ScottyB
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Posts posted by ScottyB
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After much trouble shooting and wire tracing (and a reluctance to try to get at the neutral safety switch connection) we have traced the problem to the neutral safety switch circuit. We will probably start digging into that this weekend. He's thinking he may have broken the switch trying to remove it though.
Progress has been made!
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Somewhere in here I started a build thread but lost track of it. Last June, I bought a 96 SE for $300 and towed it home knowing it had a trans problem. It had no battery when I bought it so when we got it home we threw an old battery in it and jump started it. Engine sounded great but we saw the trans was pissing fluid.
This left us knowing that the vehicle ran.
My 19 year old son who is going to school to be a mechanic has done most of the labor on this in his limited spare time. By December, he had finally managed to finish pulling the transmission and we discovered the input seal was shot. This turned into an easy fix. We pulled the pan and an inspection lead us to believe the rest of the trans was in great shape. The reinstall went much quicker than pulling it but no nearly as fast as some of you, I'm sure. As a side project we pulled the front bumper and grill to clean those up. The bumper was in rough shape.
My son was excited two weeks ago for me to come home from work so that I could be the first to start it. I got home and we went to start it and turned the key and nothing. There is a relay click, but no solinoid click. I know that the starter works because when we jump starter power to the solinoid it fires.
We used a test light to verify that the signal wire to the starter is not being energized.
Problems we are experiencing:
1) We are unable to find a relay that says starter.
2) We have several relays we are clueless about such as the ASCD and ATP relays.
3) With the key in the on position, the ATP relay gets quite warm. This seems a bit odd.
I tried to rule out the Neutral Safety Switch by holding the key in the start position and running the shifter through the gears. When it goes into Reverse or Drive there is a brief buzz. To me that indicates that the neutral safety switch is doing it's job properly.
At this point, I am thinking that the computer has taken a vote somewhere along the line and decided to not allow signal to starter but I can't be sure.
We pulled codes, the only code we are showing is a P0505. I don't believe that is the source of my problem.
I'm looking for any wisdom you folks have to share with me on this.
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Sorry to hear about your frustrations. Great job with the pictures and documentation. Just an observation on why the insurance company ruled the way they did from the perspective of a professional driver...
It isn't enough to simply not hit stuff. All drivers have an obligation to actively avoid accidents. That said, they likely looked at your side of the equation and concluded that had you backed out of it when he started driving irratically the accident likely wouldn't have happened. In other words, they made the determination that you did not do everything possible to avoid the accident. I'm not saying you were driving like a jerk, just that you may not have been driving to actively avoid an incident.
I can tell you that if you had been driving a commercial vehicle and gave me the same report I would find the accident to be preventable, which is to say that you as a driver could have taken action to prevent it.
I don't mention this to be a jerk or anything like that but rather to give a little insight into what the insurance companies look at.
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Okay you think the TPS is probably the reason for the 3k rev limit?
Possible, you said you played with it and things got a little better. All I'm saying is test it to see if it is part of your problem. I hate throwing money and parts at problems without knowing if what I'm replacing is the culprit.
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Just because the TPS adjustment made the car sound better doesn't mean the TPS isn't toast. I don't remember if the last one I checked was via voltage or resistence but I think it was resistence. If you but an ohm meter on it the numbers whould go up smoothly, not in blocky chunks. Put a meter on it and see how it responds.
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Sorry, I only pretend to be a mechanic on my own vehicles. While there may be valve damage, the backfire makes it sound like he's 180 out to me. Perhaps he got lucky that way.
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Is the cam out one revolution? I have other engines where the cam turns twice for each crank revolution.
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Hey Brian, electricity, not unlike water, will find the shortest route to ground. A Sparky's 1st rule, hence your problems. If poss, double up on the heat shrink, solder ur connections when at all possible (a true mechanical connection) and use dielectric grease(moisture protection)on ALL ur spade & terminal connectors.
I'm not sure what the speaker mfgr's are thinking when including that 24 Guage @!*%e wire they throw in the packaging but NEVER use it. Unless you are driving a stupid amount of amps, 18/2 STRANDED is more than addiquit for your purposes. Homie D/Lowes has it by the foot-and always get more than you THINK you need. I LOVE tools but I have yet to find a "wire stretcher-lol.
27+ years as a low voltage technician, I know of what I speak.
Bunchie,
I respect the years you have in low voltage electrical work. I've worked that field myself in the past so I still pay some attention to what goes on there. For years, I would have agreed with you about soldering the connections. One of my best friends was telling me recently though that he does very little soldering anymore. MILSPEC is now for a proper crimp connection. Reason being that the dissimilar metals between the solder and wire react different to heat and vibration over time. The key to the crimp is the proper tools, it isn't just a flat crimp.
