Path_0_logical
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Posts posted by Path_0_logical
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Lol so that lead on craigslist turned out to be bunk. The kid had to be driving the worst kept 04 PF I have seen yet. "How do you know so much about cars? Did you own a Pathfinder before?" Quoth he. Anyways, if I were to buy a used 2003 PF VQ35DE engine (not JDM, USA market), how much do you guys think the labor time is for a direct drop in replacement? Looks like the starter, radiator, oil cooler, alternator and fan all still work on my 03 PF.
Also anyone have experience buying used engines from https://autopartsfair.com/nissan-used_engines/pathfinder-2003-catalog.html?offset=0&fit_notes=bd685c7c0d4432c03e79eb3383f4c4e0&seq_num=3
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4 hours ago, Der_Vier said:
Assuming that you need to replace this with something to drive around in, do you have the money to purchase another vehicle? If not, are you capable to do an engine swap/rebuild? If you have the capability and want to do it, I would find another engine, pull it (if not already pulled), replace everything of importance- WP, Pulleys, Seals, plugs, wires, et al.
Drain and fill trans and transfer case a few times- and diffs while you're at it, because why not?
Dry out the interior and clean it real well to ensure no mold shows up, and drive drive drive.
Or if you have the cash/credit available, save yourself all the time and go buy a replacement.
HTHFair enough. Looks like I'll be able to buy a new used 03 or 04 PF for the less than the price of an engine swap (my mech quoted me at max 4500 CAD with the taxes)... with less or around the same mileage to boot. Then I can cannibalize parts from the old PF before I sent it off to the wreckers.
I'll trawl around craigslist for PFs... it'll be fun to pretend that I know nothing about Pathys when I'm doing the inspection/test drive
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So like the title sez, I went wading through a waist deep muddy rain water puddle the engine sucked in some water through the intake and one or more of the connecting rods got bent. As well, as I went 4 wheelin' at midnight (lol) and managed to lose my goddamn cell phone in the puddle I had to leave it in until morning to recover the car. It had some water seepage into the cab on the driver side, but it did stall on the side of the puddle so the passenger side of the cab did not have water ingress.
After a hilarious recovery operation and a weekend at the shop (got the water out of the engine and it still runs), the engine is now making a loud ticking/knocking noise, but all the electrical components seem to work and there are no ODB codes being thrown. Edit: seems the tranny and t-case still work ok... can still shift into 4Lo and the 4Lo indicator does not blink
Sooooo my question is, is it worth it to rebuild/swap the engine? Or has the partial flooding doomed my rig?
Any input appreciated.
Press F to pay respects.
P.
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Well, ended up buying a pair of ARB2928 (OME HD) front coil springs from ebay. Most likely gonna end up with the coil springs in the front and the 2''strut spacer in the rear. The slight rake won't be an issue as I'm always hauling stuff when I go 4-wheelin' and that'll push the rear down a bit.
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Well unfortunately my mechanic's out of action until later this week so in the meantime, I've had time to mull over some lifting coil springs instead of the strut spacers... it seems that coil spring lifts will prevent CV binding and wear and seeing as how my car is somewhat old that could really be an issue (CV binding could definitely be a problem when doing some prolonged 4-wheeling due to strut droop after 2'' lift spacers are installed).
With that being said, I managed to find these R51 40mm lift coil springs (front and rear) on ebay. I was wondering if they will fit an R50.Edit: found some 40mm lift R50 King Springs KDFR-66 and KDFR-67
I'll probably end up buying those springs and get them installed. Lol... sometimes I wish I became an auto mechanic instead of an electronics engineer. But not all the time.
Cheers.
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Hey everyone. I wanted to get your advice on how to proceed...
So I got some generic RR 15001.61 locking hubs for my R50 and was gonna install them but ran into some major snags with the hub studs/nuts. I took off the passenger side front wheel, sprayed WD40 on each of the hub studs and then proceed to remove the nuts. However 3 of the nuts were stuck tight and I couldn't get them to unscrew. On top of that I attempted to remove 2 of the other stud nuts, and the nuts just rotate freely without unscrewing from the stud (I read that this may be due to either the nut or stud threads being stripped).
So now I ordered some 304 stainless M8 x 40mm x1.25mm studs and M8 x 1.25mm hex nuts from Ebay, and was planning on getting a hex drive stud extractor (the type that doesnt require drilling the stud) and a propane torch. Any tips/advice on nut and stud removal/replacement? Thanks a bunch.
Edit: I was using a basic 3/8in socket wrench w/ socket for the torquing/untorquing.
Edit 2: Also was wondering if there was a method to brace the rotor so it does not rotate when I am torquing the hub studs/nuts...
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After some digging around it seems 235/85r16 tires will clear the strut with a back space <= 3.75in, which translates into an offset of <= -6mm. Since I have stock 7Jx16 ET20 rims with +20mm offset, seems 1.5in wheel spacers will do the trick, in lieu of getting new rims. Now rubbing on the wheel well, flaps, fender etc. is a different story, but I'm willing to sculpt my truck into a modern art masterpiece lol.
