[ball joint weekend]

Sadly, cutting doesnt help with installation

[ball joint weekend]

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but its relevant-

What do you do if the balljoint stud just spins when trying to tighten/loosen?  On other cars, I see people jack up on the control arm, but that wont work here.  Jack up on the brake?  prybar between the balljoint and CV? 

I have one side that spins when trying to tighten, and one side broke loose from loosening the nut (at least I can sawzall that)

[Getting an R50- What am I getting into?]

3 hours ago, RainGoat said:

Looks nice! All of that sounds pretty doable.

 

I haven’t done mine but it’s recommended to get CVs with a lifetime warranty, then you don’t have to worry too much. From my notes

“People with good results with NAPA Maxdrive, made by A1 Cardona, limited lifetime warranty. NAPA is good about replacing them. $72 each if you reserve the axles online”

 

Plenty of thread info on the ball joints.

 

Struts/shocks/springs will depend on if you lift or not. KYB has a good reputation for struts but get the Nissan OEM strut bearing - pay close attention to the threads regarding mounting & the presence or absence of a spacer (just reuse the OEM top hat if you can.

 

If you’re going to lift, look up the LR springs for the rear & most use Bilstein 5100s. Snd spring lift, don’t spacer lift if you can avoid itv(spacers should be Max 2”, 1” better & none preferable).

 

You’ve come to the right place. Just search the threads on each topic. Beware the NPORA FB page, it’s the Wild West, essentially unrelated to the forum & advice there far less considered.

 

Bumpers are limited to ARB Sahara Bar & Coastal Offroad. I have latter on my truck now @RainG0at on IG) but will likely switch out to a hybrid Pines to Spines Offroad (@PinesToSpines) when they become available (their design/engineering is currently the best in aftermarket R50 but, consequently, sliw to market).

 

Thanks for the reply!  Most likely wont be lifting this one- not a lot of off roading around the northeast that stock height wont do.  Although the rear springs have some sag.  Her J-word is the weekend toy, and this will be a reliable, capable daily.  Although I may drag it out to Moab sometime (wish it was an auto for that so I could tow my less reliable AMC)

What happens with the aftermarket strut tops?  

Heres a few more photos I couldnt post through work-

 

 

 

One of the AC lines broke and was removed- I need to reinstall it and recharge the system

 

 

 

I think the current tires are a bit undersized (235/60r16s).  Found some 255/70r16s to replce them!

[Getting an R50- What am I getting into?]

Timing belt was done 3k ago (Seller is her brother, luckily!). 

I didnt think to check the valve cover- Hopefully thats all it is then

 

[Getting an R50- What am I getting into?]

I am looking at a 1997 Pathfinder for a friend of mine.  its an SE, 4x4 with a 5-speed.  210k from california, so no northeast rust (Nor the strut tower issue- I used a hammer all over it to check).  It currently needs:
-Balljoints
-Rear shocks

-struts

-swaybar endlinks all around

-CV axles

-washer motors (its salty here)

-a seat

-front bumper

-maybe tierods

 

From searching, nothing seems to be that bad.  But I also noticed the front diff leaking where the passenger CV bolts on.  Should I be worried there?

Otherwise-

-Can I use the seat from any (non-power) R50, or only pre-facelift?
-I checked the rear control arms, front and rear.  How much twist is too much?  The bushings were done in 2014, about 70k ago. 
-Any preferred brand for stock-replacemet struts here?

 

Ill post some pics later! Sorry for the long post.