pbdm4k
-
Posts
46 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by pbdm4k
-
-
Overall, would you say it's a pretty easy job though (if it's not spot welded that is!)?
Mine was rusted on and couldn't be removed. I ended up replacing that whole section of pipe.
-
In a nutshell, my brother was driving the pathy in the snow on Friday night and got cut off. He slammed on the brakes and the back slid out, sending him sideways into a lamp post.
Front driver side wheel was ripped off the rim and front alignment was like a "Y" after we put the spare tire on. The front suspension has also "bottomed" out, one side is slightly higher than the other.
Fender is mashed in and hood is bent up.
I'd take pics but the pathy is at a shop right now so I'd have to get pictures later.
What I'd like to be hopeful about though, is it possible for the torsion beams to just drop like that? And can it be cranked back up?
I'm trying to be optimistic that the front can be cranked back up and that an alignment can be done to the front wheel to at least make it decently driveable again...
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Oh, it's SL lifted on a Calmini 3" Kit.
-
That's a bummer man,
that's the one and only thing that will take down my pathy someday, rust. 
You and everyone else where they use salt on the roads. o.O
Had to box my frame and sadly, not a lot of welders here who know what they're doing, so it cost me $700 to have my frame reinforced.
-
Might get out the PB Blaster, crawl under the truck and spray the linkage and shifter pivots really well. Let that sit a while, soak it again then try to move the shifter. The pivot might just be froze from lack of use.
My 95 is like that too. It takes two hands to pull the lever into 4wd, and takes my foot to kick it back up into 2wd.
My uncle had the Pathy sitting for years before he gave it to me. I guess he never put it in 4wd.
-
You should try those lenses and perhaps get an HID retrofit kit?
-
Thanks for the info guys. That was the exact grill guard I was looking at.
The seller also confirmed that it would not fit.
Looks like I'll have to hunt for other options... Not a big fan of the pre runner bars.
-
You could get the pre-runner bar from 4x4parts.com if you just want something to mount lights to.
Not sure I like the look of the prerunner bar... any pics of what it looks like on the truck?
-
Yeah, I saw it too, its a RAM Accessories one, seems the guy has some overstock back from when they did make these brush guards.
The shipping kills the deal though.
I just want a light bar or grill guard.
-
Hi,
Was looking around at some Grill guards, and I was wondering if the mounting points for a 1987-1992 grill guard was different from the 94-95 models.
The one I'm looking at says its only for a 1987-1992 Pathy, or 86.5-92 hardbody... can this fit (plug an play) on my 95? Or will some drilling and fabrication be required to make it fit?
Thanks
-
Try having 4 Pathfinders and a 300ZX.... oops almost forgot the Wife, 4 kids, a son-in-law(hes yours free), and the grandson....
Can the son in law mow lawns and wash cars?
But case in point... can't always afford to buy the best parts for our cars, there's sometimes something else taking priority...
Alas, settle for the pacesetter. Whatever, it may take a little elbow grease to make it fit properly, but it saves me $200.
-
My vote is simple.... Thorleys are definately better.... but I got a set of pacesetters at less than half the price of the thorleys. Many other things on a 12 year old truck to spend the dollars on.
Agreed, I'll settle for the pacesetters, and when they come in, i'll sand them down, spray them in dupont high temp ceramic, and if need be, i'll dremel the quarter sized hole to make it right.
200 more for Thorleys is not a price I'm willing to pay on a truck this old. Especially when I have 2 other vehicles that fight for the attention of my wallet...
-
Being as the fill plug is on the side, I think you'd better tip it to one side instead of just up.
Doesn't over filling the transmission cause problems?
Is it ok to use Redline D4 ATF for the auto tranny, and Redline 75w90 for the diff?
-
Gone down that road too and it is a VERY expensive road. Base price of the oil + international shipping + about 30% duty = mega expensive.
Can't I just use any API GL-5 oil in both diffs? Anybody have any idea of how much oil each diff holds? For some reason the owners manual just shows dashes for the oil capacity.
If you are located in Canada, I can get you Redline at a reasonable price.
-
YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT!!!
Have you any idea what that s*%@#t will do to the oil passages throughout the block? Trust me,like some of the others said already. Just clean your engine real good(degreaser), run it a little bit and start looking for the leak. I betcha you will find its a valve cover or sending unit causing the problem. If u start adding a bunch of crap to your engine(additives,etc.) you will regret it later, I promise!Duely noted. I'll keep the stop leak crap out of the engine. I'll leave the 10w30 for now and let it drip.
