glenn
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Posts posted by glenn
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A few days ago I went into an americas tire store comparing prices, I also found some wheels. I have 31"s and 15" rims. But when I went to talk to the guy at the counter he told me that they make almost no wheels in a 15". He told me that I should go with a 16" wheel and a set of p265 tires. he claimed that they are the same size tire, they just have a bigger hole for the wheel. So is he telling the truth, or was he just trying to sell me stuff. Also, I have looked other places, and there does seem to be preference towards 16" wheels?
Thanks, Trenton
I have 15 " rims and do fine with them [GY 32x11s]. There are many tires available for them. It is true that the selection for 16" is more plentiful. I wouldn't spend the money on new rims and would instead put it into the tires. Go to the TIRERACK website and do a search. You will see what your options are.Good luck ! - glenn
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I plan on going on some side trips on dirt roads, mostly to Racetrack Playa and possibly Eureka Sand Dunes.
If you go from road to racetrack and then back to road you'll be fine.From racetrack out the back , over the mountain to Patamint side and highway is where I had trouble,
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Been there a few times. It depends what you do, as was said. If you stay near main road and only go off ways a little you'll be fine. One trip I went out of valley via backroad and thrashed my tranny pan. It was leaking [slowly thankfully] for next 200 miles home. Had to stop at gas station every 50 miles and tansfuse fresh transmission fluid to keep reservoir full. After that I got skid plates from front all the way back to drive shft - no problems on many trips since !
Good Luck
glenn
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There are all sorts of battery powered LED lights that would probably work well for this. Some have stick-on adhesive , some mount with a couple of screws. Check Home Depot.
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Agree completely with everyone else. Have you also checked to see if it is something as simple as tires rubbing ? My 32s made the same sound until I trimmed the wheel wells.
Good luck ! -
REMEMBER
nissan spec... for shims is 3/8" max and this is a number I would not fool arround with. maybe go 1/2" on one if all the others are within 3/8"
Shims... easy to install to get it right, easy to fall out after some abuse allowing to the spinlde to batter the bolt which batters the threads on the frame.
Washers... Once alginged with shims(get done quicker) use the same thickeness in washers. Start by using HARDENED Wasehers then regular thin 1 or 2 to get it exact. the hardened washers will not compress or deform so your bolt stays tight for longer.
Bolts... the stock bolt is a 55mm pilot tip (also called body bolt) this means the last ~5mm of the bolt are narrowed and not threaded. A regular cut 60mm bolt will therefore give you 10mm more threads and is safely useable. 65mm or longer will bottom out on the frame if minimal shims are used. The use of 10.9 (grade 8 equiv) is contraversial for reasons I will not list in this quick tip but I will say that I use them and I think they are good.
Torque... once your washers are in torqe to 75-100 fltlbs. The spec is 80-108 but also consider shims give more than wahsers and hardend washers do not give at all.
Check these bolts at least every oil change esp if you are right @ 3/8" or wheel your pathy.
Happened to me ; loose shims [ didn't know they were loose] , bolt torqued right out of frame, stripping threads. Caused alot of damage,
had to have repair to frame [ $$$] -
Hello ! 1 had 2 thoughts about this .
I've had the shims pop loose after a while,but once I changed to washers I have not [obviously] had any come loose
Also , the alignment on my old 1990 has always been tough to balance, and the only people who knew the vehicle well enough to get it right was the Nissan stealership. Several other places tried and they could never get it right.Good luck !
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Negative wire to the negative terminal, positive wire to the positive terminal. And you'll probably want to run an inline fuse just "up-wire" from the pos terminal of the battery.
This is critical ! When wiring directly off battery, You must put an inline fuse as close to battery + terminal as possible. If you put the fuse close to the outlet , and wires happen to short for whatever reason before the fuse, you could easily have a massive fire and die
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Maybe it would be easier to move to Southern California. It's summer here all year long. I only have one set of tires!
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Needle nose vice grips and a rag will pinch off fuel lines perfectly, but do relieve the pressure first.
B
Thanks much everybody !
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Anybody ? THANKS MUCH ! Glenn
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I have auto and really like it. You can still gear down plenty to auto 1 and transfer case low if you need to. I can't say that any problems I have had were due to the tranny or gearing.
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Maybe it depends what conditions you'll be in. In S.Cal deserts I use my lockers everytime. I only had to use my winch once.
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You know , for a few hundred more you can get an ARB bumper. Mine is great and VERY well made. It might be worth saving up and spending the extra money
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Took the truck for an alignment today after getting it running etc.
Techs said they couldn't do it as it required 2.5 INCHES of shims between the A-arm and frame.
That is a whole lot of shims. Does that even seem possible that it would require that?
seems likes a lot . mine took 3/4 " and I thought that was alot ! is something bent causing such a miss alignment ? maybe you need to try a different tech. go to nissan dealer , costs more but they know the vehicle and should be able to do it or at least tell you what's going on . Good Luck !
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I had a sound like that when backing out of driveway , which is down hill, and then turning. It turned out that with the steering turned AND the suspension compressed the tires were rubbing. If you have tire >31" you might want to check this and if needed trim your wheel well fenders. Good LUCK !
glenn
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only 80k
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Think of problem with steering likage and worn bushings/ pins.Put Pathy up on lift , pull on front wheels, if there's a lot of play from in - out -in then somethings probably worn
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I have the kragen 7 inch HIDs for $100 each, They've done well for 2 yeras now.
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I have had JWT "Pop charger" cone oiled clothe filter for years, no problems at all, although I did replace it rather then recharge it to avoid over oiling and risk fouling the MAF
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well, I have ARB front lockers and Warn manual hubs and all were engaged/locked when this occured. Any other ideas ?
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well, neither wheel was moving in front on 4HI. I had front lockers engaged so I would have expected both to spin equally; neither spun at all until I went into 4LO.
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Hard to answer; I know when I was stuck, the rears were spinning and the fronts were not turning [until I put it in 4LO];At speed, while moving, I can't tell if fronts were getting power or not.Any ideas ?
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While off -roading last week I noticed that front wheels wouldn't turn in 4HI, but did turn in 4LO. Dash board indicator light showed it as engaged and the shift into 4HI felt normal. Any ideas ? THANKS ! - glenn
4WD not working - need help!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Some quick thoughts:
So the power goes thru the transfer case , then to front drive shaft, then to front diff , then to CV axel ,then to wheel hub. All this is probably pretty obvious to you. I would get to a garage and have the truck lifted so you can see underneath[i would NOT do this on stands/jacks in your garage because it would be too dangerous]Lock the hubs, run the engine, engage the 4WD , and see what turns. If front drive shaft turns , so far so good , if cv axel turns then it's probably the hubs. Guessing by what you describe my money is on the CV joints , but you'll have to just see. This would be one way you could trace out the problem to diagnose and make proper repairs. Good Luck!
glenn