pairrothead01
-
Posts
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by pairrothead01
-
-
during my replacement of water pump, while I was putting the tensioner back in the metal gasket slid down behind the timing chain cover.
Not visible......
I know im f'd.....but any helpful suggestion would be appreciated.
I am not setup to lift the engine to remove upper and lower oil pan.
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
update....
Found drain plug....
info from techician was not correct
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk -
Had the chance to chat with a technician at local Nissan, it was shared with me that some 2003 pathfinders had dowels installed vs plugs. Also, to prevent any coolant spillage into the time chain cover with this dowel install there is a drainage into oil pan. But this comes with the need to drain oil after job.I don't know the 3.5, but that looks like a dowel pin to me.
Interesting, because I did not find anything over the inter-web to suggest this was fact.....I will just have to keep my eyes opening and observe during the removal if it is a fact.
Will share afterward.....
Who doesn't want to remove a timing chain cover......the adventure.....cost....time....I should rethink this....hmmmm.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Plugs is not a bolt.....it is a plug.
How does someone go about removing this and is it threaded?
Would like to know if I am going to have to need to tap a hole.
Add some pictures...
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
All good on bought parts...
Thanks
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk -
Those were my feelings....but needed someone to reinforce my on thoughts.
Thanks
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk -
Power valves done.
Used blue gel locktite
Sorry I didn't take a pick or two....the valve flap, looked as if it had a countersinked hole from the movement.
The screw had flatten threads under the screw head also.
Hope that doesn't comeback to bite me.
Will I see some performance improvement from this fix?
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk-
1
-
-
Update....found out the name of the part a broke......Pintle Cap.
I have been able to locate this part in sets less than $20.
Alternate option to consider.
Set comes with filter/strainer for injector.
Weighting the pros and cons of opening up fuel system.
Going to ohm check all the injectors first, just in case the #3 cylinder misfire I coded, which started me on this project, is cause by the injector.
That might be my push to open fuel system.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk -
Thank you.....Matched sets are not required for non race vehicles. You are fine to buy a single.
Remans were iffy on the old Maxima injectors specifically. I'd probably go for a new one.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
They're so many out there at such different prices.
What about the piece I broke.....ever seen it as a single item?
Very helpful...
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Back again as I have a R50 project going on. 2003 LE 140,000 miles
As I was replacing the Water outlet hose and water control valve thermostat, I must have leaned ever so slightly on the fuel rail and the number 2 injector.
I had somehow cracked the brown plastic/phenolic piece on the injector next to the big green O-ring.
Found this as I was getting ready to put the fuel rail back.
Big question is what are my options.
Looked online and do not see that that piece is available as a seperate item.
I see there are new injector available starting at pricey to god no......then there are the remanufacturers.
Can I get one injector and just replace the damaged one....or will I have to purchase a matched set?
Appreciate advice on best next steps vs most economical next steps.
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for the notice.....inspected the valves and 4 of 6 were loose.While it's apart, check the power valve screws, if you haven't (if it's an automatic).
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
2
-
-
Folk,
Doing some cooling hose replacements while I have removed most of the intake parts getting to the plugs and ignition coils to replace.
I found while removing all the long bolts of those assemblies ..... there was blue compound on all of them.
I assume it is blue locktite.....but in the FSM, it does not have any reference to applying a thread locking agent.
Advice welcome, I have blue locktite if this is a norm for DIY reinstallation as a prevenative measure for success.
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
Interesting,Quick question. Never heard of running ATF and Seafoam. Please elaborate. MTG
Nominally, how much of each would be used?
Also, mix before oil change or after oil is drained.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
That is something I needed to know....That does assume that the seals are in good condition and not leaking. You will have some fluid leaking out of the transfer case when the rear drive shaft is removed.
Thanks
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Thank you......that helps.When you remove the transfer case you will not loose oil. The bay between the transmission and transfer case is a dry bay.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Anything special I need to know if I remove the transfer case separately before the SFD?
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk -
Thanks for painting the picture in detail.
I have a large break of holiday time at the end of next month so I will take the shot around then.
This is such a great forum.....all shared info was and is appreciated.
If I don't get myself real crunched on time maybe I will get some pictures and video of the adventure.
Then share......
Thank for the tip on seal install.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk -
OK,Dropping the trans is only a pain because of tool access and hard to reach fasteners. Having done the RMS job as well as the SFD the method I would use if I had to do it again is similar to a SFD installation.
By using rear trailing arm bolts in place of the OE subframe bolts you can leave most of your engine components as well as wiring in place and drop the entire subframe a few inches. [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] tought me this method and it works very well. This will facilitate tool access and open up a lot room in between the top of the tans and the trans tunnel to see what you need to get at like the upper bell housing bolts, the nickle plated breather tube assembly thats bolts to the upper bell housing and the coolant cross over tube. Then while you're at it toss in a pair of gaskets for the coolant cross over tube because that also requires the trans to be dropped and a SFD because all the work to get there is the same.
Intriging....using this SFD method you still need to remove the trany, it allows better access to everything that needs to be removed?
Please state what the acronim means.
Also I am beginnig to understand if it is the oil leak I am targeting, I need to consider oil pan gasket replacement, RMS replacement, go after that nickle thingy(sorry for my ignorance on what that is...more research needed), and I am also aware that the oil could be coming from the bore hole, oil cooler gasket and O-ring.
Sounds like I need to take a week or 2 of vacation time to do all this.
I appreciate all of you giving input and advice.......but from what I saw on youtube on a transmission removal on a R51.....this SFD method offers hope that I will attempt this versus dumping blue devil and/or Bars rear main seal restorer in a every oil change.
Would you have any pics of the subframe bolts in place? Any pics of the sequence of steps?
Thanks again.
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
I know about the valve covers......not about the bore plug.Are you sure it is the rear main? Common leaks that seem like a rear main is the valve covers or the camshaft bore plug.
My focus on main is I'm seeing oil drips that appear to originate from the opening at the bottom of bellhousing.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Quart every 3 - 4 monthsIt’s gonna suck. How bad is it leaking?
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
I had done that....reading through it exposed the desire to see a video or videos on parts of the procedures, doing this would help me decide how much pre planning and time I will need to commit.
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manuals.html
Find your specific year and go through procedure. Search index to find it.
Good luck!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
-
Folks, I fear I need to replace my rear main seal. Does anyone have a video or a link to a video on how to do what needs to be removed to get to the seal?
Thanks
Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
-
New to the forum and first time posting.
03 pathfinder LE
Looking to add some new tires to my stock pathy that will make it more 4x4 capable to a novice off-road driver.
Look forward to reading through the threads for help.
Found the forum as I was replacing some worn out trailing arm bushings.
Thanks
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
2003 pathfinder R50 timing chain tensioner
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks for the info...
Have the Haynes book and totally agree on its usefulness......although some of the illustrations are hard to see due to low print ink.
What you describe is what everything I read said.
I was lucky though.....had a neighbor who let me borrow an inspection cam.
Was able to find it sitting about 2 " down inside....use a copper wire with a hook and fished it out.....had to grab and twist some with a long nose to get it completely out.....definitely had to replace after that.....those cameras due have some usefulness.
Went back at it with flat braided dishing line thru lower bolt hold to assure it didn't slide back in again. Cut once one bolt was in .....finished the rest without issue.
Appreciate the shared advice.
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk