daczone
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Posts posted by daczone
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I was expecting for it to be more expensive. Nice!
That's the beauty of this kit. It's inexpensive! Looks cool, works fantastic.
I removed the press the brake safety feature (in which you had to step on the brake to start or turn the motor off. Just seems unneeded. Since I have a manual you have to press in the clutch to start it, and although pressing the brake to start was no big deal, stepping on the brake to turn the motor off seemed silly.
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I've had this now for a few months and still love it. Starts up every time. It beeps at you if you leave your key in the car.
One thing I did change was I originally installed it per the instructions so I had to press the brake to start/stop. Since I have a stick which already has the starter interrupt I removed that piece so I don't have to step on the brake to start/stop.
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Okay I threw a muffler on today and got this project wrapped up... I'm going to take it in to have the axle hoop done. I ended up just putting a 2-1/4" (stock appears to be 1-3/4 ID) generic turbo muffler on it. My cat was replaced by the previous owner and it looked good. So it was reused. I also added an electric exhaust dump (I bought it a while back and had no good purpose for it, so I threw it on.) It's a bit on the loud side with the dump open, but when closed there is a nice throaty rumble to my motor now. Definitely added some power. The BUTT dyno says so. The mid range power feels very strong now, where before it was less than exciting. I'd guess this yielded a god 10% bump in power, maybe a little more.
Motor is a freshened JDM VG33e with the VG30e cams but otherwise stock, about 100 miles on it so far.
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Completed my header install today. Using the Pacesetter headers requires one of the BUNG's to be plugged, I believe this is for an air pump. My 93 doesn't have one. So you need a 24mm 1.5 thread pitch plug or bolt. I hit 3-4 autoparts stores, A quick google search and someone referenced a Audi/VW Oil plug (v8). The part # is 028103059A I paid about $12 for it.
All said I am happy with the quality of the pacesetters and glad I didn't try to wrap a set with header wrap as they are a tight fit. I had a tough time getting the crossover pipe on. Here are my install notes:
- Headers install from underneath the vehicle.
- You need to remove the front drive line as well as the mid pipe from the cat to the front of the crossover. You need the wiggle room to get the crossover pipe on.
- I used some dish soap to get the crossover pipe to SLIDE onto the headers, Without (and I tried 4-5 times) was a NO GO.
- Needed VW Oil Plug 028103059A to plug the 24mm upper bung.
- Needed to bend the EGR pipe slightly to get it in place. it may have been bent over the years. But it needs to be heated to bend it.
- Headers appear to be well made and fit perfectly on my 93 pathfinder. Motor is a VG33 and the larger studs fit the headers without any additional work.
Hope this helps someone... I wished I had found a reference, Took me about 4 hours in total once the old was removed. The old manifold on the drivers side was a tough one to remove the downpipe due to access. I ended up pulled it from the block and then removing the bolts to the downpipe by moving it around.
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I snapped 1 pic of the install.
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I got my headers yesterday and began the install. You can certain see how they should perform better over the old manifold LOG's I removed. Mine where both cracked.
Quality seems good, welds are quality but they could have provided some instruction better than unbolt and remove old and install new headers with torque specs.
Firstly It took about 5 minutes to realize they install from UNDER the vehicle. 2ndly, it is a 2 person job. I got them on but could NOT get the crossover pipe connected and the drivers side torson bar is really in the way. I also have to slide the existing exhaust back in order to have some movement of the crossover pipe.
Also my old EGR line is NOT coming off at the manifold side, so I need to get a new one. (Thinking of plugging it... but not sure if they will throw a code).
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That probably would have been my choice, but wasn't sure because of that. My headers came today, so hopefully I'll get a chance to get them installed before the weekend. I'm already looking to replace the stock muffler, but not sure which was to go. I've read I need some back pressure or I will lose torque. I'd like a little performance noise, but not crazy loud. I did buy an electronic exhaust cutout for my rig, but haven't decided if I'm going to use it.
