KutSnake

Hi guys, I have a mystery problem with my engine. When it starts and I drive for a little bit it is great. Then after a few kilometres it starts missing on acceleration until the turbo opens up. Also there is a rattle/knock that hangs around occasionally in the lower rpm range. It also blows blue smoke on heavy acceleration. The motor was rebuilt about 14000K's ago. It doesn't lack power much but the diesel pump after its rebuild seems to be out of sync or something. Can anyone help me here online with a diagnostics check? There is oil in the intake also. The turbo was rebuilt at the same time. Could the oil be from the return valve in the crank case? Or the throttle body? Or turbo? I feel this is the problem to my miss firing but not sure. Any views?

Hi All, Here's a link to get a free download of the terrano, pathfinder and navara workshop manual complete with diagnostics charts and alsorts. www.kut-snake.com/d21-nissan-navara.html Down the bottom of the page just under all the credit card symbols is the link. It's in pdf format. Pretty sick to have a full workshop manual on my phone now. Gotta love the future sometimes! It's also a great site to get mad looking flares for your wd21 beast. I got them and friggin' love Em! Cause I got a big Kut Snake logo down the side of my truck they even sent me a free snorkel. Now I'm hitting bog holes that cave my bonnet in! (anyone got a solution for this!?!? Anyway, long live the humble terrano, I've been a convert since a year ago. My baby's cost me over $7000 in rebuilds and the like but I'm now starting to see why it's best to build not buy!

Thanks Silverton, I think I will return it to exchange to an electrical one. Hopefully the Speco Street series do an electrical one. Time to google!

Hi Guys, I recently became frustrated about having to wait for my turbo timer to stop the engine before I was able to remove the key. On removing the steering column housing you will see the little button in question. My fix for being able to remove the key whenever I turn it to the off position is to zip tie the little leaver about 10mm above the button to the "up" or "release" position. It worked effectively. No need to cut wires or replace ignition switches etc. Yes, you still need to push the button to remove the key but you don't have to wait for the engine to stop before doing this. Very handy fix if you have a turbo timer!

Just wondering how to get the tube through the firewall? I drive a 1990 2.7td and the doesn't seem to be any spare grommets. Can/should I drill a new one? Any thoughts would be appreciated.