tbone
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Posts posted by tbone
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Heat !!!
put it in the oven, get it nice and hot, then try and remove it.
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Mine ended up being a bad wire betweeen the ignition switch and the starter..
do a search on starter issues and the jumper thread should pop up.
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Well im definitely going to need a new pulley...the front two pieces pulled off of the back one, but now i cant figure out how to get the back one off, it is STUCK on there. For that one, I tried using a 3 jaw pulley puller I have, the middle spindle was pushing so hard, that it started to cut and thread into the crankshaft itself rather then pull off the pulley...Anyone have a clue what I can possibly due? Its not even like I can just put it back together and drive it til it dies, the pulley is seperated in two...so until i get this off and the new one on there its useless. Makes me pissed I even attempted to start this, since I got the car for free and it ran before. I figured id be smart and put in the extra work, and prolong its life, little did I know this rusted POS wants to give me hell with EVEYTHING..sorry if I sound like an asshole, i've spent so many hours on this its ridiculous, im just really frustrated, mostly with myself for even starting to do this...If I get everything done and get the timing wrong, I just may go crazy...haha
at this point your going to have to ad some heat to get that pulley off. Small butane torch woud work i bet.
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Were you using GOOD oil filters with anti-drainback valves?
I was using Purolator's, but that didn't matter for me as I had mounted the filter housing at a point lower than where the adaptor screwed onto the block.
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I was never happy with how long it took for oil pressure to build with dual filter remote setup. I could hear the lifters tapping for a second or two before they would get oil pressure. Put a stock filter back on, and had the oil light go out immediately after sitting overnight. Maybe on a modified engine with a high volume oil pump this might make more sense.
I just need to pull the front wheel to change the filter from now on...
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I didn't unbolt the pahhard bar either.
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Installed the ES3000's last night. Now I'll say that I had put new shocks on my Pathy less than 10,000 miles ago, but they were the cheap (Brand x) yellow ones from the local parts store. I wasn't happy with the front end especially, so that's what led to the new pro comp's.
Wow !!! The shock shaft is noticeably thicker than the Brand X. I installed the stiffer urethane bushing in the lower eye of the shock (supplied with shock) . The front end sits up higher ( feels like 1/2-3/4's of an inch), the front end is much more suple over speed bumps and potholes. The only issue is now the old rear ones feel like crap...
Money well spent !
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Let us know what you think of them when you get them on. I was considering those bad boys myself. The extent of my off-roading is basically washboard dirt trails and an occasional stream. I think they should do the job. Good luck!
just ordered a set of 3000's...will report next week
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I've got a new big blue relay you can have....mine used the newer smaller one.
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I had been getting the intermitten "click" and no start from my 95'. I performed the jumper wire mod from the ignition switch (black wire with yellow stripe) to the wire coming out on the backside of the battery (black wire/pink stripe) that heads to the starter. It has started everytime since (50 times) so i'm calling it fixed !!!
Thanks for all the help ! I would have never troubleshot this issue on my own ( I had already bought a new starter and blue relay)
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Anybody else notive the oil pressure is slow to build up if it sits for a few days with the dual filter relocator installed? I even reinstalled mine to a point lower than the oil filter outlet in case the oil was running back down into the pan after it sat.
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Thanks guys...It only has 83,000 miles on it. Bought from an older guy in sunny Florida, so no rust and i swear the paint on the frame still shines.. ( had to rub that is a little..ha!)
The damn starting issue is still so intermitten that i can't troubleshoot it yet..I'll wait till the bitch flat out refuses and then I'll go from there. thanks for all the responses !
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In your picture, it's the one screwed to the inside fender all by itself on the far left.
I've been fighting the same problem on my 87 for quite a while and I think I just fixed it. On the back of the ignition lock there is a switch cap with five wires soldered to it. When you turn the key the top two should make contact an carry the 12v out to the starter solenoid. I turned it on and off a bunch until I got the "no-start" problem again. I held the key in the start position and measured the voltage across the contacts. Ends up I was only getting about 9.2v to the solenoid. I'm thinking that's not enough to make it pull, so the starter wouldn't come on.
I took the switch cap and harness off and sprayed some PB Blaster (WD-40 would prolly work too) into the switch where there's a gap, then turned it back and forth a lot with a screwdriver to clean the contacts inside the switch. I've tested it 20 or so times and it's started every time so far.
I was going to wait until after I drove it a bunch this weekend to report it as fixed, but I thought you might like to know there could be a different cause for your problem.
Thanks for the reply !!! My "big blue" is actaually a "small blue" it sems....
I'm going to dive into my ignition switch tomorrow....Thanks !!
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I have a 95 Pathy. I'm wondering if they made a production change as this is what i see...I'm trying to deal with the "sometimes it won't start" issue
Thanks,
Troy
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Just got my B&M remote tranny filter, plate trans. cooler, and transdapt dual oil filter relocation. (as I have seen others making happy pathies with these products)
But question is do I still change the standard trans. filter at the recommended time, along with the remote?
(I am at work and wife called saying it was delivered; so I haven't read any "constructions" yet; but will tonite)
Mike
I't can't hurt ,especially with how much these things cost...
Bad timing, or heads? (please say timing)
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by tbone
I've seen mechanics use propane out of a small tank to find vaccum leaks. It pulls the propane in and revs up . I think wd-40 does the same thing