So I'm looking at a 2.25" turbo or chambered muffler. I kinda like the Magnaflow.
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There is no fitment issue with the manual trans on the thorleys
Not sure where I got that info... I tried to confirm it and couldn't. That is good to know.
I almost went that route... Only about $100 difference between the 2.
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I realized my pathfinder VG33 swap exhaust started to get real loud, I found the culprit was a cracked manifold on the passenger side. After looking for a replacement I have decided to install a set of headers. The options seem quite limited and hopefully this thread will help someone else out.
From what I have read on this forum:
OBX Header
Pros: Cheap, Thick tubes, lifetime warranty, stainless construction
Cons: No cross over pipe, exhaust shop work required to install, questionable fitment on a non-body lifted vehicle
Pacesetter Header (Black)
Pros: Cheap, Long tube design, includes crossover, sold as a direct bolt on, 3 year warranty
Cons: Painted coating burns right off, 3 year warranty, 16 gauge steel
Pacesetter Header (W/Armor Coat)
Pros: Durable coating, Long tube design, Coating reduces heat in the engine bay, includes crossover, sold as a direct bolt on, 3 year warranty
Cons: Double the cost of 'CHEAP' (Affordable) headers, 16 gauge steel
Doug Thorley
Pros: Mid tube design, includes crossover, sold as a direct bolt on, Lifetime warranty, 14 gauge steel, coated header
Cons; Price, Questionable fitment with the 5 speed manual transmission due to hydraulic clutch.
So I decided to go with the Pacesetter w/Armor Coat. Long tube design, bolt in and includes coating. $370 to my door. I thought about doing the Black set and wrapping them with heat tape, which would have cost me about $50 to wrap both headers, So for $100 more the coating seems like a bargain.
More pics once I get them in my hands and get them installed.
I'd love to hear from anyone else that has installed a set of headers.
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I had always thought... I could shift into 4WD at any speed (Wrong?) It grinds and I actually lost a bet over this.
I know 4LO requires me to stop but I know in my old 86 Nissan 4x4 I could do it. Am I missing a step?
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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4945-headlights-performing-poorly/
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
fskc HID lights. They all look blue, and blind everyone. Every oncoming car that clearly has them I just leave my brights on. I have the relay mod done and I have a good set of halogen bulbs. I can see perfectly.
True of those that put use HID's as a replacement bulb for standard lights. True HID's in projectors focus the light. The projectors provide light cutoff that doesn't BLIND oncoming cars. I have factory HID's in my other 2 cars and love them. I have seen the BLUE ones. 5K color should be a bright white. 6K and up tend to give off a bluish color.
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Yeah no... The HID's in place of the Halogen bulbs have no cutoff. The cutoff comes from the projector lens. No amount of aiming them down will fix them. HID lights are so much better than Halogens, that is was the goal. I currently don't drive at night with this vehicle and will make it right. I'd love to be able to purchase a HID lens for the Pathfinder with 2 lights per side, but I suppose with the age of the vehicle the only thing I could do would be use a 3d printer and make my own. Anyway more work than I really care to tackle right now.
I'll post the completed project when I get my lens.
BTW the HID's have a relay to power them.
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Well I did something stupid (1st time this year I swear). I put HID bulbs in my Pathfinder. And they are REDICULOUSLY bright!!! (I haven't driven it on the road)
I thought I could get away with it, Bought a HID kit with HI/LO beams. But as you all probably know there is no CUTOFF to keep the light from blinding oncoming cars. So I've ordered a set of projector lens.
Your probably asking, why not just use the Halogens, mine simply were not bright at all.
Now the question is where to put them. I thought about buying a set of "CRYSTAL CLEAR" housings and mounting them right into the lens. But on 2nd thought I am thinking of just mounting them to the left of the headlights in the grille and using the standard headlights for off-road use. Opinions?