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Hello again.
So after I get the 2'' SFCreation strut spacers installed, will 235/85r16 tires be a drop-in fit? Researching the older posts seems to indicate that 235/85r16 tires will not need BS adjustment nor trimming of the wheel well, mudflaps, etc. Edit: Seems I also have stock 16'' 7Jx16 ET20 rims
Anyway I've got my eyes on a set of Cooper Discoverer A/T3s. Wish me luck.
Cheers.
P
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9 hours ago, mjotrainbrain said:
A strut spacer lift will work well, however if you are willing to spend what is necessary for an SFD I would say don't cheap out on the 2" lift option, get actual lift coils and new struts/shocks; it will ride a million times better, will take rough trails better, and will give you a nice amount of lift, maybe even more than the spacers (since spacers give you 2" over what you have, which may be less than stock because of saggy springs). Unless of course you can find an SFD full kit, then go that route!
Well, I decided to go with the SFCreation 2'' lift kit. Will post pics once it gets installed.
Cheers.
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KG4163 is the part number. Here's the datasheet/specs https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=503793&cc=1431952&jsn=10439
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I got a set of KYB gas-a-just shocks for the rear of my 2003 SE and it's holding up decently in forest service road conditions. I got em off RockAuto for pretty cheap (rn they are 40 USD per).
Addendum: Mind you I'm not sure KYB gas-a-just shocks are best if you plan on getting lifting coils, they might bottom out in dips or pot holes.
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Hello folks,
It was pretty funny heading up the logging roads on my stock 2003 SE after an afternoon pew-pew session, making it all the way up the mountain to the end of the road, and coming down again passing a party of lifted Jeeps and a lifted Dodge Ram. That being said, I was thinking of getting a lift installed on my R50 to clear some of the dips on the trail better. The aftermarket tow hitch on the R50 was dragging the dirt in a few of the dips.
So I was researching the options for lifting and wanted to get your opinions on a struct spacer lift kit and an SFD. For the strut spacers I was looking at the 2'' all around lift kit from SFCreation. As for the SFD, I'm still looking for a pre-fabbed kit that I can buy... if anyone is selling, I'd like to know.
I know the strut spacers are a cheap options for lifting but can only give about a max of 2'' before the angle on the CV axle becomes too great. On the other hand, SFDs preserve the CV angle and give at least 4'' of lift, but are way more expensive in terms of the parts and the labor.
Cheers.
P.
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A picture of my car and not myself. Cuz I'm always anon
And another.
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I added half a quart of Seafoam Trans Tune and it seems to have dampened the jolt somewhat. As far as a cheap fixe goes, I think I'll stick to changing the fluids and see how it goes. Speaking of which, the next scheduled maintenance would be to change the transfer case and rear diff fluid.
Cheers.
P.
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43 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:
Sounds like a hard shift to me. Any codes? The diagnostics for shift shock in the '03 manual suggest checking the accelerator pedal position sensor, line pressure, control valve assembly, various clutches and bands, and (if it's just from first to second that's harsh) the trans fluid temp sensor. I'd start by checking the pedal sensor because it's the one thing on the list that's not in the transmission. Looks like it's got two sensors inside. I would assume one is for the engine (drive by wire) and the other tells the trans computer how hard to shift and when, but it looks like both go through the ECU, so I could be wrong (maybe they're redundant in case one fails).
Hmm yeah a hard shift could be the issue. So far no codes related to this issue. For now I only see this in drive gear. In drive gear with overdrive off and flooring it (pretending I have a G35 turbo lulz) there isn't really any abnormal roughness, the other gears work fine as far as I can tell. I'll try checking the sensors you mentioned.
Cheers.
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Hey all, so I noticed that my Pathy has this thing where when I'm accelerating moderately past 2000 rpm after a few seconds the RPMs drop about 500-1000 and there is a noticeable 'jolt' when the RPMs drop. I guess this may be the automatic transmission downshifting past a certain speed/RPM but I just wanted to confirm, and see if you guys know a way to make the jolt less rough. I had a recent oil change and transmission fluid change, and also did the whole Seafoam through the vacuum line thing to clean the engine.
Let me know what you guys think. Cheers.
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Hello everyone. So I have this 2003 SE with stock 16in rims (7Jx16 ET20 apparently), with a 100mm center bore. I wanna ask if the RR 15001.61 locking hubs fit through the bore without wheel spacers. Your input is appreciated.
Cheers,
Path_0_logical
Engine hydrolocked after deep water wading... rebuild or sell?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Thanks for the suggestion, though I'd be able to cough up enough cash for a ~3000 CAD direct replacement swap and it might end up being a better investment down the line with a lower mileage engine. Rebuilding bent rods from hydrolock is pretty expensive from what I hear.