-
Well sometimes the engineers are wrong. As strange as that sounds. My father has a 1984 Volvo 240 series Diesel that states in the book that you should use 15W-40 conventional oil. I read a big article on that car with the diesel engine that said the engines did not last long if you used what Volvo recommended but lasts hundreds of thousands of miles if you used a 5W-30 synthetic oil, which is what my dad uses. Actually he uses the 5W-30 diesel formula from Amsoil. On Amsoil's website and on mobil's website, they also recommend a 5W-30 and not a 15W-40.
I'm not saying that engineers don't know what they are talking about but in this case, it was clear that they were wrong by specifying 15W-40 for that car. My dad has around 140k on the Volvo and the engine runs fine. The suspension on the other hand....
Now, in my case I use 5W-30 since the book does say to use it. I may try the 5W-20 but I am more interesting in trying motorsilk first.
Well, for the record, when I first picked up my truck, there were no oil leaks.
But after I removed the oil filter and replaced with Castrol Syntec 5w30, it started leaking like no tomorrow.
I recently flushed the oil again (the colour was not pretty at all), and with a new filter, added Bardhal D1, and Engine Restorer mixed in with Castrol GTX 10w30.
Well, its still leaking a tad bit, but not as much as before... I guess the thicker oil helps.
-
I put in 10w30 Castrol GTX. Still looks like its leaking. However the leak is a lot slower now.
Should I just throw in a bottle of Stop Leak on the next oil change?
Would I have to use that Stop Leak stuff everytime I change the oil?
-
Thanks for the advice everyone... Even though it maybe a little pricey I think I'm gonna go for it and hook it up with zerk fittings...
pics soon to come
Please let us know how the installation goes (especially the Zerk fitting part), I'm still a bit green when it comes to Pathfinders, but I'm looking to order the Calmini setup by the end of the month.
-
Hey guys and gals, Ive got plenty of offroad adventures waiting for me here in Issimmippi! I used to go all the time with friends who had 4x4s and I believe there is a lotta places I can make it with Aridssa(my pathys name),if she was a bit taller. Has anyone installed a 3" body lift on a 2WD? Is it pretty much the same as a 4WD or any special needs? Or should I just leave Aridssa alone and keep my but on pavement?
Any input,comments,suggestion are needed and appreciated!Gonna have to vote No on this one... I think you'd be better off with a 3" suspension lift for clearance rather then a 3" BL.
-
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!111!!!
Replaced plugs (pics to come, trust me, they are hilarious)
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced rotor cap and dizzy cap
Replaced air filter
Now the truck runs like a champ...just need to fix the exhaust leak!
Be wary of the exhaust... my Pathy came with a newish cat back... but the cat had a crack in the flange... the removal of the cat to install a magnaflow replacement ended up as a nightmare... removing the cat broke the midpipe, which ended up being replaced by a Bosal mid pipe... which also resulted in the requirement of a new o2 sensor... and the replacement of the midpipe ended up with a leaky Y pipe.. unless it was already leaky...
which will end up with the replacement of the headers and Y pipe with a Pacesetter piece...
so... much... rust...
-
I did most of mine about a year ago, but I can't remember. I know they aren't double flanged and I ended up using the same fittings over again as the fittings weren't in to bad a shape, the main lines anyway.
Did you bend your own lines? Is it hard to do? I'm contemplating doing this myself, but it would also be the first time I tackle any job like this.
-
BUT, I have the "anti-lock" light on. I searched and found little on the subject. But nothing worth talking about. Anyone want to tell me if there is a procedure to diagnose or get codes or anything.
Where are the wheel sensors? I saw the procedure to get codes from the ecu, but that didn't have any abs codes. Fluid was topped off when the rear cylinders were done and bled.
From my understanding there is only one sensor for ABS in the rear.
I get my ABS light coming on every now and then...
I'm still newbie to the Pathfinder game, so hopefully someone else can shed a little more light on this.
-
Most car parts stores will sell such kits or some will even bend/flare your lines for you if you bring them dimensions.
Any idea what size/type of fittings our pathfinders use?
-
I heard there was a kit or something where you can bend your own hard brake lines?
Any idea where I might find this stuff?
-
Yep. And you'll soon learn why. "Caveat emptor" and "you get what you pay for" both come to mind.
What's wrong with the pacesetters?
Do they rust like all hell?
It's already ordered so I think its too late for a refund...
Perhaps I could just coat them in Dupont high temp ceramic paint?
I wonder-Would a 300ZX TT motor fit in my '95 SE?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
have you considered maybe an SR20DET? It'd still get you that 250-300hp if that's your liking. And its a 4 banger turbo so it probably has a much higher chance of fitting than the VG30TT would.