Mbrianc
-
Posts
34 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Mbrianc
-
-
I use ndsii on Android. It provides some consult ii features like idle air volume relearn and clearing self learning.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
I found one in good condition off of a qx4 in a junkyard. Mine cracked removing it to change plugs.
Little bitty crack on the flexible piece where you couldn't hardly see it gave me all kinds of headaches diagnosing a misfire after Changing the plugs and coils.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
I had a noise like that coming from the front of my 02 at highway speeds only. Turns out the PO had serviced the front driver side wheel bearings, and didn't use enough grease.
Cost me two new bearings and a hub assembly.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
Get the Maxima maf. Some of the pathfinders have security torx screws, mine just had regular torx screws. Real quick change, just don't drop it. I hear they are somewhat sensitive to shock.
The Maxima maf was cheap enough that I just changed mine when I did plugs and coils. You'll have to clear the self learning and relearn idle air volume afterwards though.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
A word of advice though. I have a backup camera in my 02, and none of the wireless transmitters I used would work worth a damn.
If they would connect, the picture quality would suck. I finally hardwired the video, and wished I would have done that in the first place. Would have saved me some time and money.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
2
-
-
Perhaps one of those paddle airflow switches from an HVAC system or a dryer to open the control circuit on the relay?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
Did you have to install a diode to keep from backfeeding the relay when the fan is off and you are at speed?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
Oh yeah, as soon as I take off the fans shut off.
I'll play with it some more, but just in case, I ordered a new clutch and fan (aftermarket of course). Push come to shove, I'll mount one on the AC condenser for airflow at idle for the AC.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
I appreciate your input, and I will look into what can be done. Push come to shove, I can always put a new clutch and fan in.
However those fans you linked would draw way too many amps for the stock alternator.
And just out of curiosity, where should the probe be mounted? The position I chose was where the controller instructions indicated. But you actually have experience messing with these things.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
Oh yeah, I saw it. That bad boy is expensive. I can probably fab a shroud like that and purchase my own fans. Would need some better fans, but it could still be done for a good bit less than that.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
Yeah, I am starting to believe you are correct. I just put it indoors and used my fogger that I test my PC case airflows with.
While there is substantial pull through the radiator, there is a draft of hot air coming out from around the edges of the radiator and immediately being pulled back in. Recycling its own hot air.
So the answer would be to put at fan with substantially higher airflow, or seal around the radiator to prevent the engine bay from exchanging air with itself.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
1
-
-
Here they are. I haven't cleaned the wiring up. Was waiting until I was sure it is operating correctly.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
-
I'll send a pic in a little while but I think you are correct. While those fans were rated at 1650 and 1200 cfm, I would bet there performance is reduced when encountering that high pressure air pocket created by a closed hood. And yes perhaps even forcing air back through the radiator.
Out of curiosity, your problems with electric fans developed while offroading and using extra light bars and such correct? No problems under normal driving conditions?
-
I can get you one in a few hours when I am back at the house. If it is a shroud issue, I have a maxima fan shroud without the fans.
A little work with some scrap sheet metal would fit my fans to it.
-
I haven't tried a temp as high as 210. I tried 195 and 200. If it worked at 210, I am not sure I would be comfortable running it that high.
I did a test with the the heater on max and the ECT went all the way down to 175! But the fans still didn't shut off with the hood closed. Really has me scratching my head.
-
Same thing. Hood open, the temp drops a couple of degrees and the fans turn off. Hood closed, the temp doesn't change and the fans stay on constantly once the temp is reached.
I'll also note that the controller doesn't have the temp in increments on the screw. I don't know what temp the controller thinks it is set for, which is why I am using the ECT.
-
My scan tool is a Bluetooth OBD dongle combined with the NDS II app on my phone. I can even log data while I drive and reset self learning and learn idle air volume with it.
-
I have done that multiple times from cold. The ECT reads 190 the first time the fans run. 192 after it is warmed up.
The radiator is a top down flow. The sensor is installed about two inches below the coolant inlet.
All of the testing I have done with it I have been using my scan tool. With the hood open, ECT goes from 190-192 back down to 189 when the fans cycle.
When the hood is closed, the ECT doesn't change at idle. No increase or decrease at idle and the fans are constantly on. At speed, the temps go as low as 186 and of course the fans don't turn on.
-
They turn on when the engine warms up. Been a couple of mornings already that I drive all the way to work and they never started even once.
Yes I am watching the ECT sensor. The guage on the dash will be at the middle from anywhere from 160 to 210 lol. Nowhere near accurate. So I ran the engine until the ECT reported 190 degrees and then slowly adjusted the screw on the controller until the fans started.
I really like the way it runs with that clutch fan removed. And it doesn't overheat at all, but we aren't into the summer yet either.
-
Thank you for your input. I did consider that issue, so I flushed the radiator, changed the water pump, and the lower thermostat.
While I haven't actually checked the exact temp of the lower hose, I can grab it and it's obvious that the radiator is cooling. It was before I changed those parts as well.
At this point I am starting to think that the ambient temp under the hood is affecting the temp probe, or the airflow of the fans is seriously impeded once the hood is closed and the static pressure increases.
-
Thank you for your input. I did consider that issue, so I flushed the radiator, changed the water pump, and the lower thermostat.
While I haven't actually checked the exact temp of the lower hose, I can grab it and it's obvious that the radiator is cooling. It was before I changed those parts as well.
At this point I am starting to think that the ambient temp under the hood is affecting the temp probe, or the airflow of the fans is seriously impeded once the hood is closed and the static pressure increases.
-
The fan controller is adjustable by a small screw there is no indication on the screw what temp it is at, which is why I used and OBD tool.
The thermostat is factory, no changes there. and the fans do shut off at speed.
-
Update:
I have acquired a maxima fan shroud that pretty much just bolts up to the radiator. It has no fans in it, but a small amount of modification should make my electric fans fit it. Got it at a junkyard for 20 bucks!
However, I did some more toying around with the controller settings and temp readings from the OBD.
As I stated before, I set the fans to come on when the OBD reads 190 from the ECT. The fans cycle on and off with hood open, and stay on constant with the hood closed at idle.
As a test I left the hood closed, waited for the fans to turn on, and then turned the heater on max when they started. The ECT went all they way down to 179 and the fans still wouldn't shut off until I opened the hood!
What am I missing here? I originally suspected a bad temp probe, but I don't think it would just be bad with the hood closed.
-
I'll keep that it mind if these fans don't pan out. I was advised on Nico forums a couple years back to not even bother with the aftermarket clutches.
R50 A/C compressor bearing Question
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Mbrianc
The bearing is staked in the clutch. A little work with a Dremel and it comes off. The pain is removing the snap ring off the compressor shaft with the compressor still in the vehicle.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk