[Rough idle after warmed up]

I realize this question is roughly 7 years old now, but for anybody with a VG33E combing through this thread after experiencing similar issues - start by making sure there are no vacuum leaks, then you'll most likely need to move on to the TPS (throttle position sensor). If the rough idle is intermittent or only after high idle from a cold start, chances are you need to adjust the TPS or replace & adjust TPS. Here is a good instructional I found while trying to remedy my intermittent rough idle... 

https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan/3.3L/how-to-test-the-idle-switch-1

[Introduction]

Bought a '97 R50 Pathfinder because I needed a cheap beater to fill in a vehicle gap for a few weeks and it was the cheapest with a running engine at $700 CAD. After acquiring the vehicle I began to research it and was happily surprised in learning about the durability and capability of the truck which, along with availability of [relatively] low cost parts, inspired me to sink some money into it rather than drive it into the grave. Roughly one month $6,000 later, and I only slightly regret my decision in that I may have been better off starting out with a slightly better example. However, after completing the list below, I am finally at an impasse which can not be resolved with a YT video or my trusted "call a friend (mechanic)" lifeline and thus my search for info on the world wide web has landed me on this forum. So here I am; trying to figure out how to lower my subframe, so I can remove my oil pan, so I can replace the pump attached to it. Thanks in advance for all the experience and information shared, it's sincerely appreciated.

-- in order:
change oil/filter
change air filter
replace drive belt, A/C belt, p/s belt
replace front brake pads
service frozen piston, driver's caliper
clean & paint calipers
service and paint rear brakes
bleed brake system
sandblast and paint rims
replace lug stud
new tires (Kumho AT51)
replace inner & outer bearings+races, front hubs
MacGyver-tempfix to stop rust spot above windshield leaking water
pull, clean & solder gauge cluster to recover speedo + tach (tach is still twitchy - lose/frayed wire?)
replace CV axles (half shafts)
replace front struts 
replace front stabilizer links
replace front stabilizer bushings
sand and paint front stabilizer
replace rear lower trailing arm bushings
replace rear upper trailing arms
replace rear stabilizer links
replace rear stabilizer bushings
sand & paint rear stabilizer
replace rear coil springs
repair bumper stops
replace shock tubes
replace panhard bar
remove rust, sand, acid primer and paint all remaining components & exposed frame + strategically placed rock guard
MacGyver-tempfix large rust hole in driver's rear fender using 4L plastic jug + JB weld + rock guard (solid w/ no leaks yet)
service, clean & paint rear diff (small piece of bearing found, replace soon)
service transfer case (a bit noisy but not too bad, replace soon)
service transmission with Lucas treatment (light slippage in R/1st/2nd)
service front diff
replace timing belt
replace oil pump seal
replace cam seals
*oil pump gasket blew 60km later on first highway trip, thought I had f'ed up a seal *
-- while waiting for new pump:
clean intake plenum & lower manifold ports
check & clean spark plugs
replace fuel rail feed/return hoses
clean injectors
clean valve train + flush oil drain lines w/ air
clean header intake ports
vacuum cylinders 
replace valve cover gaskets 
replace intake & plenum gaskets 
replace water pump
replace thermostat
-- removed front diff & stabilizer bar but wasn't enough to get oil pan clearance... rented a hoist, pulled all the nuts & bolts I could find attaching subframe to frame including engine mounts but the subframe didn't move... last month and a half in a nutshell.