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husky570

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Posts posted by husky570

  1. Will you not just end up with a clogged PCV valve, and line?

     

     

    Good question Simon, dunno, but definately wanting to consider some other alternative than replacing the PCV side valve cover , already been into the top of the motor doing the power valves, dont really want to go down in and replace the valve cover if there is some other solution to the problem.

  2. This is actually a common problem according to a master tech at a Nissan dealership who posts on NissanHelp.com. They replace the one valve cover with a revised design one and it fixes the problem.

     

     

    Im wondering if it can be fixed with the peice of foam in the PCV line to slow down and trap oil loss?

  3. Yeah, Great. Now how did you do it? You guys have me freaking out now LOL. I just put all this money into lifting my 02', and now i hear the engine could blow. Good grief. Could you post some details please? What year/model was your truck. It's interesting that you found locktite. I'm sorry i can't offer you any help with your oil consumption problem. It's either burning, which it dosen't appear to be (no smoke) or leaking somewhere. If not on the ground, then into your system. thanks for any light you can shed.

     

    Pete

     

     

    2001 pathfinder , just emailed navygz19 with the procedure on how to do , email him for a copy of it , and Ill try to post later, ( running late for work at the moment). Was a very easy , straight forward and not technical procedure, do not be overwhelmed---and gives PEACE OF MIND when done. The oil prob appears to be a design flaw in the valve cover baffles that trap oil and allow it to be siphoned out the PCV , only fix is to install valve cover that has different baffle it appears.

  4. Yeah, Jarsiff did it a few weeks ago, maybe he could write some sort of a procedure for this...

     

     

    Well couldnt wait any longer, was sweating bullets on this one , so I went out and took the plunge and locktited all the power valve screws, wasnt too bad a job actually, took about 1 1/2 hours to do, feel loads better, all the screws were tight , and seemed to have some kind of thread lock on the threads already, I am assuming it was from the factory because it does not appear that the intake and surrounding paraphanelia has ever been took off before. But now I know for SURE that they are all tight and with thread locker!! Now to figure out how to resolve my oil consumption problem.

  5. I let the engine warm up , then shut off and maybe 2-3 minutes after shut off checked engine oil.

     

     

    Doing some research, looks like the 3500 has a issue of burning around a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so, the issue seems to be in the design of the valve cover that has the PCV valve, the baffles in the cover trap oil and create a venturi effect with the PCV valve and suck the oil out . Looks like the only remedy is to find a valve cover that has different design of the baffles and install it. Ugh!!

  6. Stupid question, but the engine wasn't running, was it? If it was off, how long before you checked the oil? Remember, it takes a while for all the oil to end up back in the pan to properly check the level.

     

     

    I let the engine warm up , then shut off and maybe 2-3 minutes after shut off checked engine oil.

  7. Reading through the owners manual says should use 91 octane or higher for the 3.5 in my 01 pathfinder, didnt realize this, have ran a tank of 87 octane through it already with no noticeable problems or spark knock---is it absolutely vital and necessary to run premium through these things?, what is the risk if I do not ?

  8. Thats what came to my mind--either the torque converter or bands--but the strange thing is it will operate for the first few minutes after starting vehicle, but after that it will be completely immobile, but I could shut it off and immeaditly fire it back up and it will operate again for a few minutes and then will become immobile again.

     

     

    Problem fixed!! Brother tore into it last night --- just a plugged filter, put all back together and works fine, glad it was something simple, anyways FYI for some one else who may experience a similar prob.

  9. Thanks for all the info guys, this forum is great compared to some of the other forums I have been on, and yes I already bought some belts and gonna do all the fluids/filters as soon as I can. Oh and Spasibo Terrano.

  10. A friend of mine had a 2001, and even with the throttle pinned, it shifted very smoothly at all times. Remember, you're 10 years newer.....the vehicle is far more refined than it's older version.

     

    Oh, and on the "passing gear" it's dropping into 2nd. In 3rd, your gear ratio is 1:1, with 4th being overdrive. So yes, 2nd gear the RPMs should rise faster than the speedo.

    Well thank you Simon for your prompt and reassuring replies, makes me feel a world better!!!!!

  11. Not a whole bunch showing up as real problem areas on those yet. They're too new! Congrats on the purchase. :beer:

     

    The only thing is the rear control arm bushings that have a tendency to wear out quickly, giving you a wobble/loose feeling on the highway. Either you can replace the bushings, or the arms themselves.

     

    The only other complaint I've heard of from late R50 owners is the BOSE stereo dying prematurely. Not a huge issue by any means.

    I was curious about something else I noticed too, when you really gun the motor the transmission doesnt seem to slam into gear, it shifts very smoothly, especially when shifting into passing gear on the highway, is this transmission known for being very smooth, when it does go into passing gear the RPM's seem to rise faster than the speedo--is this normal ? Am I too used to the older auto transmission which was a bit harsh shifting ? Maybe Im being to paranoid that the tranny is shot and is slipping

  12. My trusty ol 91 Pathy finally bit the dust (tranny grenaded) its seen some hard miles and I retired it to my brother, but I picked up a 2001 Pathy with 54,000 on the clock. Can anyone tell me any particular pros/cons about this particular model , things to look for ?

  13. Something either broke or stripped out. I've heard of one person experiencing a stripped-out torque converter being their problem. It could also be completely internal, I can't tell from here.

     

     

    Thats what came to my mind--either the torque converter or bands--but the strange thing is it will operate for the first few minutes after starting vehicle, but after that it will be completely immobile, but I could shut it off and immeaditly fire it back up and it will operate again for a few minutes and then will become immobile again.

  14. Today the wife was driving the pathfinder and she went to take off and the automatic transmission made a whirring noise and then it stopped and the rig would not move, I came and fired it up , put it in drive and it makes a very distinct whirring noise but would move when put in drive or reverse, but after about 2-3 minutes the vehicle stops making the whirring noise and then will not move when put in drive or reverse. So I shut off the rig and fire it up and the whirring noise occurs and the rig will move when put in drive , but after about 2-3 minutes the whirring noise will stop and im dead in the water again.-------what is going on here??

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