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Forsaken

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Posts posted by Forsaken

  1. 8 hours ago, R50JR said:

    Obviously, you won’t add anything in terms of R50 discoveries or knowledge, but at least be thoughtful and considerate of others. 

    You seem pretty sure about that. Nice to know we have a great community here.

    What exactly is your experience? I don't doubt that you have some, but lets hear it!
    I have experience in R50 electrical systems replaced and customized entire wiring harnesses on two pathfinders now. I've assembled the powertrain of 3 R50 pathfinders, two of them 5-speed swapped, and I've been wheeling them since I could reach the pedals on top of all the maintenance required over the years.

  2. 21 hours ago, R50JR said:

    No idea where Steve pulled those from but they have been discontinued for a while. I'd rather import tough dog struts at this point. Tough dog struts have a higher perch (actually lifts 30-35mm) so a larger tire can be fitted and they're still manufactured for the same price as OME.

     

    Also, people like you shouldn't be part of a car community. Your selfish post/mentality helped absolutely no one. I get that these aren't available but some guys on here are looking for them and by letting them know where you purchased yours would help them tremendously. In the end, it seems the only reason you even mentioned where you got yours is because they are no longer available so no one else could also enjoy them. Next time keep your childness out of it and communicate like a mature, respectable adult.

    Sorry my post offended you, however I was extremely quick to get the information out in the form of an edited post. I suppose the concept of first come first serve and lines at the supermarket are a thing where you're from are they not? Sorry for not being as helpful as you would like.

    Are you offended that I wanted to grab a set of a limited stock, or that I (perhaps inappropriately) shared pics and a bit of offtopic information? Was it not clear enough that Ill chip in as one of the 25 people needed to get a set?? Honestly I'm confused!

     

    Thinking further on your comment though I think it comes down to this question: Would you rather I be an asshole privately, or be a more transparent kind of asshole who is just frank and straight forward about it? Most people are one, I prefer the latter type though as a personal preference seeing there's little choice but to work with 'em.
    Would I have bought the LAST set to sit on a shelf for a while? No. But if there were a few I would have liked to snap up another set for a future diesel swap pathy... if you wanted a set I get it, but dude... idk what to tell you, that's realtime forum information update for ya.

  3. Dunno if I got lucky, but I just installed a set of OME struts about 3 weeks ago which arrived new in box. Maybe old stock? Ill keep the site to myself until I pick up a couple spares, but its not hard to find :)
    20231013-154444.jpg20231013-154316.jpg
    These are coming back apart for boots and possibly a 1" spacer, then camber bolts and off to the alignment shop. I don't know about that spacer though... I like how it handles with the 31s so far and where I wheel those and a locked front diff can get me anywhere I desire to go. But the winch you say? That's for recovering those poor stuck jeep owners... and dragging logs for firewood :)

    Edit*
    Okay so here's the skinny:
    I ordered from RuggedRocks and sent an email asking about availability. Here's what they told me: "
    I recently shipped the last set that I think I'll be able to get... Unless we put together a 25+ group to buy it won't be in production anymore."

    I'd take a spare set... anyone else?

  4. On 8/19/2023 at 1:39 PM, hawairish said:

     

     Not worth the hassle, IMO.  It's a nice to have, I'll say that much.

    I mean, I'm not gonna drive 3 states over for just that, but if I see one at one of the local junk yards then IMO its worth my time for another 'James-Bond-esque' feature...

    Any experience with the OME struts? I suppose I should do a search of this forum to find reviews, but I needed new ones and those are now literally the only option other than KYBs as far as I know at this time. I hope they serve me well both on road and gravel/offroad as I do about 50% of my driving on each typically.

  5. On 8/12/2023 at 6:24 PM, hawairish said:

    Right?  It appears it used the same switch as the WD21, which apparently was in use from 1994-1999, but I don't see any mention of it in 97+ FSMs.  Interesting feature in a rather feature-less R50 platform.  There were some other oddball features that existed, like rear heated seats, TPMS, and dropdown monitors + VCR systems.  Add adjustable shocks to the list.

    I saw one with an electric actuated rear glass opener... I think it was an '02??
    If I ever see one at the junk yard imma spend all the time it takes to pull that system, wiring harness, driver door panel, and all xD

    I ended up grabbing a set of the OME struts from RuggedRocks and a set of medium '0.5"' lift springs to go with them (probably more like 2.5" lift considering how much mine appear to be sagging). Hopefully that will level out a bit of the rake I have going on after the ~1" lift springs I put in the rear got me around 3" from 20yrs old springs :D

    And I wondered why I seemed to be dragging stuff more when on the trails lately! Lmao

  6. I too am in the market for new struts as one of my 'electronic adjustable' factory struts has finally given up and is leaking from the top. I really wish the ones with the adjuster on top that the electronic actuator turns to adjust the ride were still available from Nissan :/

    Maybe I can source some from Japan or something...

  7. Well I've had great success with the good ol' Lincoln locker, or in my case "Hobart locker". :D

    It sure would be nice to have a selectable ARB in the front, but now that I've got the mandatory locking hubs that MUST precede the installation of such a 'locker' for going anywhere on pavement I've definitely noticed a slight increase in mpg versus the open diff with the slugs, and a definite and more noticeable increase in uh... 'pepp'? when I drop a gear and floor it since the front driveline isn't connected and forced to rotate when not in use. I haven't haven't popped a CV since installing that diff, and aside from the steering being pretty stiff I'm able to crawl through stuff I had to use a bit more momentum to get through before. Now it just GOES just about anywhere its pointed when the hubs are locked.