The kit I bought was a 55 watt AC Bi-Xeon they have a little solenoid the moves the bulb out for hi-beams. AC HID's are suppose to be better than DC, though I probably should have gone for the 35 watt version.
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The 300ZX uses a smaller MAF. I was able to use the pipe and air cleaner from that kit but had to modify it to work. Would have been easier to just but the Pathfinder kit. I also bought a Electronic cutout, but not sure if I will use it.
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Just wire a Relay. White with black strip from the IGN switch was ON in my 93.
Most newer cars use a timer for the door windows. So x number of minutes after the key is switched OFF the windows will still roll up, canceled by the door opening.
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Yes I am Lazy... You nailed it.
Well my last couple of cars were:
Suzuki Sidekick with a RX7 Turbo motor swap (standalone EFI) and NOS fed.
Nissan 350Z
Mazda Miata (Summer fun)
Ford SportTrac with a lift and big tires and THAT is the reason for the Prius.
I lifted it and put wheels and tires on it and it got 13 MPH with that horrible 4.6 liter V8
So I sold it and bought the Prius. My next car will probably be a Tesla after the Prius.
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Because for me... My other car is a Prius. At first I thought the lack of a key was the stupidist thing. I'd get the car with the keyfob in my hand and throw it into the center console only to then realize later I left my keyfob in the car. I soon realized I never needed to take the keyfob out of my pocket.
The push the key button to remove the key in the Pathfinder drove me nuts so I started looking for an alternative. For me that's why I did it.
I get crap from my coworkers for driving a Prius, but one ride and it will convence most people. Gets 50 MPG, Mine has 18" rims on it and with 98 HP gas and 36 HP electric it's pretty snappy off the line with the instant torque from the electric motor. I bought the Pathfinder for the 4WD in the winter and to haul my quads. It works for me.
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Nothing in either case (RFID starter or Pruis) It's only to START the car. Though the Prius will display KEY NOT IN CAR on the display.
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If you have seen a Prius, 3rd gen they use a battery in the keyfob and have about a 6 foot range. So the keys stay in your pocket. They don't autolock the doors but when you walk up the vehicle the interior light comes on and if you walk away from a running vehicle it beeps at you.
This system is much more primitive, It beeps when it detects the key which is a nice touch. I wired mine so that the brake must be applied to start (like the Prius).
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About $37 is what this cost to do. All of the wiring is real easy to get to. I removed my lock completely. The instructions tell you to break a key off in the ON position for the locking steering, but works better to remove it.
If you search RFID engine lock on Ebay you will find them. It will learn other RFID fobs as well. Comes with 2. It doesn't have the distance of my Prius (but the fobs aren't powered either). It beeps upon the presence of the RFid fob.
I put my sensor ring under my console, so I just lay my keys right there. I plan to add 2 cup holders and will just toss the keys into one of them.
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Yeah I thought that toggle would be ideal if it went both directions. I plan on just running the 2 wires back to a rocker in my console. The unit turns off when it gets to full extend or full retract. I actually like this idea better than the 4runner as I can leave it popped up a few inches and not have to worry about rain.
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Yes normally LED's run COOL and are low power. I'm not talking about these:
Which have a bunch of low power LEDs mounted on them.
But these (Application Headlights) ALL have fans and huge heat sinks to keep them cool:
From this angle you can see the Fans:
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I finally got around to installing this. Installation was pretty easy. 6 wires (+12, ACC, IGN, START, GROUND, and one to the brake pedal). Push once and ACC, Push again and IGN and stepping on the brake while pushing it starts the motor.
Also requires a RFID on the keyfob within range. So it won't just start for anyone.
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URGENT! My Pathy won't start :(
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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You have a bad starter relay.... VERY common pathfinder issue, About $14 at your local parts store, The relay is on your passenger fender. Try to start it and have someone touch it, it should CLICK, mine was flaky!