Take it for what it is worth.
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I would clean it but the smell of it is like a dead animal.. you know my shoes sometimes get this way and the one and only thing I've found that resets the stank is bleach. Other chemicals greatly reduce the stench but it always quickly returns.. I guess I could soak it in bleach.. money is tight for a little while so this is likely to be what actually happens. Only problem with that is the heel shaped hole right under the gas peddle which gets nearly as hot as the sun.. hmmm.. I just don't know..
There are enzyme treatments that will treat the odors. Pet stores have a variety of them for cleaning up pet stains. I have used a product called "Odor Exit" with great success for several years. I used to use it whenever I was assigned a new truck. When I was done I would have a truck that smelled almost new instead of smelling like a cigarette infested sweat shop.
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I tend to agree w/Citron on his point. So, that being said, if you ARE concidering buying a new PF, may I suggest you look up here rather than stateside only, for 2 reasons: 1) your $ is worth 1.25 % more up here and 2) there are a lot of PF's for sale up here, in good condition, for reasonable $$'s. Budget dependant, for example, right now on CL, a 2004 R50 Chilkoot ed., 300K kms (that's 200K MILES), female driven from/to school (no 4x4ing-sez that in ad) touch screen stereo, etc, owner looking for a quick sale $3200 CAN OBO. You're only a couple of hours down the hwy and it might worth your while to check it out. I would be willing to forward some potential candidates if you are interested.
For instance just PU'd a 2002 R50 that needed repairs(spent a Grand on parts in total) for $1000.
Just throwing it out there.....
Importing can be problematic though. Make sure you do your research on how to get that done. It is vehicle specific.
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I worked 2 years driving tow truck (no, that doesn't make me an authority). I did bring that up with several different tire shops various auto shops and this is the consistent answer I get. I freely admit I am not an expert, I just try to pass on what I have picked up along the way. It isn't as much of a catastophic failure as they don't wear properly when you change the direction of the tire rotation. I am OK being wrong and corrected but this wasn't just one guys opinion.
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But I now want to get all five tires instead of four. This way I can rotate them properly.
This is old school thinking. With bias tires you could rotate tires using a 5 tire rotation. Modern steel belted radials do not like to change direction of rotation. This is not to say that all steel belted radials are directional, but they wear that way over time. Tires should only be rotated front and back on the same side of the vehicle.
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There is a difference between voltage and amperage. I've seen "fully charged" 13v batteries that did not have the amperage to light a lamp. It isn't as common but an alternator can fail in a way where voltage is up and amperage isn't. Or the battery doesn't hold the amperage anymore.
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Greets Peeps! My son recently bought a 92 Pathfinder. This was my first experience with a Pathfinder. How he got it is a long story but I spotted it for a friend a couple years ago and now my son has it. Living in the foothills of Western Washington I have decided 4wd is a necessity in this area. I found a 96 Pathfinder locally that has been a lawn ornament for almost a year with suspected transmission problems. I used to drive tow truck and had towed this one before (for a water pump of all things) so I knew it received regular maintenance. The kid who was driving it managed to rear end someone just before the tranny started acting up, so the front bumper assembly needs to replaced.
I offered the owner $300 and towed it out of there. I got it home and discovered the battery was gone, as are the fuse panel covers (both inside and out), the radio, as well as the skid plate. The wiper fluid bottle leaks. Right rear door doesn't open, yet. I pulled the transmission dipstick and wiped the dust off of it. The engine dipstick looks great! Nice clean oil. Radiator was about a quart low and fluid was clear, not a great sign. So I added a quart of Transmission fluid, topped off the radiator, and threw in a battery from my old C-30 and fired it up. The engine sounds GREAT! The quart of transmission fluid found it's way to my shop floor. Sounds like the pump went out on the transmission which likely means metal throughout the transmission, hence a toasted transmission.
My son and I started checking what we could. All lights are working as are the windows. Even the sunroof works. I have found a semi local wrecking yard that has a 96 that has an intact front end with only 140k miles on it. I need to scrape together some more cash but when I have it I am thinking I should be able to get all my missing pieces (minus the radio) from the one vehicle.
Anyway, that is the story of what I have and what I need to start looking into fixing.
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If you haven't downloaded your FSMs, better do it soon...
in General Forums
Posted
I guess I should have seen this sooner. Missed out for my 96 and 93. Live and learn I guess.