    For these reasons I've come to the conclusion that the welded front diff is likely staying unless I get a GREAT deal on an ARB, simply due to the fact that unless I need 4WD the hubs will be unlocked anyway for the better performance and fuel economy.
    But hey, if anyone here has an ARB they can't get rid of I'd probably take it off your hands for the right price just to save wear and tear on my power steering pump when I'm out on the trails, and possibly gain a bit more control in 4x4 on on icy roads at slightly higher speeds, which IMO are the only two reasons to have selectable lockers to begin with.
    Otherwise... I still have one good spare PS pump on my spare engine. ya know... right next to my TWO (complete with transfer cases, driveshafts, clutch lines, etc. etc.) spare 5-speed transmissions and TWO sets of front and rear diffs.

    Anyway... that's my 2¢ on the front locker debate.

    God help us all if I need the spare uh... 'unibody assembly' I guess you would call it?? sitting by the shop. 🤣😂 In any case I don't intend to break down any time soon, at least not for too long anyway. LOL

  8. Does anyone know of a system that can be used as a replacement or retrofit for the factory key fobs? I have a hackRF one, a software defined radio that can be used to record the 433mhz (or was it 315 for these? Its been a couple months so I forgot) and replay the signal at will to lock/unlock/alarm on this and vehicles which the manufacturer didn't bother to implement rolling codes. Some vehicles are vulnerable to variants of this sort of attack as recently as 2020, but are are more complicated to do each model year as the manufacturers get wise, at least from what I read.

    I'm mainly interested in keyless entry retrofit kits for the extra features such as remote start among other things, and not really at all concerned about theft of a 5-spd with non color matched panel/hood trail and utility rig... :D If there isn't something easy then Ill probably just grab a kit with the features I want or can add, then get out the soldering station and electrical service manual and just make it happen.

    There are a number of features i have seen in some kits, and I have some ideas on how to make each of them work...
    Things like:
    Remote window/moon-roof control
    Remote solenoid for kicking the shifter into neutral (if the hand brake is on) to allow remote start if left in gear (5spd)
    Programmable light flashes and horn beeps for lock/unlock etc.
    Secured RF protocol fob, maybe even a 2 way communication fob with a digital display

    My google travels haven't been successful in finding documented attempts to bring these features to any older vehicle which surprises me since everything seems doable with some custom editions to the wiring harness.

  9. I have a buddy who I will be helping with a 5spd swap this coming weekend, and I was wondering if there is a way to convert the automatic ECU to work with a manual. I wasn't able to find anything on it with a quick search, but I have the auto ECU from my swap sitting on a shelf, so we have two to work with if I end up screwing one up... If infact it can be done. We're trying to avoid paying out the ass for one right at this moment, or having to wait until something good comes through the local scrap yard since its currently his daily, and the auto is on its last leg.

    The one I have is from a '96, and he's converting a '97. I know there are differences between the two (I have the PDF for both), but having said that, I'm running the 5spd ECU from my rusty '97 in my current pathfinder. From a thread that I can no longer find on another forum I remember something about the main difference having something to do with throttle position tracking? I will be studying the PDF closely here before the weekend, so If I do find a way to do it before I get any replies I will be sure to post it.

  10. A while back I swapped my engine and 5 speed into a 96 body due to mine being rusted out. I have been driving it for a while, and I just had to tear the intake manifold off to replace injectors, knock sensor, and driver side valve cover gasket (the last two I have been putting off for atleast 8 years)?.

     

    Yes, I know some of these codes need to be addressed, but I'm interested in solutions to the fuel temperature sensor, baraoetric pressure, and Evap control stuff.

     

    Its running better than ever now, and the rough idle I was dealing with for a while is 100% cleared up. However, I noticed that the 96 doesn't have a few sensors that the 97 had. (see ECU pinout below)

    I don't live in an area where I HAVE to get the sensors fixed, but I would still like to clear up the check engine light incase I move in the future, as the counties around me aren't quite as lax on emissions. Any suggestions? 300,000 miles, and I plan to get atleast another 50k out of it :)

     

    If the wiring harness has the leads for the sensors, Ill just pull them off of my rusty pathy, but if not I guess I'm going to have to get some resistors and 'fix' it... Just wondering if anyone here has experience with such things before I jump in.

     

    Here is the 97 pinout:

    2njev07.jpg

     

    Here's the 96 pinout:

    35a7x95.jpg

     

    988wgo.jpg

    2iafncw.jpg

  11. Just use a compression fitting. My previous pathfinder spent most of its life on salty roads, and all the rear brake lines rusted out. I got new ones and used compression fittings to splice everything back together. I know its not good practice to do this..... but sometimes, you gotto do what you gotto do. It held for almost 4 years until last week when I parked it for good and pulled the engine and trans out to put in a body with less rust.

    • Like 1
  12. I have a rusted out 97 r50, and just picked up a garage kept 96 on Craigslist for dirt cheap because someone didn't check their oil and locked up the engine. I'm swapping my engine and manual transmission into it since I hate automatics xD

     

    The engine (vg33e) has 280,000 on it, but still sounds great. I have done:

     

    Water pump

    Timing belt

    Oil pump gasket + front crank seal

    Rear main seal

    Oil pan gasket

    Valve cover gaskets

    Plenum upper and lower gaskets

    oh, and knock sensor LOL

     

    I'm thinking about removing the EGR crap, but I'm not sure what all is involved with that on the electronics side of things...

     

    I got a stage 1 clutch (mine had over 200,000 on it) I'm also planning to do shifter bushings, and change the tranny oil.

     

    Can anyone tell me what else I should do while I'm in here?

     

     

    Here's some pics of the new beast! Ill be sure to post pics after I'm done with everything, and I have a few more of the process so far. Hoping to drop the engine and tranny in this next week before it gets too cold.

     

    23658663_10210579184779051_4772000848357

     

    23799983_10210579185339065_4252026942561

    23736231_10210579185099059_7749746386004

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