McFalconPunch
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Posts posted by McFalconPunch
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It is the same as Valvoline i believe. Check on bobistheoilguy forums if it is compatible with the Nissan fluid
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The rears are on! Had to cut off the sway bar links (lucky I had new). The fronts will go on tomorrow morning.
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+1 on belts and pulleys. I got Acdelco pulleys off Amazon for a lot cheaper than your local auto parts store and Gatorback belts for $20 for both off eBay. The bearings in my pulleys were completely shot at 150k.
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You're probably right about that leaking under load. I know mine is wet, but I never see a spot on my driveway or at work. I know some people have just tightened it and that fixed their problems. The parts are cheap enough and if you can change an oil filter, you can change the seals on the oil cooler.
I've owned an RX7 so im no stranger to adding oil. I just buy 2 5 quart jugs and add as needed. I have about 3.5 quarts left in the second jug with 1500 miles to go until I change my oil.
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The rear brake line is part # BHA381108, which is off a 98 Frontier. Its close to 21 inches while ours is 16 or 17 inches. Rear shocks, at least for Bilstein 5100's are 33-185552.
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I would like to hear more about the oil cooler replacement. I am in a very similar situation (that's what brought me to this board, actually.)
2002 R50, 5 speed manual. Went to fill with gas on Sunday - dipstick was bone dry! Added 2 quarts to bring it up to full.
No trace of smoke from the engine and no indication of leaks (we have a new house and I park in the driveway - if there were leaks I would know because my wife would be giving me hell for dripping oil in our new driveway!)
I've done a lot of googling and have have heard multiple possible reasons including bad piston rings, something to do with the catalytic converters, etc, but I think your post is the first one I've seen where somebody did something that actually fixed the problem.
Where is the oil cooler located? And how difficult was it to replace?
Thanks in advance!
http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/142468-2001-pathfinder-odd-oil-leak-pics.html#post1251310
I think I paid $15 for both seals at my local Nissan dealer, theres a "kit" on ebay for $12. I need to do mine also, but it can wait until I change the oil again. I don't think its the cause of my oil loss, because there are no spots on my driveway or parking spot at work.
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BHA381108What part number did you order? Is this the rear center hose that you replace? I just rounded up all my parts for my lift this weekend and I think the brake line is my final piece, I went with OME Medium and 1in spacers and Bilsteins as well.
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My dipstick is dry around 1500 miles. What I have been doing is just buying 2 of those 5 quart jugs of oil and just adding as needed. Having owned a RX7 at one point in my life, oil usage is not a big deal for me.
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In my opinion it sits a little high, but in the summer I tow a trailer and camp a lot, and it rides level with a heavy load, do I like it.
Exactly what I want! It will probably all be put on this weekend weather permitting and if my son decides he wants to be born.
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It's all good. If it sits too high, I'll just take out a spacerYou're absolutely right. I could have sworn it was 1.75 but I was wrong. Apologies for the confusion
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Ive run that setup. OME MD springs are rated for 1.75" of lift, not .5" or .75".
While your shocks will limit your travel I would still suggest getting the brake line. Its a cheap part. 12 bucks from Autozone or O'Reillys and its a direct fit.
I saw your build thread, I guess I will just put one in and go from there! Thanks for your help.
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On their website, it says the OME 2922 is a .50 to .75 lift for the rear, or am i missing something?
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Ive run that setup. OME MD springs are rated for 1.75" of lift, not .5" or .75".
While your shocks will limit your travel I would still suggest getting the brake line. Its a cheap part. 12 bucks from Autozone or O'Reillys and its a direct fit.
I haven't yet, since I'm still running stock shocks so the range of motion is the same as it was when it rolled out of the factory. I probably will when I get new shocks, more to be safe rather than sorry. It wasn't very expensive, I just don't feel like bleeding the brakes.
Already got it ordered just in case from Advance! $12 - TRT30 = $8.40, Cheap insurance. I ordered a pair of Bilstein 33-185552 (5100's) whenever I do all of this so it will be needed. Thanks guys!
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Also, did you have to install the D22 Frontier brake line for the rear?
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I have that setup. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
I found your build thread, Thanks anyways! That's what I was expecting, I like it!
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Sorry to start another topic on lifts, but I could not find an answer or anyone with the same setup.
I bought a set of 2 inch front spacers second hand because I thought I would be saving money. It was honestly my fault because my mind put 2 inch spacers and 2 inches of lift as the same thing. So now i'm working with a 2.5 inch lift for the front. Struts and shocks are new, but stock.
As for the rear, I bought new 2 inch spacers from Steve. I also bought OME MD (Medium Duty) springs for the rear. From my understanding the springs alone will raise the rear .5 - .75 inches.
Im totally okay with the rear sticking up 1/4 of an inch higher than the front.
So is this setup okay? Anyone have any pictures of the amount of lift i will be expecting?
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Looks good! I've been on the fence about wheel spacers but this may have convinced me.
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I got it off eBay with all the wiring which was of good quality.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0UlapB2TUY
Video of my drive home (If I take the back route) I have 4 of these stream, or small river depending if it rains, crossings I have to go through.
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I used locktite on the rack, I check it every once and a while and its still doing good!
I did change out the bulbs for the dash and HVAC controls about a month ago. Haven't posted any updates because of work and my wife being very, very pregnant. I also put in an aftermarket stereo (Kenwood KDC-X500) to work with the existing Bose system. You just gotta make sure it has 4v outputs. It sounds alright, better than stock and now I have bluetooth connectivity.
Bonus pic of the switch for the LED light bar. I wasn't paying attention and accidentally rubbed the side of the trim panel with my dremel.
I also changed out the belts and pulleys. I felt the belts could look worse for being 14 years old. The bearings in both the pulleys were both shot. I replaced them with Gatorbacks and ACDelco pulleys.
I did install my CB radio (Uniden Bearcat 880) that I had laying around along with a 3ft Firestik with hatch mount. I will post pics of that after I button everything up and tune the radio, probably sometime later this week.
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Mine did the same thing for a while. I changed the fuel pressure regulator and dampener to no avail. I finally cleaned the throttle body real good (both in and out) and the issue went away.
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A couple hours. I live in the Wayne National Forest along the Ohio River.
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Mansfield/Columbus areas. Just moved back from Florida...don't ask why.
Usually its the other way around lol. I camp at pretty much every event at the Mid Ohio Sports Car Course so i'm familiar with the area.
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NAPA Generic ATF 2001 Pathfinder
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Mine did that when I first got it. I ran some Seafoam Transtune in it, then drained the fluid 500 miles later. Refilled with Castrol Import ATF. No issues since.