Riddles

Cant say for the nissan's but for jeep they wer week.

How do I send $ the ol way (mail) for a winsield banner?

I have been restoring old school hot rods and biulding old jeeps for about 15 years and after the first few builds I always could see rust in the frame but the outside looked grate lol after snaping a custom jeep frame!! I had to figure out away to protect the inside as well as the out side, so I took whats called a Shoots gun (they can be had for about $15 ) they are for spraying undercoat and bed liner etc.. the thick @!*%e. well take 12' of copper line that fits over the shoots gun nozzle and hose clamp or silver solder it on wichever works for you, copper is easy to bend without kinking easy anyways crimp the end (opposite the gun) and drill about 10 holes 1/8th bit, criss cross what you have now is a rod that can be fed down the frame from any hole in all directions, it will spray everywere and in every direction making a huge mess wich is what you want inside your frame. I got a Gal of POR15 and a Gal of PRO FORM wax based rust kill/cover protector (good stuff) it is easy to shoot and soaks in well, it is also black when dry and, hard as nails so even when it comes outta every nook and cranny in the frame and drips on the POR15 it wont show cuz there both black. I will take some Video and post a link to you tube so you can see. I am also painting my bumpers, bush gard and tire rack with Gloss Black so I will top coat the hole underside with Omni as well. I am not just doing the frame I am doing the hole underside and rear diff. Might as well I got 12 gal of auto paint lol I just dont wanna replace a fram on this thing.

Cheers! Thanks Simon

Yah I made a really long wand years ago with 1/8 th holes drilled criss cross that hooks up to my Shoots gun, the end is blocked off so it sprays everywere and can be slid into any opening on the frame, I just woundered if there is a better product out there then POR15 like a 2 part epoxy. Its been almost 3 years since I have had to buy paint. I scored 40 gal a good wile back from a custom shop that went under but have run out. Cheers

I see the major weekness of the PF is RUST, as of now there is no rust on mine but I can see undercoat falling off and leaving the metal bare, I used to use a paint called POR- 15, on all my biulds. @$200 a gal its not cheap but then you'll never have to worry. What is everyone painting theres with. Just thought there might be a better epoxy paint on the market now?

I have been out a few times now and am pretty dam impressed with the PF, I was going to lift it but am on the fence about doing much lifting! As of now it is stock hight with new springs and new crapy shocks with 31x10.5's I tryed to get it stuck in 2 wheel drive lol but it just kept going (need to find deeper mud) it handles logs and some fairly ruff stuff without any problem.So how many of you are running some nasty @!*% with a stock hight rig? I am thinking a set of Rancho 9000's and a 2-3 inch body lift is about all I am going to need. This PF is are primary road vehical so i don't atempt to see just how twisted etc... it'll get but i can do any trail for the most part around here.

I talked to a buddy just now that has owned a few PF and he said his auto trans did the same thing and it was a rad problem (antifreez in the Trans fluid)WTF ?? but he fixed it in time to save the trans.

To rebiuld a manual trans on most vehicles is a pretty easy task. Main thing is to check a trans brackdown (parts exsploded view)etc.. to see if there are any tools you might not own. I have re-biult alot of domestic trannys over the years and dummy shafts are cheap to have made at a Machine shop. If you not good with a set of wrenches your at the rong end of shop rates.

Well ended up finding a 1990 Jeep XJ runing in grate shape for 150 so couldn't pass it up. after 2g it'll be able to brake any trail and about 200 hours of fabbin etc.. wich will leave alot to put into the PF as well.

Need something I can weld an Exo, on and if there is alot of rust it makes it hard. I am thinking the PF will get its lift and locker but will be played with easyer then what I want. I am going to do anuther M38 or CJ5. I just don't think the PF will hole up to how I play. Keep it for light wheelin.

Its On Vancouver island BC Canada. As for rust I have a grate welder as well as most of my biulds have been 50's hot rods so replaceing a panel is no biggy. There is a bunch for 2g and under. How about the front end is it a solid or CV shafts on that year? I no nothing about the imports I meen I can read a manual and re-biuld a motor But I am thankful for all the info on this site like things (tricks) to do and what to look out for Cheers

I am looking at this rig for a bush basher. They are askin $1500 obo I am thinkin 900 do these hold up? I have read up on the year and most says there tuff ???