Texasledfarmer
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Posts posted by Texasledfarmer
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I was thinking about blue or green lighting... not sure which will look better
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I sent him a message... hopefully he responds
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I figure that the 360 one's would light around the whole area without the Hot Spot issue but I'm not 100% on it. Also the lumens, I'm guessing, would have a lot to do with it.
This is the only post that I've found regarding the swap http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39445-switched-out-dash-lights/?p=743968
kev9180 said that he used 4 194 LED bulbs with a 120 degree angle.
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Well I fixed some of the issues. The dash lights are up and running and my dimmer works as well. Apparently those issues were attributed to the turn signal switch being bad. So now my dash is all lit up but still no functioning temp gauge. I'll install the regulator this weekend.
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Anyone?
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I've read some old posts about members changing out they're OE dash lights for LED's. One post I saw the member used 194 LED's that were 120 degrees. So I looked at Superbrightleds.com for some options but unfortunately I now have more questions than before
.How many lumens would be enough to light the dash without blinding me?
Will the tower ones fit or only the mini's?
What is the best beam angle to use... (depending on the style) 360, 220,120 or 90 degrees?
Do I need just the retrofit with socket?
How many bulbs does the cluster require?
I've tried to find this info on old posts but couldn't come up with anything solid. Or at least I couldn't find anything that answered my questions. There may be a post that explains all of this but I couldn't locate one. I really don't want to start ordering lights without knowing what works and what doesn't. I'm going to replace the regulator on the back of the cluster so I figure I might as well brighten things up.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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I had not seen that one!
Thanx! It seems simple enough... I hope that this solves my dash issues.
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I found plenty Aftermarket regulators... cheap! For the $2.00 it's more than worth a shot.
Now how do I know which wire is the
Ignition, Ground and 8 volt output on the aftermarket?
And does anybody know the colors on the OE module so I don't mix the Ignition wire and the 8 volt output?
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Oddly enough...my gauges have issues. Temp and fuel are dead or barley move and last night I replaced my turn signal switch cuz my headlights were spazzing out. I hadn't been using my Pathfinder at night because of this so I just noticed that my dash lights don't work. Not a good thing when you can't tell how fast your going. So the regulator is starting to sound like the true culprit of my gauge woes. So now here's new set of questions...
HOW MUCH?
WHERE CAN I GET IT?
IS IT A PAIN IN TO INSTALL?
If I was going to buy a temp gauge (with the adapter for the upper hose/sensor) I'd be looking at about $100. If the regulator is around the same price range I'd rather get the regulator.
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Now the adapters would just go screwed in the where the high and low side goes. But are the original ports just screwed on? I took a quick look during lunch and I can't tell if it's part of the line assembly or if it just goes screwed in? I appreciate the help guys
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Plus I've heard that R12 blows colder... but I don't know how much truth there is behind that.
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My 1990 Pathfinder still uses R12 gas. Never paid attention to it since I never had an issue with the AC. Its been cooling less and less these past few months. After checking the level it turns out its short about 1.5 cans. I have access to R12 so that's not a problem. The question... is it worth keeping it as oppose to the readily avilable R134a? If I do the coversion... what has to be changed other than the ports and a system vacuum? I don't even know if the high and low ports are permanently fixed to the lines. If they are... that means a new hose assembly plus the vacuum and recovery. All this sounds like more $$$$ than cents. So is it cheaper to keep the R12?
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I appreciate the help guys. I've got lots of things to fix on my wife and I's pathfinder but the temp gauge is the highest priority.
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Well that's the problem right there! The sensor is there but the wire had been cut by the previous owner. For what reason, your guess is as good as mine. SO obviously the gauge isn't working. Now I tried to located the severed wire that runs to the dash but I've had no luck. So I've got to remove the cluster to get to back of the gauge... how the hell does it go wired? Also, if the dash is fried for some reason, can I use the O.E sending unit with an aftermarket temp gauge?
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Any help would be much appreciated. Thanx in advance
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Can anyone tell me if I can use an aftermarket temp gauge for my 1990 pathy? My dashboard isn't working correctly and I happen to have a mechanical temp gauge I want to use.
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I know of ppl that own diesel's that use ATF fluid to clean their fuel system but I never knew you could use it on gas
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I just cleaned out my throttle body and I actually flooded the engine
. I let it sit for more than a day then smashed down the accelerator and cranked it. It turned on, but like Curt, my Pathfinder was blowing thick nasty smoke. After a while the smoke cleared and it accelerates better than before. Would anyone know if changing the fuel pressure regulator will help restore performance? I use to work at O'Reilly Auto Parts and Sea Foam has given us a demo as to how it would work. They used that stuff on everything from throttle body's, as engine oil & fuel additives and even on a lawnmower. It's suppose to help clean o2 sensors as well (at least that's what we were told). I haven't used it on my Pathy but I think I'll buy some and give it a whirl this weekend. I now work at a GM dealership (Cadillac, Buick, GMC) so I think I'm gonna have one of the Tech's use the machine to flush my injectors. I figure it could use both cleanings after nearly 300K miles. -
I used a throttle body cleaner made by CRC. I cranked it up and it started last night. Alot of smoke came out but it worked. I gave it a 5 mile run and it runs fine but when it's been off for about 30 mins the smoke comes back once cranked again. I just gotta run it and I'm sure it'll go away. I need to change the o2 sensors... maybe that'll help with the crappie cold starts. I had read on one of the posts that someone changed injectors and it restored the performance. I think it'll be a great idea cuz almost 300 miles have surely created some horrid build up. Any ideas where to get cheap injectors?
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No go on starting it up. I think I'm gonna have to take off the plugs and clean them up. If that doesn't work I haven't a clue.
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I cleaned out te throttle body which was loaded with 300 miles of crap but how I was doing it by my self I couldn't spray and crank at the same time. Now it won't turn on! Any suggestions?
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I cleaned out te throttle body which was loaded with 300 miles of crap but how I was doing it by my self I couldn't spray and crank at the same time. Now it won't turn on! Any suggestions?
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Thanx I'll do just that. I'm gonna install a new exhaust manifold(on the passenger side of coarse) this weekend so I'm going to soak the hell outa the manifold bolds tonight...Though I'm sure some are gonna break off. I'm tires of hearing that annoying exhaust leak. It's making my V6 sound like a riding lawn mower.
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If anyone has a diagram of the area around the shifter or shifter boot I would appreciate you sharing it.
Worth it? Body lift cranked bars and rear lift springs
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Has anyone used a body lift, cranked torsion bars and rear lift springs all at once? I've read about lots of combinations but can't find anything on all 3 at once. I don't know if it's worth it or how bad the ride will feel. I have the body lift and I can surely crank the bars but is it worth having the springs as well?
Any I'm put is much appreciated.