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SnoViking

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Posts posted by SnoViking

  1. Usually the clicking noise means its a low/almost dead battery. Take it to a parts place and have them check the voltage. Have you replaced the battery in the 2 years youve owned the truck? If not, with the 20 degrees C, it might be time. Cold kills batteries. If it was the solenoid or starter it wouldnt start at all... clicking or intermittant usualy means low voltage.

     

    Pat

  2. I think the yakima system looks alittle smoother but the square bars do have their advantages... both round and sqaure bars can hold the same weight. I love my roof rack system... i got a basket which I sized about 4 inches smaller than my roof... and then i have cross bars about 1 foot wider than the basket... and on the extra 6 inches of each side I have my bike mounts... so i can put my canoe and 2 bikes or 2 kayaks and 2 bikes up top.... PLUS.... i can still put stufff in the basket under the boats... like Herm said though.. once you get all that gear in the car.... your suspension in lacking... i went to a jeep grand chereokee coil because it has a spring rate of 240, vs. the stock 180 spring rate.... its alittle stiffer ride but I got used to it quick and it works great. I use the roof rack basket combo alot since I have 2 dogs who ride in the back cargo area... so therefor... all the gear goes up top.

     

    just my 2 cents....

     

     

    pat

  3. hmmm... you can build a yakima or thule rack for about $100... i have the yakima door clips for a yakima system if you want ot buy them for cheap... they sell for about $40 in the store.. ill sell them to you for $20... then youd just have to buy Q towers and bars..... you can get the towers on ebay like these.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3693208695&rd=1

     

    from that system you can build alot and add things like canoe/kayaks/skis etc.... the bars i would buy at your local store.. theyre alot ot ship so skip the online buying....

     

     

    thats just my opinion

     

    pat

  4. Hey guys..... a note on the fuel milage subject.... somethign i realized the other day really made me happy.... im getting about 280 miles on a tank of fuel (65% city: 35% highway)... which I thought was ok, but im always looking for alittle extra... but heres what i realized... ok... so I got bigger tires than stock... im up to 31"s... which arent big by anymeans but bigger than stock... and everyone makes a big deal about it affecting your speedo... well... it also effects your odometer.... heres my simple math.... my speedo is off 5 mph at 55 mph... so im actually driving at 60 mph when the speedo says 55 mpg.... so when my odometer says 55 miles... its actually 60 miles... so 280 miles actually equals 305 miles.... that made my day when i realized that...

     

    now go do some math if you have big tires!

     

     

    pat

     

     

    p.s. that might explain a milage drop right after you got big tires.....

  5. Hey guys.... I just called my Nissan dealer and checked about the pin that goes into the frame... they want $24 for it! now i havent had much luck at this dealer either so maybe the trend just continues... does anyone know what thread that pin is? Im wondering if I can make one out of some graded steel threaded stock?

     

    thanks guys..

     

     

    pat

  6. ok... so I got new upper A- arms and torsion bars from Calmini... and it didnt come with any kind of instructions... which i didnt think I needed... butttt.... of course Ive run into a brick wall.... and those instructions would have been nice....

     

    so I unbolted the 3 nuts that are part of the upper A arm... there are 2 on the base closest to the engine bay and 1 on top of the ball joint (right term?)... anyway.. Im looking at this and thinking... now what? do I have to take the other 2 nuts/bolts off that hold the one bar thing (i cant figure out what its called) but its attached to the base of the A-arm and holds what i think is an axle of some part. can that axle be slid out? so i dont have to take off that other mounting point to the frame? if i have to take those other 2 bolts off im ganna need to get an impact wrench im thinking....

     

    ok... next quetion....the torsion bars

     

    To remove the stock bars, do I need to unbolt the 3 nuts/bolts towards the front of the car? (after i take the tension out of the bar at the adjustment point of course) and then slide the torsion bar out from the back mounting point? I tried the 3 bolts at the front mounting place and of course theyre rusted solid... i just want to make sure those are the right bolts/nuts before I go killing my self under there....

     

     

     

    any help would be great... anyhow.. the back end lift went smooth as cake..

     

     

     

    pat

  7. A friend of mine who has a '96 Pathfinder and he got a rear tire carrier when he bought the truck new. it looks sweet... my '93 XE didnt come with an external carrier... i got a valley industries carrier... i love it... it came as a class II hitch combo... the hitch mounts to the frame and the tire carrier attaches to the hitch through the frame... so my tire carrier can supposeitly hold up to 500 lbs... which i was surprised to read... but its really nice.. it looks nice and clean... i tried to find it on www.valleyindustries.com but i couldnt find it.... when i update my npora website ill add a pic of it....

     

     

     

    pat

  8. I wonder how close the tail gate out of a hardbody would fit in a Pathfinder? otherwise i would have to fab some bottom hinges to make a tailgate. i was even thinking about trimming the whole roof and making it like a jeep wrangler soft top... then use 3.5 inch round tubing to make full length roll bar/cage.

     

     

    p.s. I just put new seats and a 4 inch lift .... which came out to be almost 6 inches cause my stock suspension was so tired... it looks awesome... as soon as i get some new pics ill post them and update my npora web site.

     

     

    Pat

  9. I talked to an upolstrey shop and they said they could use insulated material and also use the same type of supports as used on truck beds. The one guy suggested a system which used snaps and velco, and at the one end it was a solid aluminum piece which locked and could only be opened from the inside. Thanks for the input everybody.

     

    Pat

  10. Hey guys... ok... heres the deal.... Ive been thinking about it alot and researching to the best I can.... and im thinking of making a soft top for the Pathfinder.... My idea is to trim the inside of the roof.... about a foot from the front ( to clear the sun shades inside) 6 inches from either side ( so i still have some strength) and right before the speakers in the back. So it would pretty much be like a big sunroof...... Then i would use a tonnoue (or however its spelled) cover thats custom sized. I would use the snap/velco combo one... i saw a kit today that had a really nice latch and supports and everything on it. Im really giving this alot of thought so Id like some input here. thanks guys.

     

     

    Pat

  11. Do you have an auto or manual? Im thinking of getting new headers but i keep reading things about modifications for autos and stuff.... kinda scares me. Let me know how everything goes. I hear youre pain with the S4, lots of toys to play with, and less $$ to play with. B)

     

     

    Pat

  12. I couldnt find a decent 3 inch lift kit and I wanted some rear coils with a higher spring rate... so when i put my 2 dogs, 3 friends and gear in the truck, i dont loose my wonderful lift, so I got JGC 2 inch lift coils, which have a spring rate of 240 (vs the pathy 180)... I jsut put them on tonight and its just a hair over 4 inches in the rear. It looks awesome and i put the pups and my girl friend in the back along with some other junk for weight and it held up like a champ. I have the calmini front A arms and their HD torsion bars for the front which im doing tomorrow when theres more day light. Im excited to finally have a lift.

     

     

    Pat

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