TruBlu
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Posts posted by TruBlu
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how much you want for the panties?
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checked the MAF and o2?
Belt stretch? I had that happen to me. The new belt stretched over the course of a couple of days and the timing was so far up @!*% creek it wasn't funny.
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Well, my rig is an Automatic but it kicks down WAY before I hit WOT
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I would be weary about using a lightweight flywheel. VG33 needs all the help it can get with momentum at low engine speeds. You may find the Pathy a sluggish old toad when trying to climb hills....even with the charger on top. I've ran into that issue before.
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I know this is a little late but you can safely crank the boost up via the wastgate actuator. You will need to increase your fuel supply rate though by using a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure regulator that fed from your BOV/BPV. This will take diesel that would normally be returned to the tank and reroute it back to the engine to cope with the extra air be pumped into the engine.
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I don't know if any of you guys have noticed yet but if you go to there main page you can actually download Nissan FAST...I'm doing it right now.
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Why is there a Wide Open Throttle switch mounted above my gas pedal? What does it do or not do?
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I have the same problem. My e-brake feels like it's not attached. What tools do I need to fix this? (What does PB it mean in the quote above?)
PB = PBlaster = A brand of Penetrating Lubricant to loosen rusted parts.....No Pathfinder owner should be without it.....Shake can, spray can, remove bolt.
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As far as i know you people get our great race over there FORD verses HOLDEN ( GM )
http://www.v8supercar.com.au/GO FORD
We all know that Holden dominates the V8 supers
(Ex-Pat Aussie...Tasmania. Any jokes and I will hunt you down
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Here is a transmission cocktail for your pathy.....If it doesn't fix half if not all of your issues then I'll eat my hat.
I had issues with my old WRXs transmission. I used this cocktail and she was just like brand new. The same cocktail is my wifes car and my buddies jeep. All have noticed an increase in transmission performance.
*1qt Redline lightweight shockproof
*1qt Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh
*2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90.
Fill the rest of the transmission using regular 80-90 or 75-90 which you choose. But try to not add anymore synthetics in there.
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burp?
Whilst possible it should've worked it way well out of the system the first time the truck got hot.
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I don't think manual or auto makes any difference. Just use the manual kit.
Manual or auto does matter. The shifter linkages need to be eiter extended or modified to continue to work properly.
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Here is a question....when you took the cap....how much pressure was there behind the cap? If a cap stops holding pressure then boiling point of the coolant rises making the engine run hotter. We had a constant issue of my wifes car running hot. I cracked the cap to see what condition the coolant was in (we had just bought it) and the cap didn't hiss or spit at me. I replaced the cap and running hot issue was solved.
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Dammit.... Did you check the ECU Codes?
Maybe I did have to much Pepper....
No codes but tomorrow I'm going to pick up a new flasher can and a spool of wire. It's just going to be easier to wire an entire new circuit then try to fault find it.
2hours for a brand new fully functioning circuit vs. 115hours of fault finding to repair a 13yo old circuit....I know which way I'm going. LOL
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lets see....
sunroof
leather
fold down rear seat armrests
electronic shocks
heated seats
alarm system
dual illuminated visors
driving lamps
chrome package
LSD
factory optioned 31s
tire carrier
ABS
spoiler
roof rack
4 wheel disc
heateed mirrors
step rails
keyless entry
I think thats everything.
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Ok, alt checked out fine....I'm just going to grab a new flaasher can and a spool of wire and create a new flasher circuit. I've already wasted too much time on it.
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Alright, I will check it when I get to work today.....I honestly don't think it is the alternator but hey, I hope you guys can make me eat my hat! I would much rather spend 50-100 and 15 minutes replalcing an alternator then 25 man hours looking for a short. LOL
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So why didn't my batt light come on? I will check the alternator for charging voltage tomorrow.
Forgot to mention, everything else fully functions including my hazards.
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Well I've put well over an hours driving into it since this has happened so I either I have one helluva battery or it's another issue LOL
Vodka....yum..
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Ok, so I've had the beater Pathy for a few days now and I was driving it through the rain the other day and when I put on my turn signals my A/T Fluid Temp light/buzzer and "Brake" light came on instead. Now that I "think" it's dried out it's still doing it.
Is this a common occurence with these? I have a multimeter and I'm very capable of using it but if someone could give me a kick start as to where to point it that would be awesome! I'm guessing engine bay because the issue started when it was raining but I know that can also mean nothing LOL
1994
4x4
SE
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and to think I had a heart attack when I got charged $27 for FOUR plugs on my Subaru.
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^^^ZOINK, never thought of that! LOL
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lol, yes guys, I do know how to check for rust and yes there is serious rust in all those places that you mentioned!......I knew about them going into the purchase. It was my bargaining chip. Thats how I got the truck down to $350. Remember it is an SE with all the bells and whistles...I haven't found an option yet that this truck doesn't have and on top of that, they all work.
I just got out from spending several hours underneath the truck wwelding up the frame with 1/4" steel. Yes, I'm fully aware that 1/4" is overkill but I had it laying around. Although it was in bad shape on one side and the other side was getting closer to it...I've fully welded it all up including a T'piece to get the suspension mount welded back to the frame. I would almost swear that the rear end is now stronger then stock!
My next step is to weld up the bullbar.
similar to this (yes, I've made plenty of these as well (Australians have to learn how to weld bullbars with their eyes cloosed LOL)
I must get some photos up of the truck for you folks!
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m4k, I kind of figured that the entire exhaust system will just be junk. Thats why I'm picking up to magnaflows today and some lengths of 2.5" stainless steel piping and a good buddy of mine has a box full of mandrel bends.
so far...
$350 for truck
$61.10 for fuel filter, air filter, plugs, rotor cap, dizzy cap and an oil change.
I'm VERY happy with that.
School me: Brake Pads
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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All my road and track vehicles use Ceramics. I love them. I hit the anchors and I stop...because they stay cooler then a conventional pad there is less brake fade. The offset is the noise but I don't mind paying for that.
Cheap pads are a good way to go....Here is the reason behind that.
Cheap pads are a softer compound typically. So they don't lasst as long but since they are a softer compound they grip REALY well....you just replalce them sooner but I mean @!*%...whats $150 every 3 years? Besides...in three years you won't need to replace the rear pads anyway.