Gyropath

The booster referred to is my battery charger/booster. Used it a few times to get er turning faster. Haven't tried direct starter hook up yet. Been sidetracked with work and hunting, but did try tapping on multiple relays under-hood, as son held key in start position, without any luck. I also remember somebody had converted my earlier 95 to a push-button start, but never investigated as to why.

Sounds exactly like mine except my TPS seems to be working fine

I've heard of too many guys replacing the starter, and then finding out it wasn't the starter, to rush into it. Patience is a virtue! And saves money. Seems like an oil change is coming if I want to get at those starter connections-sure won't hurt it.

Jacked er up to have a look under the truck-the starter is not in a real friendly location. I opened wire shielding down below at frame and poked a test light into the main power cable, got light. Got light in black/pink wire when key in start position. Battery showed 11.8 when I checked it earlier. A booster makes no difference. Looks like I need to remove the oil filter to get to the actual starter connections. Feels like there may be some type of fusible link or such up behind the oil filter? It seem this truck may have had a remote starter on it at some time (little sticker says so), so my hope is that is not having any affect on the problems. Any ideas short of pulling the oil filter to access the connections?

Ok guys- what most likely went wrong today with my truck? Started it and it ran as typical for maybe 30 seconds. After it died, it would not even turnover, no starter click, nothing. Power is fine, lights work, dash lights, etc. I have had starter turning over for extended periods at times in this process and thinking it's been hard on the starter, but wondering if there would be a relay, or fuse that would likely burn out first. Checked the battery ground and 2 strap ground cables. The ignition switch was replaced awhile back when it locked up so thinking its not a likely culprit. Anybody have time saving advice for this issue?

Wow! Local influence here. Added to the check list. Got some space now in my upgraded tool cabinet too.

Good to hear from a local! Although I haven't tested the pressure, I don't think it's a problem-the truck will run for awhile, and actually seems to flood. Got the replacement distributor today and after I try the temp sensor test, will do the swap. Soon as time permits!

Interesting information! My thought process understood how the MAF, TPS, and crank position sensors would affect the immediate start up idle and could cause it to choke and die quickly, but hadn't thought the Temp or O2 sensors would have any affect unless the engine actually started warming. I think the record idling period has been maybe 3 minutes max at this point, until it starts to sputter and die. Will hafta try er without the temp sensor connected soon.

Just curious: would any of the sensors affect the idle / acceleration if it won't run long enough to actually change engine operating temperature?

There are no stored codes, which may be due to replacing battery earlier, and the truck hasn't run long enough since. The TPS seems ok- started at .36 went to 3.94 and as I accelerated and returned back to start. O2 wire made no difference.

Having owned many various "project" American trucks and cars over the years, this will be the first truck that I have considered replacing the distributor in. It seems a logical path here, as the water pump had blown out earlier and so the timing belt etc were replaced. Old electrical systems are always a pain to deal with, but I have noticed some of these connectors are unique. A side note: winter arrived yesterday afternoon in Minnesota! Heat required in shop from here on!

Wow! Thank you! Was doing some research also, and with your post I will check it out tomorrow.

I will check for codes again for current status, and unplug the osw. How would I test for TPS malfunction?

Ya the cat is gone and no rat in the air box. I also removed the muffler at one point to see if that had plugged. There may have been a code referring to the crank angle sensor if I remember correctly, that led me to replace it. This is great to hear from you guys that know these trucks-seems like local dealer mechanics are clueless discussing older rigs.

Inner area of distributor is clean, but I replaced cap, rotor, crank angle sensor, awhile back in the diagnostic process. Purchased a used distributor on EBay now so I'll try that when it gets here. Found an earlier discussion about a truck with similar issues that resulted in "distributor " cure, but not sure if that meant he replaced it. Likewise, I have not experienced gas "too old to burn" in a vehicle before, but this time I have begun to wonder.