get to it. I accept that I probably will though:-)

Gah, I keep responding to my own comments instead of the poster's comments! I just watched a mechanic replacing a CV axle on an R50 and he was saying you need to support the lower control arm to stop the hub falling while removing the lower strut bolts. Around the 4 minute mark in the video below.

I just watched a mechanic replacing a CV axle on an R50 and he was saying you need to support the lower control arm to stop the hub falling while removing the lower strut bolts.

And yes, you are correct, it does have the three modes Auto, 2WD and Lock with H/N/4Lo on the transfer lever. You have to perform gymnastics with the system to avoid graunching something.

It was just a yearly Warrant of Fitness check. Apparently you can't have any fluid weeping out of a strut, which I understand I guess. It wasn't dripping or oozing, the strut just had some damp oil-stained dirt on it. He wasn't going to pass the vehicle unless it was replaced. I protested, as you do, but need the car for work so just told him to go ahead and replace it.

I see. Yes, it's a full strut. I drive it in partial 4WD (setting named "auto", designed to kick the car into 4WD when it encounters slippery etc terrain. OK, so there a possibility the mechanic took the strut off the knuckle and it fully extended, potentially damaging the CV. My plan is to take it to another mechanic to replace the CV and, in the process, check if the old CV had gradually worn leading to ultimate coincidental failure (which is the mechanic's view), or whether any damage is from a more direct or sudden impact consistent with what you've described Thanks for your patience and help by the way.

It's the outer CV joint. Yeah, I thought if I took it out of "Auto" (a sort of partial 4WD) which I usually keep it at, then it wouldn't impact the CV and at least I could drive it around. But I think the damage is already done now with the joint now completely separated. This R50 has a shock that looks like below. I might be wrong, but I think you do have to release the spindle/hub to install it.

The CV joint has now completely separated.

Of course I read it and have taken your points on board and will discuss with the mechanic. I haven't decided anything other than that. Your answer was basically "I don't know, but here's what I think". After I posted this question, I looked online to find other information and found that others had had similar problems to what you'd described. Of course I'm not going to just blame him. In answer to your questions: No mods to front suspension No noticeable higher lift

Thanks, I've seen other forum posts where that exact thing has happened. Taking it up with the mechanic.

Took my 97 Nissan Terrano QD32 for its Warrant Of Fitness (I'm in New Zealand). Mechanic said I needed a new LF shock as the old one was weeping fluid. On completion of the job, I drove it home and noticed a clunking noise. I naturally thought the mechanics didn't tighten up a bolt or something. So, I took it back and told them it was making a noise like the clunk when a CV joint goes. This was a major car jerking clunk mainly during a turn. Wouldn't you know it, the mechanic tells me the left front CV joint has gone. I thought this was way too coincidental especially as I had no prior indication whatsoever - no ticks, clinks and definitely no clunks. I asked him if he had to do any disassembly that could have impacted the CV joint and he said no, just a few simply bolts to remove the old shock. So my question is: Is there any way a CV joint can be damaged during the replacement of a shock absorber?

Ah ok, forgot to share correctly. Try now. https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano-reverse-cam/SpyJ5NRjWNoazLnMjfWKavek

See link for photos Wires and RCA fittings in the channel are currently wrapped in insulation tape. Probably change to a split loom in future to make it a bit prettier. https://www.playbook.com/terrano-reverse-cam

I eventually went ahead and ran the wires from the engine bay up the A pillar through some rubber floor conduit I found on Temu. It's self-adhesive and stuck to the moulding next to the windshield. After a couple of months out in the weather, it is showing no signs of unsticking. I bought another length as backup in case it does eventually fail. See photos https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano/3TskQwfgDCu7Hbm5CNnk5ePz

I ran the wires from the engine bay up the A pillar through some rubber floor conduit I found on Temu. It's self adhesive conduit stuck to the windshield surrounds on my Terrano. Will probably stick well to the glass itself. After a couple of months out in the weather, it is showing no signs of unsticking. I bought another length as backup in case it does eventually fail. See photos https://www.playbook.com/s/terrano/3TskQwfgDCu7Hbm5CNnk5ePz Temu conduit: https://www.temu.com/goods.html?goods_id=601099569483851