Mountainman63
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Posts posted by Mountainman63
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I just put in a Denso and the fit was perfect. Been in three weeks now and no problems at all. It was well packed. It does not come with a cap so hang on to yours or order a new one. Looks exactly like the OEM.
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They are by Husky Liners called "Long Johns" , got them at Real Truck on line. $40.00 a pair. They screw into the inner fender lip with self tapping screws.
I them trimmed them to my liking.
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It was an O2 sensor on mine. Also the EVAP system fuel venting even a bad gas cap can cause strange codes on these vehicles. Good luck.
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Nice, welcome! what wheels? any spacers? rubbing issues? More pics? Here's my 97 SE
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I wanted something different than the normal, I think I got it.
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Thanks
Here's a better shot of them and the links. The tails were also available in black
clear turn signals& clear corner lights/markers $75.00 @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/301958750641?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
euro? tail lights $70.00 @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/371590017608?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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97 SE -
lifted with Old Man Emu struts with Fleury's spacers on top and OME medium duty springs
OME Nitrocharger rear shocks and OME medium duty springs
factory flares removed/replaced
inner wheel well liners reshaped with heat gun
camber adjustment bolts up front
Mickey Thompson wheels 15 x 8 (3.62 backspace)
Dick Cepek tires 31 x 10.50 x 15
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CONSIDER WHEELS WITH 3.75" BACKSPACE, IT SOLVES THE STRUT CLEARANCE ISSUE BUT CAN CREATE RUBBING IN THE FRONT WHEEL WELL DEPENDING ON TIRE VARIANCES AND SPLASH GUARD FITMENT. MY 15X7" STOCK WHEELS WITH 1.5" SPACERS CLEARED ALL AROUND WITH 31 X 10.5 X 15 TIRES. MY NEW 15 X 8 WHEELS WITH 3.62 BACKSPACE AND NO SPACERS CAUSED A SLIGHT RUB AT FULL LOCK. I USED A HEAT GUN TO RESHAPE THE INNER SPLASH LINERS AND SOLVED THE PROBLEM. 3.75 BACKSPACE IS THE MAGIC NUMBER ON THE R50
I WOULD LOVE TO RUN 35'S BUT HERE ON EARTH IT JUST ISN'T GONNA HAPPEN. 33'S CAN BE DONE BUT I OPTED NOT TO DO SURGERY ON ME 97, IT DOES FINE ON THE 31'S AND MY SPEEDO IS STILL DEAD ON.
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Even had a hood scoop at one time.
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About a year ago it looked like this
and here it was when I bought it
and now it is this beast -
I've been through all that too. Spend the money. If you have a lift your camber will need set. There is no caster adjustment on an R50. Tie rods will adjust toe in/out and also determine steering wheel position. I got mine really close on the slick concrete of the garage floor using strings run along side the tires on each side, that is the toe in out and steering wheel position but the camber was already set from a previous shop. I made adjustments with the truck on the ground then drove it, then repeated until it felt correct but I still ended up taking it in a month later because a slight pull to the right I just couldn't solve.
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Old Man Emu springs, struts and shocks. Fleury's 1.5 spacer on top of the struts. 15 x 8 Mickey Thompson wheels (3.62 backspace) 31 x 10.50 x 15 Dick Cepek wheels. No rubbing, nothing cut in wheel wells. Stock flares replaced with husky liner Long John flare/flaps. Stainless #14 x 3/4" sheet metal screws used to fill factory flare holes in fenders. All other steering and suspension on the truck has been replaced with OEM Nissan parts and it drives like new. The lock-out hubs keep it all fresh for when I need it. A rear locker and a winch bumper are next. So far I cannot locate a bumper.
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Some more randoms of the 97 Pathfinder:
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Here's my 97 SE
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Extended Rancho vs ProComp vs KYB vs Bilstein strusts and shocks.
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I run Old Man Emu medium duty springs and their nitrocharger shocks and struts. I do have a Fleury's spacer on top of the struts for a level look. I have plenty of lift with it, at least for me, and I still get plenty of travel and flex. The ride is superb. ARB makes some nice stuff. I removed the rear sway bar but have not removed the front as of yet.