Leo98
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Posts posted by Leo98
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No cabin air filter in mine, I drive around with the recerculation off(green button) and only turn it on if the smell is strong, or to get the A/C colder. Try using the green button when it's bad and see if it gets better.
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I looked around on the web and it appears they don't have a fuel cut off switch.
I'm going with bad distributor.
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Just curious...Does the rig have one of those "fuel shut-offs?" Like if you rearend someone it trips the circuit and shuts the fuel delivery off to prevent fire. I didn't do any research on the subject so maybe somebody knows about it.
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Thank you, I was looking for the answer to that.
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If you want to collect the charcoal pieces to prevent them from entering the purge valve you can do this. I have had mine installed for a few months, other than emptying it a couple times it hasn't filled back up. http://imgur.com/a/OPU9Y
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They just did the filler neck? What happend was someone overfilled the gas tank and the gas leaked into the charcoal canister soaking it with gasoline, you were probably getting the p1441 code because little tiny pieces of that charcoal are getting into the evap purge control valve and preventing it from closing after a purge. So you get a code and the fumes from the stuck open valve. This is just my guess. You can follow your evap line under the hood and disconnect it somewhere near the evap port (says on the cap) and see if any charcoal comes out. If I'm right then a way to fix it is to buy a brand new charcoal canister that i think run around $200 bucks.
Edit: And stop overfilling the gas tank, stop after the click.
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I suppose you could do the bounce test first. Jump up and down about 3x on the bumper and hop off, watch to see if it keeps going by itself and if it does then no good, but if it goes up and stops quickly? i would use them.
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When you get the intake manifold off flip it over and i would replace the small coolant hose and clean the IACV.
If you get to your timing belt before I get to mine, any helpful tips and information would be appreciated.
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The '98 Pathfinders VG33E are known for bad distributors, maybe a little attention there. It's too bad you didn't bring that code P1444 charcoal canister and purge valve to the forum, i could of saved you $$$. Did a fix on mine that cost about $5.
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My '98 Pathfinder has glass.
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Here's some pics.
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_164328_zpsace60560.jpg
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_164345_zps4b39ea5b.jpg
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_165157_zpsdfdf5968.jpg
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_165047_zpsebc58b70.jpg
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_165019_zps55927e67.jpg
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj502/Leo_Beeson/IMG_20140718_165011_zps952851f4.jpg
If you look at this link it says for the BFG 30/9.5R15..."Recommended rim width is 6.5 to 8.5 inches."
http://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=836
and here's this for more information
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/name/all-terrain-t-a-ko-tires
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The rims i have are these...This is an old picture without the new tires, I will update the picture tomorrow so you can see how it looks with the 30's.
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I went out and looked at my rims and they are the 15x7JJ Aluminum that i put the 30/9.5R15's on. My spare under the Pathfinder is a 265/70R15. So now i am confused...My glove box placard says 265/70R15 but the owners book tire specs says my 4x2 LE should have 235/70R15 on 15x6.5JJ Aluminum and the XE model has the same on 15x6.5JJ steel rims...So were my rims changed by a previous owner? My spare tire rim does look different in appearance. I'm guessing they came off a SE 4x4 model. But it's the placard in the glove box that gets me, unless they changed that out too, but who does that...lol
In the end that is why those tires fit on my LE
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I have the same LE model and just replaced the 265/70R15"s with the 30/9.5R15, Those should even fit on yours too.
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My glovebox stickers also says 265/70 R15 but instead, I just bought 30/9.5 R15 B/F Goodrich's A/T at Costco for $235 a tire.
Like these here: http://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=836
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Sorry about that wording, i always disconect the battery before doing any work, i just meant to reset the check engine light to disconnect both of the cables like you are removing the battery, then hook back up and the light goes off, but will come back on if there still is a problem.
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Have a look through the service manual, i don't know where they are on this forum but here's this
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/ec.pdf
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Don't forget a few rolls of duct tape, I watched Mythbuster's Duct Tape special and you can do alot with the stuff. They built a raft with it to get off an island and another episode they built a walking bridge and lifted up a car with a crane...Check your tire pressure before you leave. Good Luck and have FUN!
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Okay, i figured it out!
So those are the boots that are bad, can i replace them and be okay?
I knew 2wd rigs didn't have front axles, but i looked through the wheel well and saw the boots then immediately thought CV...LOL oops!
sorry about the confusion.
Back to the topic...I will jack that puppy up tomorrow and make a list of what looks bad and check back with you guys for advice.
I haven't driven to Cabo yet, only to Ensenada so far. They love the Pathfinders and QX4's down here because of the rough roads and dependability. Their is an AutoZone and Napa here in Rosarito so most my parts come from those stores but i just opened a P.O. box here and now I can get stuff off the world wide web.
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Okay, i looked it up in the service manual and they are called "Drive Shafts" and so should i just put new boots on them?
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Thanks Clkindred and your Pathfinder looks like mine...same color too.
It is a 2wd and i guess they (CV's) are called "half axles?" I don't know, but the boots are shot and i haven't had any binding or noises coming from them YET! so i think i can get em cleaned up and rebooted. I have used Moog in the past on my '77 Ford 4x4 and i beat the crap out of that truck wheelin, so i know they are tough, I will probably go with those for replacements. The ball joints, i didn't know if i should replace them or not, they're not leaking any grease, so i may leave them alone. I will check into the control arm bushings and see how bad they are, because I read they are a pain to replace. I will need to repack the wheel bearings as well. I was trying to get a parts list together and thought this would be the best place to ask. Thanks again.
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Hi guys!
So i need new tires for my '98 Pathfinder 2wd with 115K miles on it. Before i can do this is need to replace/fix the front suspension, I notice on the old tires that the front end is showing a toe in problem, the tire especially on the drivers side is worn on the inside really bad, so i know i will need an alignment before new tires also. My question is what components do you suggest i replace/fix.
I have looked under the rig and noticed the CV axles need new boots, can i clean them up and just replace the grease/boots? I did it once on an 80's Scirocco when you couldn't buy them already remanufactured.
I would like to replace any bushings or ball joints too.
The roads i drive on are ROUGH! and the suspension takes a beating everyday i drive it, (except on the toll road, it's smooth) I need parts that will stand up to rough roads, so any suggestions on these suspension parts will be greatly appreciated.Thanks!
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I live South of you and i just did mine. I put it at 40 on my gauge and blows cold now.
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Check the ground attatched to the block on the drivers side. Service manual says its for the power steering oil pressure switch.
Recommended Tire pressure?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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What AT's are they? I have B/F Goodrich's A/T 30/9.5 R15 and the guy at Costco installed them and put 26 psi. going off what the door jamb and glove box stickers said. They feel like they are dragging when i drive and maybe hurting gas milage. I've never ran any tire that low, must be a mfg. reason for it.